Spindle Nut

fordlovr

fordlovr

Senior Member
How tight should I do up the large spindle nut? I realise I have to line up the hole for the cotter pin, but should I tighten or loosen nut? if you know what I mean!
 
Some folks say tighten firmly and back off 1/2 turn.
I tighten by feel with a Crescent wrench until there is zero play and install cotter pin.
You can check "play" by grabbing the tire at the top and bottom and rocking the tire.
Of course, if you have worn king pins you'll get wobble also.
 
Bryn,
have just recently done mine on the 38 PU. Did king pins also. Pulled them up tight then back a small amount just to line up split pins or slightly tighter. Regreased brgs and also did both front brake linings. Then checked whilst jacked up from free spinning before brake adjustment.
Phil NZ
 
I always tighten them down until you can't turn the wheel and then back them off until it spins freely. To me it's more of a feel than a science.
 
Many times the cotter key wants an 'in between' position, between too tight and too loose. These special spindle nuts are available to allow that 'half way' situation with 12 slots as opposed to the normal 6. Got mine at C&G about $6.
Many times the cotter key wants and 'in between' position. These special spindle nuts are available to allow that 'half way' situation. Available at C&G about $6.
 

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When dealing with none-moving parts, consider the original application. As a designer, I would specification parts at the lower end of acceptable. So, torque to the minimum and tweak up to the maximumIMHO to fit.
IMHO
 
Wheel bearings of the Timken tapered roller type aren't as critical as a set of opposing pinion bearings of the same type in a rear axle. The common way to assemble was to tighten the nut snug then back it off to the next castellation. The most important thing is to eliminate shake in the bearings but the pre-load can be light and they will be just fine. These bearings rely on grease for lubrication so they can't be a tight as a set that is bathed in gear lube.
 
Crankster said:
What does the manual say? I know, I know, crazy talk.
Click to expand...
:). I have a EFV8 Club restoration manual and an engine and chassis repair manual and niether mentions it. Its just easy to ask on here....... but I hear what you are saying, Thanks
 
fordlovr said:
:). I have a EFV8 Club restoration manual and an engine and chassis repair manual and niether mentions it. Its just easy to ask on here....... but I hear what you are saying, Thanks
Click to expand...

I didn't mean it in a bad way, simply that there was probably a procedure in the Ford manual. Maybe. If so I wonder what it was?
 
I don't have the late shoe box manual but I do have the 49 thru 51 Lincoln/Mercury manual and it states a procedure pretty much as I posted in #8. It mentions to use a 12-inch wrench and tighten the spindle nut till there is a noticeable drag on the bearings to insure they are properly seated. Back the nut off to the the next castellation then check for free rotation with no perceptible end play (shake). After that, install the cotter pin.
 
Rotorwrench
Sounds like what I was told back when Harry was the Prez.
Except it was wobble-play, not end-play (shake?)
We do have to remember that we are dealing with products produced to 10s of thousands, not hundredths or better.
You ever use two tin cans and a length of thread to talk to one another?
Times change
Technology changes.
Don't try to apply 2001 to 1934
 
Bubsyouruncle said:
We do have to remember that we are dealing with products produced to 10s of thousands, not hundredths ...
Don't try to apply 2001 to 1934
Click to expand...

Well if you say so...

However - There must have been a procedure in the Ford manual, would you agree. Bearing manufacturers themselves too, are particular about how their products are installed, as otherwise they will be ruined in short order.

If anything, a lot of the OEM bearings are better than what's available today. If they are installed and serviced properly they will last a long time. If not, not.
 
Semantics is not something that's worth argument. "Perceptible end play" is what the referenced FoMoCo manual states since that would be undesirable movement in this case. Shake, wobble, gyrate, rattle, etc, were not in the manual but sometimes they paint a more vivid mental picture for some folks.
 
Paul Bennett said:
Many times the cotter key wants an 'in between' position, between too tight and too loose. These special spindle nuts are available to allow that 'half way' situation with 12 slots as opposed to the normal 6. Got mine at C&G about $6.
Many times the cotter key wants and 'in between' position. These special spindle nuts are available to allow that 'half way' situation. Available at C&G about $6.
Click to expand...


It's actually better than that. There are 8 lugs sticking up, or 4 slots if you like, each 45 degrees apart. The nut has 6 sides, each 60 degrees apart. I'm not 100% sure but with a combination of the two, you can get down to about a 15 degree fine adjustment. Which is 4 times finer than the original nut's 60 degrees.

Mart.
 
Mart said:
It's actually better than that. There are 8 lugs sticking up, or 4 slots if you like, each 45 degrees apart. The nut has 6 sides, each 60 degrees apart. I'm not 100% sure but with a combination of the two, you can get down to about a 15 degree fine adjustment. Which is 4 times finer than the original nut's 60 degrees.

Mart.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the answers everyone, but my head is starting to hurt!
 
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