Spindle Conversion Reversal

ursus

Well-known member
I acquired a Model A front axle that had once been converted to 1940 Ford hydraulic brakes. To convert this back to stock I need to remove an inner bearing race that was pressed on to accommodate the larger bearing used with the '40 Ford hubs. How can this best be handled so that the original Model A spindle doesn't get buggered up in the process?
 
If it was pressed on, could be buggered up already. If ford used the same passenger front wheel bearings up to 1948, why would 1940 be different?
 
Model A and '40 spindles are the same diameter; only thing that should be on there is a small spacer similar to a valve seat. Anything bigger may be a disc brake bearing adapter; but in any case, a little heat should get it free.
 

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Model A and '40 spindles are the same diameter; only thing that should be on there is a small spacer similar to a valve seat. Anything bigger may be a disc brake bearing adapter; but in any case, a little heat should get it free.

Thanks for clarifying that the item in question is a spacer. It looked like a bearing race so that why I called it that.
 
Here is a picture from Cling's catalog of the spacer you are probably dealing with. It has been a very long time but I don't remember the spacer being pressed on but rather tapped on lightly. Of course with tolerance build up some cases might have required a press.

Charlie Stephens
 

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I guess this raises another question: do I even need to remove it if the Model A hubs can be mounted OK with the spacer in place? I'd try it now but my hubs are out for mounting with new drums.
 
My guess, and only a guess, is that the spacer will move the bearing out on the spindle such that the cotter key won't line up with the holes in the castle nut.

Charlie Stephens
 
Yes , I believe Charlie is correct that spacer is to move bearing outward( it does need to come off) they usually come off with a couple of taps
 
Heat a spot red hot with an acetylene [sp] torch and take 2 ball pean hammers. One ball against the hot spot and hit it with the second. The ball will stretch the race when stuck.
 
I have hydraulics on my roadster and the spacer comes right off with my fingers , no heat or tools. Other hydraulics that I have worked on came right off also. Try a putty knife to move it off before getting out the torches and welders. It may just be dried grease holding it. It's only a spacer so it shouldn't be that hard to remove.
 
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