Humble opinion:
I bought a spindle reamer from Bratton's about 15 years ago that works great every time if one takes the time to learn how to use it properly.
Also have a bushing driver set bought years ago from Harbor Freight that has sizes that work for driving out or installing all Model A bushings.
Also have a precise special distributor bushing reamer that works perfectly.
Paul Moller, in his Chapter 10 of Volume 1, "Model A Ford - Restoration & Maintenance Handbook", wrote a good article with photos on how to ream spindle bushings if one is interested in learning same.
If you feel that you cannot accurately work with hand tools, forget it -- like anything else, all hand tool work requires patience, hand & eye coordination & a certain amount dexterity.
In my opinion, after doing a few spindles & distributors, this is important when using reamers:
1. Get the correct spindle reamer or distributor reamer, U.S. made of tool steel, from a reliable source, as opposed getting a cheap foreign made reamer that is about as inaccurate as the Chinese the India versions of what they think are correct American shoe sizes & shirt sizes.
2. Place spindle in vise such that reamer is always vertical; hence, not adding weight & thus not allowing excess cutting to one side of the bushing.
3. Have a large oil can handy with lots of oil, (detergent or non-detergent), & "flood" the reamer with oil on every 360 degree revolution -- too much oil is never a problem.
4. Insure that the bushing holes are aligned with the spindle grease fittings.
5. Apply no downward force to reamer while carefully turning; i.e., allow the weight of the reamer to slowly & accurately cut the bushings with its own weight. Also place one hand directly over reamer to steady it at 90 degrees while turning the handle on the wrench.
6. "Never" turn reamer counter-clockwise -- "always" slowly turn "clockwise".
7. When finished, don't throw your precise reamer in your tool box beating up the cutting edges like many mechanics would do -- clean it, oil it, & wrap the reamer in an "oiled" cotton cloth, & store it in a piece of protective PVC pipe with caps on both ends -- it will be like new for the next set of bushings.
8. When finished reaming, thoroughly clean insides of bushings.
9. Lastly, get a straight wood dowel about 18" long & fit it into a power drill.
10. On the other end of the dowel, up to about 4" from the other end, cut about 1/16" deep & about 45 degree knife marks into the wood dowel on all sides, 4" long, allowing wood dowel slivers to protrude upwards.
11. Wrap wood dowel with enough four aught, (0000), steel wool such that the steel wool wrapped dowel can fit inside the bushings. The wood slivers will prevent the steel wool from slipping on the dowel.
12. Add oil to the steel wool, & turn the drill "ON" & polish the inside of the bushing for about 45 seconds until it shines like a mirror -- works for distributors also.
13. If one thinks the steel wool will cut too much, let it run for (3) hours & one will experience that the bushing will not get any larger with (0000) steel wool such that the king pin or distributor shaft will get loose -- gunsmiths use this technique often to improve & remove friction in bores of high quality shotguns.
FWIW: Have nothing against machine shop work of any kind today in 2013; but whether it involves, wood working, plastering, roof sheet metal work, or whatever, it just appears that fine craftsmanship & the care somehow slipped out of the window a few years ago -- if it works once, do it again.
With GREAT concentration, & absolute steadiness, he installed about 27 stitches, tied & snipped the thread & then his hands began their usual shaking!!!!ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!! Bill W.