Speedway c-4 kit

I,m running a c4 and like it very much.The speedway kit is good you will need a 12 volt starter.If buying to whole kit with trans you will get the right flexplate and bellhousing.
If you have trans you need correct bellhousing.
Small bell is 5 7/8" long, and from lower bolt starter to top c/c is 15 1/2 , 157 tooth
Larger bell is 6 3/16",From the lower starter bolt to top c/c.15 3/4" 164 tooth.
Works better with kick down but I shift mine manualy.
 
Now I think this same kit will also allow the use of the AOD which has a lockup converter and an OD. Some think it needs more power to operate, but a friend has one and it works great, burnouts and gas mileage, can't beat that with a stick.
 
MG
I'm using a speedway kit in a 40 I'm building. I went with the cheaper kit and supplied my own trans and starter. I thought the directions were very good, you will have to drill out two of the threaded bell housing holes in the block. The starter is 70's 302 - c4. I have some pictures on another computer, if you are interested. Chuck.
 
Ol' Ron said:
Now I think this same kit will also allow the use of the AOD which has a lockup converter and an OD. Some think it needs more power to operate, but a friend has one and it works great, burnouts and gas mileage, can't beat that with a stick.
Click to expand...
AOD won't clear the early X-members,whereas the C4 will.I have a C4 with a Gear Venders OD in my 40 with no major X-member modifications.
 
I'm using the Speedway kit in my 55 f-100,with a 53 flathead .I purchased it about 7years ago .They were alot cheaper then..Hooked a Lokar shifter to it.Sure beats shifting .I purchased the complete kit .
 
I am using the Flat-o-matic and am very happy with it. The C-4 is great behind my blown flatty.
 
Fourdy
I have a Flat oMatic .Have you had a problem with thorque converter,I thought it was kind of small,I was wondering what its from,maybe a 4 or 6 cylinder.I don,t think it made for lot of horse power.
 
George,
the torque converter is small but I have no problem with it. I believe it is a 2000 +/- stall. It is from Gene at Flat-o. The only strangeness I have with the set-up is that I can't get the trans to shift out of passing gear on its own. I have adjusted the vac module and it helped but not self shifting as yet. If I drive and accelerate normally the trans shifts just fine. If I punch it and it goes into passing gear I can hit 5000 rpm easily with no shift on its own. I don't want the rpm over 5200 so I snap my foot off the gas and back on, it shifts sharply out of 2nd and keeps pulling. I'm not the sharpest tack in the neighborhood but I think the shifting situation must be due to blower function.

If anyone has any thoughts to help, I would appreciate it. By the way, I very seldom test the 5k range.

Are you having trouble with yours?

Fourdy
 
Fourdy,
If you have the kick-down linkage hooked up, un hook it. Shift manualy. Should up-shift quickly under normal take off. If not, check the gov. adjustment. Gov is in tailshaft. Been running without kick-down linlage for years! One is a stock 302/c-4 and the other is a highly modified 302/c-4. Both are in Ranger P/U's.
 
estout81,
you have to talk slow for me. LOL I think you are saying that by disconnecting the kick-down and then if I found the need for extra speed such as a safe pass (grin) I would then just shift down to 2nd. Out to drive at what ever rpm I want. I think I get it. Maybe before I do that I may adjust the the gov more but I think it is adjusted almost all the way now.

Thanks for your input.

Fourdy
 
I have had 2 c4s trans with out kick down and they shift out of 1st to fast then into 3nd.
The way I drive mine is like a standard to get moving little faster.I wind 1st to rpm i like, then push Lockar shift to 2nd and wind 2nd, then shift to drive.
another guy his shifts to fast also.The kickdown should hold in 1 st longer.Anyway its better no grinding gears ,no noise,never mis a shift,no chatter,and faster,
 
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