speedster project... need help

larry harding

Senior Member
i've been working on a speedster project for about a year now. it is along the lines of the rootlieb kit some of the suppliers carry. there is a green one on youtube that i'm trying to copy with a few of my own ideas. the rootlieb kit sits the firewall back 4-5" more than normal a" set up. my problem is the throttle ain't going to work out this way. if i just extend the throttle link i'm going to have a really long travel on the foot feed. have any of you guys built the rootlieb kit? i would appreciate any pictures or advice you can offer, thanks
 
I don't have a pic, but on my green speedster I bought a 'spoon' throttle from Speedway Motors in Lincoln NE. It bolts to the firewall. I'm running Stromberg downdrafts, and I positioned the throttle to line up with the cab bases.
 
that's an idea, but what i can see in the videos on yt they are running the stock throttle pedal. i want to go that rout if i can figure ouy the linkage.
 
Larry, you are making that WAY to difficult. :D Use tubing to space the Throttle Assy. back to the firewall.


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that is an idea i had.. i would have to lengthen the rod between the carb and the rocker assembly. hopefully a better suggestion will come along.
 
that is an idea i had.. i would have to lengthen the rod between the carb and the rocker assembly. hopefully a better suggestion will come along.

Larry, because the firewall is in a new location, if you are still wanting a mechanical linkage system you will either need to lengthen the control rod between the bellcrank and throttle control assy arm, -or you must lengthen the throttle peg on the control assembly like in the pictures below. I have done it both ways on my cars and can tell you that I much prefer moving the entire Control Assy. rearward instead of adding to the throttle peg. Not sure how much 'better' (-i.e.: simple) it could be. From my vantage point, it will be much simpler than trying to McGuyver a motorcycle clutch cable assy to use as a throttle.


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How about placing the body forward ( the 4-5 inches) , with the body back it looks like the footwell is tighter ? Also with the body forward the pedals would work better? Just a different way to look at the issues
 
How about placing the body forward ( the 4-5 inches) , with the body back it looks like the footwell is tighter ? Also with the body forward the pedals would work better? Just a different way to look at the issues

Actually, I think it feels, -and looks proportionately better when the body is more rearward.

To make the controls work with the body moved rearward, I just heated the pedals and bent them backwards slightly just above the pedal shaft which made the pedal stand more vertical. Then where the pedal bends rearward about 120° at the top, that area is bent where the bend is about 90° which makes the pedal position(s) about horizontal as they come out of the floorboard. Moving the body rearward basically moves the shift lever forward in the cockpit giving more room in front of the seats too.

On my cars, I also moved the steering column rearward by drilling new holes in the frame rail just in front of the rear engine mounts. On my Mobilgas car, I believe I used a '32 Drag Link because I had fabbed a longer Pitman Arm to get faster/quicker steering when I was racing the car.

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i think i'm on my way with the spacers. i had started thinking that way when i saw your post. i bought a couple of fabricated pieces from rootlieb and am fabricating everything else my self. i talked to a guy at rootlieb who got me moving everyhing rearward 4-5"
the steerng box is right against the left motor mount. i've made a spacer to lenghthen the starter button next will be the rod from the carb to the rocker. your speedster looks great, i hope mine will look that good. did you make your own headers and intake? where are in east tenn? i've been going to the east tenn. crank up in unicoi 30+ years.
 
i think i'm on my way with the spacers. i had started thinking that way when i saw your post. i bought a couple of fabricated pieces from rootlieb and am fabricating everything else my self. i talked to a guy at rootlieb who got me moving everyhing rearward 4-5"
the steerng box is right against the left motor mount. i've made a spacer to lenghthen the starter button next will be the rod from the carb to the rocker. your speedster looks great, i hope mine will look that good. did you make your own headers and intake? where are in east tenn? i've been going to the east tenn. crank up in unicoi 30+ years.

Yes, it seems each one of my speedsters had a different exhaust system. :o

My shop is less than 15 miles away from Jeff's place on Scioto Rd. For years, I played with engines & tractors, and was very active in the Crank-up and in the ET Antique Engine Club. Just not enough weekends to play with all of our toys. :D Plan on coming by the shop for a visit next June when you are in town.
 
i've probably been by your place several times. started going to etcu back in the 80's, too bad we lost jeff(geoff?) last year. i'm also into cushman scooters and one day of the ride from erwin, we've ridden thru scotia rd several times. if i make it up to etcu next year i definitley would like to see your toys. between antique and modern two wheelers, flywheel engines and model as i've got too many hobbies, but love them all. i enjoy meetinf other gearheads.
 
I’m also playing with a Rootlieb speedster build. I like the throttle ser up. Did you bend your pedals yet?
Bob Giles
Johnstown, Pa.
 
yes.... heated them right in place down near the shaft and bent them back, then heated the elbow area and leveled them up. a friend who has a speedster (rootlieb kit i think) sent me pictures of his pedals holding a ruler next to the pedals. about 8" from the fire wall. i've spaced my throttle rocker back 4" i'm making a new crossshaft from one the old throttle/ spark levers i replaced. it's going to take a bit of tinkering and bending to get the throttle working smooth. i don't know yet what i'm going to do to extend then link between the carb and rocker. the link is not a standerd diameter so threading an extension is not practical. hate to loose the nice plating on the link.
 
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