speed parts on the banger

Lowbuckboz said:
I would consider this pre-war. I used no parts newer than 1942.



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I like it looks just right.
 
I believe those tires were made relatively recently, but that's just nit picking. That is a beautiful coupe!
 
Here's an original pre war CRAGAR head and a Stromberg-Bendix downdraft available in 1931.
 

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rmak said:
Ha, ha. Now I get you, Brent. You're saying that if people were really into pre-war banger rods they'd only be using the speed equipment available at the time. You are a restorer through and through! That's hard to argue with. I can only say that the new stuff is fun.

From my memory, though, the idea of a pure race car back then wasn't so cut and dried. Guys would drive their cars to a race event, tape or remove their headlights, take off body parts, race around, put everything back and drive home to use their cars to go to work the next day. The idea of the average person having more than one car (or phone, or tv or pair of jeans) came later.

I totally agree that the idea of butchering a perfectly good body style is a crappy idea. As a motorcycle restorer I cringe when anyone chops a perfectly restorable classic bike. Making or approximating period correct modifications is OK, like making a Norton Manx for example.

That's why I don't understand why the hot rod guys are so against fiberglass reproductions. It's a perfectly good basis for a hot rod and is no more "fake" than a metal reproduction. They should embrace repro bodies and parts as a way of maintaining the limited number of originals in an original state.
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Some times the car or truck found behind the barn or out in a field is too far gone or missing too many parts for a proper restoration and I feel it is better to hot rod than to crush. I do agree with of course not chopping cutting or changeing a car in already good restorable shape. Save them anyway we can and build to our liking. I have a 1926 T coupe in remarkable origanale shape and a 1930 A coupe each will be restored stock. But i also have a 1946 ford PU that sat in a field on its side for 40 years. It is not stock, but I can drive across canada tomorrow if I choose.
 
Thanks for the compliments! And yes, those tires are newer! LOL Everything on the car is bolt on, can go back to stock very easily. I do have a completely stock 31 A pickup that will never be modified. I also drive the snot out of that coupe, way more fun than any vehicle I own. I have had the die hard restorers compliment the way I have done that car. I feel as though I have respected the car.
 
i have a stock 28 coupe and would like to get the same look you did lowbuckboz,can you send me some info on parts you used.
 
When you get to the point where your A can cruise 90, consider getting some fins from a
'59 Caddy and welding them to the rear fenders.
 
Both my 30 coupe & 31 s/w sedan run 33 B engines & Columbia OD,s.The coupe has a 5.9 BF head & the sedan will have a 5.5 head.Also using Teds Floaters for added stopping power.Never drilled a single hole in the mods ,so it could be changed back to stock in a week-end,but not as long as I own the cars.Its nice to be able to cruise at 60 on busy hiways at low rpm with less change of getting rear ended.
 
my 28 coupe is all stock,would like to add duel carb downdraft intake.will this be a bolt-on or i will have to make some engine up-grades.i have a zepher duel carb intake.
 
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fritzz13 said:
my 28 coupe is all stock,would like to add duel carb downdraft intake.will this be a bolt-on or i will have to make some engine up-grades.
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Try one of these; single carb, but it's 2-barrel. And it's completely bolt-on.
 

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Mike V. Florida said:
Drop in a small block V8, dropped axle, juice brakes, od ******.....

Seriously, the first thing you need to decide is what do you want from your Model A?


This site was designed by it's owner to lean way over to the restoration side and his site HAMB is designed for the modified side.
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fritzz13 said:
i have a zepher 2 carb intake,will this work on my stock engine and what carbs to use.
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If is a 3 bolt model, it will take Stromberg 81, 97, 48 or Holley/Chandler Grove 94.
On a stock engine you would do best with the 81's.
Even better is use 3 bolt to 2 bolt adapters and use the single throat Holley's from a Ford 6.
 
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