Roadster 28
Junior Member
Hello everybody,
Im intrested Isky 1016 camshaft specs.
Anyone?
Im intrested Isky 1016 camshaft specs.
Anyone?
Specs for Isky 1016 camshaft?
- Thread starter Roadster 28
- Start date
Roadster 28
Junior Member
Thanks,
Im rebuilding -46 59AB and mods are:
- porting ext/int
- relieving
- full flow oil system
- standard valves
- reds adjustable lifters
- standard bore/pistons
- standard crank
- standard rods
- dual point mallory
and for first summer i have standard intake and 1x94 and standard heads.
Next winter i will replace those whit aluminium intake/heads and 2x94 carbs
So i thinkin what is good camshaft? I want rough idle and low range torgue.
Im rebuilding -46 59AB and mods are:
- porting ext/int
- relieving
- full flow oil system
- standard valves
- reds adjustable lifters
- standard bore/pistons
- standard crank
- standard rods
- dual point mallory
and for first summer i have standard intake and 1x94 and standard heads.
Next winter i will replace those whit aluminium intake/heads and 2x94 carbs
So i thinkin what is good camshaft? I want rough idle and low range torgue.
L100 would do exactly what you want, but with stock compression ratio it will not have very good low down torque. Wit high compression heads however, it really would do exactly as you asked for.
This is from running an almost identical engine. Only real differences being I ran two 94's with stock heads, never ran just one on it.
Very important, that Mallory will need the advance curve confirming, I haven't seen one have a Flathead curve from the factory, wether front mount or post type. All had small block ch#§€¥ curves, which are to long and to slow.
The Kiwi above can grind you the L100.
My very very similar engine pulled like hell, nudged 7000rpm a time or two.
Have fun (you will)
Martin.
This is from running an almost identical engine. Only real differences being I ran two 94's with stock heads, never ran just one on it.
Very important, that Mallory will need the advance curve confirming, I haven't seen one have a Flathead curve from the factory, wether front mount or post type. All had small block ch#§€¥ curves, which are to long and to slow.
The Kiwi above can grind you the L100.
My very very similar engine pulled like hell, nudged 7000rpm a time or two.
Have fun (you will)
Martin.
Walt Dupont--Me.
Well-known member
I wouldn't relieve your engine for the street, your just loosing compression, you want all you can get for low range torque. That cam is way to high rpm for you engine, The L-100 is good cam for what you want. Walt
Roadster 28
Junior Member
Thank you all for the information.
But if we consider that the i change heads next winter is it better relieve now or should it done at all. Compression probably rise whit aluminium heads, or do it?? i know its never too high but anyway
My goal is to get it on the road next summer and spend more money in to engine next winter.
Here is pic of that beast. That block is only for as a fitting only. I have three of those engines.
But if we consider that the i change heads next winter is it better relieve now or should it done at all. Compression probably rise whit aluminium heads, or do it?? i know its never too high but anyway
My goal is to get it on the road next summer and spend more money in to engine next winter.
Here is pic of that beast. That block is only for as a fitting only. I have three of those engines.
Attachments
Last edited:
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
The problem here is the application of the engine. A street engine needs the most torque you can get. I f you plan on racin the engine, you must consider the combustion chambers shape vs Compression ratio. Relieving he block was once a popular modification, now we modify the transfer area in the cylinder head and tighten the piston to head clearance. Gotta start ccing everything.
Roadster 28
Junior Member
Any pics of that transfer area mod?
Roadster 28
Junior Member
Walt Dupont--Me.
Well-known member
Thank you all for the information.
But if we consider that the i change heads next winter is it better relieve now or should it done at all. Compression probably rise whit aluminium heads, or do it?? i know its never too high but anyway
My goal is to get it on the road next summer and spend more money in to engine next winter.
Here is pic of that beast. That block is only for as a fitting only. I have three of those engines.
I wouldn't relieve it at all, how often are you going to turn 4000 between street lights. Walt
Roadster 28
Junior Member
Probably not very often.
Hannu
Hannu
Roadster 28
Junior Member
Okay, so i dont relieving it.
How about fluidampr? I want use fluidamber, because it saves bearings. Does 8ba fluidamber fits 59ab? or do i need buy sbc fluidamber?
How about fluidampr? I want use fluidamber, because it saves bearings. Does 8ba fluidamber fits 59ab? or do i need buy sbc fluidamber?
KiWinUS
Well-known member
Roadster 28
Junior Member
How much? Shipping to Finland? Do i need send my old cam to you?
Send me PM if you dont want put it here.
Send me PM if you dont want put it here.
Last edited:
KiWinUS
Well-known member
Roadster 28
Junior Member
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
Hey Hannu - you've been given some good advice here.
Your specifications show a stock bore and stroke and this is a street engine - so any sort of porting/relieving work will lower compression and torque will suffer as a result. Your focus needs to be on compression, cam, headers, dual carbs and ignition for a small engine for street usage.
Compression: Comes down to smaller combustion chamber designs and lower CC capacity. You can go with aluminum heads with smaller chambers, you can run the smallest iron (stock) heads possible (like 81A heads) . . . or even re-worked "milled and filled" cast iron heads (making their chambers like the typical ones you'll see on aluminum heads). Back in the early years of flatheads a lot of stock heads were reworked for higher compression - aftermarket aluminum heads were rare and expensive.
Also, your block has already had the valve seat work done - so you can't really do much of anything at this point to the ports or the relief without risking the valve seats. I'd get this engine together with a L-100 cam, a good ignition, maybe an Edelbrock Slingshot manifold and a set of headers . . . and have fun. Make sure everything is balanced, the clearances are correct, put in a good oil pump . . . you'll be good to go.
If you want to build a big cubic inch stroker motor, then you can consider all those other modifications . . . and all the many ways/opinions of how best to do them. The cost to build the engine will go up by a factor of about 3X. Two mid-sized stroker combinations that are fairly easy to build are as follows:
1) 276 Cubic Inches: 49-53 4.00" Mercury crankshaft, 3 5/16 bore.
2) 284 Cubic Inches: 49-53 4.00" Mercury crankshaft, offset ground on the rod journals to 4 1/8" stroke, 3 5/16 bore. Then you'll need rods designed for the smaller 221 crankshaft journals - 39-42 91A/21A Ford rods - or you buy new H-Beams for this journal size.
Note: The above can be done with stock/available Ford/Merc components and machine work . . . or you can go aftermarket . . . more stroke options are available:
Stroker Kits: If you're thinking of building a larger stroker motor, the thing I'd ponder the most from Finnland is can you find a good Merc. crank over there - along with the rest of the stuff? . . . Or, will you end up having to import all this stuff? If you have to import, you might as well buy a complete and balanced 'stroker kit' - where you'll have a new SCAT crankshaft, rods and pistons - balanced and ready to go. This will in the end save you problems and money trying to assemble all the pieces separately and finding a machine shop to do the work (unless you already know of one that really is into flatheads). There are a variety of places that can supply a complete kit - prices and components vary a bit.
Once you get to these larger engine sizes, then some level of porting/relieving and associated valve work can really help if you're going to run the engine past 4000 RPM. The L100 cam will still be a good cam - for either of the above 2 street combinations - though you can go 'bigger' if you want. Flatheads designed for higher RPM horsepower require more flow - you will always give up some lower end torque and horsepower - though big cubic inches help offset this (as does a positive displacement supercharger!
)
If you want to learn more about porting/relieving, buy some of the books as well as JWL's writeup - he shows specific modifications and actual dyno work to show the results. Nothing like real testing to dispel some of the 'myths' and 'facts' that people spew forth. Also, I'm happy to help you if you head down this path - but I'd make that my 'second' engine!
If you need more information, you can always PM or eMail me - always willing to help out a fellow Finn.
Onnea!
Dale 'Paananen' Hays
Your specifications show a stock bore and stroke and this is a street engine - so any sort of porting/relieving work will lower compression and torque will suffer as a result. Your focus needs to be on compression, cam, headers, dual carbs and ignition for a small engine for street usage.
Compression: Comes down to smaller combustion chamber designs and lower CC capacity. You can go with aluminum heads with smaller chambers, you can run the smallest iron (stock) heads possible (like 81A heads) . . . or even re-worked "milled and filled" cast iron heads (making their chambers like the typical ones you'll see on aluminum heads). Back in the early years of flatheads a lot of stock heads were reworked for higher compression - aftermarket aluminum heads were rare and expensive.
Also, your block has already had the valve seat work done - so you can't really do much of anything at this point to the ports or the relief without risking the valve seats. I'd get this engine together with a L-100 cam, a good ignition, maybe an Edelbrock Slingshot manifold and a set of headers . . . and have fun. Make sure everything is balanced, the clearances are correct, put in a good oil pump . . . you'll be good to go.
If you want to build a big cubic inch stroker motor, then you can consider all those other modifications . . . and all the many ways/opinions of how best to do them. The cost to build the engine will go up by a factor of about 3X. Two mid-sized stroker combinations that are fairly easy to build are as follows:
1) 276 Cubic Inches: 49-53 4.00" Mercury crankshaft, 3 5/16 bore.
2) 284 Cubic Inches: 49-53 4.00" Mercury crankshaft, offset ground on the rod journals to 4 1/8" stroke, 3 5/16 bore. Then you'll need rods designed for the smaller 221 crankshaft journals - 39-42 91A/21A Ford rods - or you buy new H-Beams for this journal size.
Note: The above can be done with stock/available Ford/Merc components and machine work . . . or you can go aftermarket . . . more stroke options are available:
Stroker Kits: If you're thinking of building a larger stroker motor, the thing I'd ponder the most from Finnland is can you find a good Merc. crank over there - along with the rest of the stuff? . . . Or, will you end up having to import all this stuff? If you have to import, you might as well buy a complete and balanced 'stroker kit' - where you'll have a new SCAT crankshaft, rods and pistons - balanced and ready to go. This will in the end save you problems and money trying to assemble all the pieces separately and finding a machine shop to do the work (unless you already know of one that really is into flatheads). There are a variety of places that can supply a complete kit - prices and components vary a bit.
Once you get to these larger engine sizes, then some level of porting/relieving and associated valve work can really help if you're going to run the engine past 4000 RPM. The L100 cam will still be a good cam - for either of the above 2 street combinations - though you can go 'bigger' if you want. Flatheads designed for higher RPM horsepower require more flow - you will always give up some lower end torque and horsepower - though big cubic inches help offset this (as does a positive displacement supercharger!
)If you want to learn more about porting/relieving, buy some of the books as well as JWL's writeup - he shows specific modifications and actual dyno work to show the results. Nothing like real testing to dispel some of the 'myths' and 'facts' that people spew forth. Also, I'm happy to help you if you head down this path - but I'd make that my 'second' engine!
If you need more information, you can always PM or eMail me - always willing to help out a fellow Finn.
Onnea!
Dale 'Paananen' Hays