Special Tools and Easy Assembly Sequence

Terry Burtz Calif

Senior Member
My son Jesse and I developed an easy assembly sequence that uses 5 special tools to simplify engine assembly. Although the tools and assembly sequence were developed for the "New Engine", many tools can be used to simplify the assembly of an original engine.

The special tools include 8 valve tools that hold the valves open

An O-ring tool that has an internal taper to compress the O-ring used on a main bearing stud

A dowel tool that holds the crankshaft dowel pin perpendicular to get it started

A seal tool that drives the rear main seal evenly and to the correct depth

An 11/16 inch, 3/8 drive impact socket modified with a slot for a cotter pin

My son Jesse makes 4 of the special tools from PETG, a structural plastic, but does not make the modified socket. The cost for 11 tools is $40, and Jesse's email is jesseb@gmail.com

The easy assembly sequence is below, followed by pictures of the tools
1) Install all valve guides, springs, valves, and keepers
2) Install all 8-valve tools to keep the valves open
3) Adjust all tappets to be 2.50 inches long
4) Install the tappets, camshaft, and camshaft nut (without camshaft gear)
5) Remove/reinstall the valve tools one at a time while adjusting the tappets
6) Insert the long studs, assemble the O-ring tool, and install the O-ring
7) Push the long stud down to allow the O-ring tool to compress the O-ring

8) Remove the O-ring tool and assemble the castellated nut and cotter pin
9) Assemble the bearing inserts and install the crankshaft
10) Tighten the 12-point nuts on the long studs using the castellated nut socket to prevent the castellated nut from turning
11) Assemble the pistons, rings, and connecting rods
12) Remove the camshaft nut and install the camshaft timing gear
13) Remove the 8 valve tools
14) Install the rear main seal with the seal tool, and crankshaft dowels with the dowel tool
15) Crankshaft torque should be 5 lb-in (piston up), and 25 lb-ft (piston mid stroke)
 

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  • dowel pin tool.jpg
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  • seal tool.jpg
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  • Modified Socket.jpg
    Modified Socket.jpg
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  • valve tool.jpg
    valve tool.jpg
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Possibly this is because I haven’t assembled one of these, but why is it useful to have a socket with a cotter pin slot in it?
 
The cotter pin can be inserted without removing the socket. This is handy when you have to line up the cotter pin hole. You don't have to remove the socket to look to see if the hole is aligned and you can just turn the nut until it is and then insert the pin. One example is the nut on the rear axle.

It is a good idea and can easily be made. I would buy new sockets so that you still have the original ones in your tool set.

Fantastic news that Terry's son has an interest in his dad's work. That means that when Terry retires the business is likely to continue.
 
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As Bob said, the O rings go on the main bearing studs. They are to keep oil from leaking out the stud and to the outside of the engine.
 
Possibly this is because I haven’t assembled one of these, but why is it useful to have a socket with a cotter pin slot in it?

The new engine has 3 long main bearing studs visible on the exterior, and use O-rings, castellated nuts, and cotter pins to look original.

The order of assembly is to insert the long stud from the bottom and through the O-ring tool that has an internal taper. Install the O-ring in the groove on the stud and pull down on the stud to compress the O-ring. Remove the O-ring tool and install the castellated nut and cotter pin.

When tightening the 12-point nuts at the bottom of the 3 long studs, the castellated nut and cotter pin need to be held in a position that makes it appear the cotter pin was installed on an assembly line.
 
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