spark plug caps

I do believe the 1/2" caps your referring to Are 3/8" caps. They are 1/2" inside diameter because they slid over the outside of a 3/8" pipe. The 1/2" would be to big for my Autolite 3076 plugs, I don't see my plugs being that much smaller in diameter if at all.
If anyone has the same autolite plugs these require a metric knurled brass nut, good luck finding them. M4 X 0.7 I had no luck finding them.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Just trying to save someone a second trip to the hardware store.
 
Roxo said:
I do believe the 1/2" caps your referring to Are 3/8" caps. They are 1/2" inside diameter because they slid over the outside of a 3/8" pipe. The 1/2" would be to big for my Autolite 3076 plugs, I don't see my plugs being that much smaller in diameter if at all.
If anyone has the same autolite plugs these require a metric knurled brass nut, good luck finding them. M4 X 0.7 I had no luck finding them.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Just trying to save someone a second trip to the hardware store.
Click to expand...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-Copper-Pressure-Tube-Cap-Fitting-C617HD12/204620212
 
Y-Blockhead, Thanks for the image of a shortened cap. The bevel you put at the bottom and the rib showing makes the copper cap look more like it belongs on the plug. Great job!
How did you cut the cap without damaging the soft copper?
 
5lugnuts said:
How did you cut the cap without damaging the soft copper?
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HAHA, extremely HIGH tech. I turned the copper cap upside down on a spark plug and used the brass knurled nut to hold it in place so I could use the spark plug as a handle. Then I slowly sanded it on my Harbor Freight 5" https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-5-in-combination-belt-and-disc-sander-69033.html to the length I liked. I used fine disc and an even finer belt. I cut the bevel at the bottom using the same. Then polished. The caps are cheap so experiment.

Seems I have way too much time on my hands but I had fun with this little project and they came out great looking.

I'm still undecided which I like better, the short or long.
 
Roxo said:
Marty, you know you go to the hardware store to much when the great you at the door and call you by your name. According to my wife.
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My wife came with me the other day to HF and before I got to the register the guy called me by my name. My wife said, I knew you came here too often.:eek:
 
old31 said:
My wife came with me the other day to HF and before I got to the register the guy called me by my name. My wife said, I knew you came here too often.:eek:
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[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
daren007 said:
Are you somehow defeating the reason there are ribs on the porcelain by installing the caps over them?
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Spark plug construction
Ribs: The ribs prevent electrical energy from leaking from the terminal to the metal case along the side of the insulator. The longer the current has to travel because of the ripples the higher the resistance thereby assisting with isolation.
 
Guten Abend,
the copper caps are available here with a diameter of 12 mm (<1/2 inch). That fits. Does anyone know such caps made of brass?
 
daren007 said:
My point is are we creating a shorter path to ground. How close do the caps fit to the Porcelain.
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Good thought. Please see my post #29. I put di-electric grease in my caps to prevent moisture from getting under and the d-electric grease will also prevent any zapping to bypass the sparkler.

FYI a 3X is 11/16" from brass cap to spark plug body and the W-16Y is ⅞" from our copper cap to spark plug body.
 
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