sound deadener alternative

Maclab58

Well-known member
Yesterday I pulled the old ratty door panels off my coupe and removed the windows since they were cracked and the regulators so they could be cleaned and greased. I had considered putting dynamat sound deadener in the doors to reduce road noise but I was really taken back by the cost. Well I Googled alternatives and found a product called Peel and Seal. It is a self adhesive asphalt/rubber product with a foil skin. It is very easy to apply and comes in a 6 inch by 24 foot roll. I applied it to the inside of the doors, cowl and the seat pan. when you close the doors it is a noticeable improvement, they sound very solid. the final verdict will come after the new interior and top are installed but im very encouraged. Two rolls is enough to do my coupe and at $18 a roll and I bought it at Lowes in the roofing department.................. BARGAIN!!!!!!!!!:D
 
Last fall I used the same stuff on the insides of my cowl panels. I applied two layers.
The true test will be when the car has sat out in the sun on a hot summer day, and the stuff does not show any signs of liquefying or drooping or smelling.

Doug
 
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The original deadener was removed sometime in the past. The surface needs to be clean and if neccessary to fit around add shapes you can heat it with a heat gun. I pressed it in place with a small wallpaper roller and a plastic bondo spreader. I started on the bottoms of the doors and worked my way up overlapping the sheets about 1/2 inch.
 
In the 50's, I did sound deadner by cutting up war surplus wool blankets, bought a gallon can of brush on undercoating, coated the panel, applied the blanket parts, after two days, I coated over the blanket pieces with a HEAVY coat of undercoating. Quietest 5 window on the road!
 
Doug as far as I know that stuff has to sprayed on . They sell a special gun for it ( pr icy )

I have used in the past ( 30 years ago ) rubber sheets approx 3 mm thick and glued them in with contact glue. I emailed the present owner if the rubber is still on.

He told me : he don't know because he never removed the interior or door panels. Must have done a good job then.
 
I am restoring a 1929 Town Sedan. I used Dynamat for my sound deadener. You don't have to cover all of the metal. As you can see in the attachment that I covered small strips with it. It sure makes the car quieter. I did a knuckle test on the panel before I installed it and the metal had a ringing sound. I installed sound deadener and did the knuckle test and got a thud sound.
 

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Small strips are fine for sound deading, but do little for insulation. The cost to use "Dynamat" to insulated the entire body would be very expensive.
 
I would like to hear the science in using strips as well.

I do not see how it can possibly work.
 
Dynamat or equivalent teamed with the foil insulation works very well. I've used this method on many cars ranging from Model A's to 60s Mopar products. On the later cars I put an extra layer of jute between the carpet and foil insulation.

As for cutting products like Dynamat- I use a pizza cutter, for me it's easier than a knife. Just have to make sure I don't use it to cut one of the many garage pizzas I eat. :)
 
I would like to hear the science in using strips as well.

I do not see how it can possibly work.

Anything that disrupts the vibrations in the sheet metal will inhibit the "hollow tin can" or "drum" sound; they damp the resonance of the metal panel itself... less than full-coverage of the panel surfaces will not do so much to dampen external noise from filtering in...

Kind of like the difference between ringing a bell and trying again with a hand held against the bell - you still hear a noise, but it goes from a ringing tone that lasts for quite a while to a "clunk" or "thud" that disappears almost instantly.
 
Yesterday I pulled the old ratty door panels off my coupe and removed the windows since they were cracked and the regulators so they could be cleaned and greased. I had considered putting dynamat sound deadener in the doors to reduce road noise but I was really taken back by the cost. Well I Googled alternatives and found a product called Peel and Seal. It is a self adhesive asphalt/rubber product with a foil skin. It is very easy to apply and comes in a 6 inch by 24 foot roll. I applied it to the inside of the doors, cowl and the seat pan. when you close the doors it is a noticeable improvement, they sound very solid. the final verdict will come after the new interior and top are installed but im very encouraged. Two rolls is enough to do my coupe and at $18 a roll and I bought it at Lowes in the roofing department.................. BARGAIN!!!!!!!!!:D


How thick is the material ?
 
I would like to hear the science in using strips as well.

I do not see how it can possibly work.

It has to do with adding mass to the center of a panel, as you get closer to a seamed edge there is less ability for the metal to distort or make noise.

20% coverage in the center of the panel tends to be enough, then use the savings to buy a good closed cell foam sound mat that you can apply with spray glue. Then carpet or whatever interior that you want.

The dynamat will take out a lot of the impact noise, and the mat will get rid of the road noise. Works very well.

FYI peal and seal will stink for about the first 2 weeks in the summer, also if you do not prep the surface correctly it will not stick in the long haul.
 
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