Something wrong

Tom Wesenberg said:
I always use the copper head gasket and spray both sides with Copper Coat.
Be sure to torque in at least 3 or 4 steps, like 20, 35, 45, 55 lbs. and be sure to do several retorques after running the engine.
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Also be certain to torque in the proper sequence, as described in the Service Bulletins or many other sources.
 
Mechanics at work
 

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All is well again,gasket was blown and is replaced,everything else is checked,oil pan is cleaned out and new oil,new coolant and at the same time the upper water neck replaced because the old one was too thin at one side(0.5 mm).
Yesterday i drove it about 70 km trip and no more problems......Happy again.
 
Tony Hillyard said:
Great news, now enjoy the spring... when it comes.
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Winter,spring,summer or fall..............the model A drives it all....:D
Only when it is very cold it stays at home,the model A can stand the cold but i don't.......no Heather and a bit drafty make me take a modern car.....oh well,not very modern but a 1985 Citroën Visa.....:rolleyes:
 
Head gasket needing to be replaced is really not uncommon. If you own a Model A long enough, it’s going to happen.

Now that the head is off. I would recommend that you have your mechanic check the head to make sure it is true, (flat). Easier now than finding a leak after you get it back together.

Enjoy.
 
WHN said:
Head gasket needing to be replaced is really not uncommon. If you own a Model A long enough, it’s going to happen.

Now that the head is off. I would recommend that you have your mechanic check the head to make sure it is true, (flat). Easier now than finding a leak after you get it back together.

Enjoy.
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post #24...........
the head was true
 
René W said:
There is no cooling fluid in the oil or oil in the cooling.
The head has to come off to see whats wrong.
I am afraid there's a hole in the pistons,i have lend the A to my son in law and i think he has driving it with the spark at full retard................
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i lost compression on 3 and 4, the head gasket let go between them
 
Rene
If you have original style valves with the mushroomed stems, then 15 thousands should be fine. If you have adjustable valve tappets with modern valves, then I would use I-.10 & E-.13.
 
Rene
If you have original style valves with the mushroomed stems, then 15 thousands should be fine. If you have adjustable valve tappets with modern valves, then I would use I-.10 & E-.13.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Rene',
If it's a gasket leak between #3 & #4, after the head is off, you'll see circular "etchings" in the walls, adjacent to the gasket leak area!
First warning of a leak there, is a 2 cylinder miss, for a few seconds, after start up & "some" abnormal water loss.
A QUICK check for water in the oil: Hold a drop of oil on the dipstick, put a match under it, a nice yellow FLARE= NO WATER----A yellow FLARE, that spits out like a SPARKLER= WATER in the oil.---I tole you I wuz GOOD! BUT nobody believes me--LOL
Bill Beenthere
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Nice trick Bill, going to try it just to see, soon as I find the time to get back out to the garage, hopfully this weekend.
(Business is good, lot's of work)
 
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