Some Flathead advise

This is my first Flathead, want a basic runner.
So after I find out what the Machine shop says I will let you guys know.
My "plan" was to get it going, enough to cruise with, and get another Flathead and do a full build. How nature gets in the way of plans, gotta love it.
 
Hey guys, its been several months. Due to time and some money issues I had to put everything on pause.

So this is where I am
Any suggestions?
 

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You need to put your location on your membership moniker so guys can tell you where to find the help you need to fix that crack.
 
f1builder said:
i guess it depends on how much you want to spend too. you say it runs, if it runs well i wouldn't be trying to take it apart. i bought a 50 F3 that had been sitting for over 25 years and fired it up and it ran perfect. changed the oil and plugs and points and it is still a sweet engine. never did smoke, even after sitting all that time and after the first few minutes it ran. as to the radiator, it all depends too, if you have the money a new aluminum is great and gives added cooling capacity. if you want to save, try to find one locally (where are you?) and take it to a good radiator shop and have it tested and fixed if necessary. i had my 51 merc radiator done locally for $75.00 and it works great. good luck and keep us posted.
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Please look up the "R" value of Aluminum and then look up the "R" value of Copper and then get back to me.

Thanks
 
Tinker said:
That's a mildly expensive crack but not an end all.

What do you want to do with this engine?
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I was originally hoping to run it. Is it possible to run it with that crack? There was no water in the cylinder when I pulled the head cover.
I have a 302 and a 283 at my disposal. Right now I am thinking of getting my shoebox running, don't want to do any major mods so I can put a flathead in it in the future.
This is my idea, hook up the 302 to the stock 3 speed w/OD. Tear down the flathead, if its fixable and not going to cost an arm and leg to repair the crack, get it done and slowly build it in hope of one day putting It in and enjoying my first flathead build.

BTW I am using my phone, apologize for the paragraph structure.
 
The 283 might be a better bet, (We're talking Chevy, right?) adaptors are readily available, and of all the motor swaps it's probably the easiest.

Mart.
 
IMO, Tear it down to a bare block then go have it magnafluxed to find out if there are any other cracks. Get an estimate to fix and then you can decide what to do next.
 
It's called the snowball effect. We set out to get one just running and before you know it, it's in a million pieces and we're ordering parts.

That crack looks easily repairable and NO, you shouldn't run it that way. You probably have little to no compression in that cylinder from the valve seat crack.

There are guys that spend $8-$10 thousand rebuilding a flathead, but you can get one done for about $3,000 ($1500 parts, $1500 machine shop) if you break it down to a short block, get the machine work done, and put it back together yourself.
 
H and H Flatheads is in California. The only things they work on are Model Fords and Ford flat head v/8 s. They are set up for Fords and and they are real competitive on price and do good work. People ship them engines from all over the world. They would be my first choice. They know how to fix cracks and what works and what does not work.
 
hmmm....might check out the link, and if you've ever been to this get-together, it's pretty cool....should be some flatheads there and you can ask people who they might recommend for flathead work.....used to be early Ford parts store there, too....not sure whether it's still there....good luck.....and i hope you can keep the flathead in your car.....Mike

http://www.donutderelicts.com/aboutus.html
 
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H and H has web site and they have been featured in several car magazines. They mass produce rebuilt old flat heads all day long.

They have a pretty red paint for the engines if you want bright red. I am sure they offer several colors but nothing says hot rod like louvers, banjo rear end and a red flat head. Unfortunately you do not have a banjo rear-end.

You will not be paying H and H for them to get on the learning curve.
 
msalamanca said:
Hey guys, its been several months. Due to time and some money issues I had to put everything on pause.

So this is where I am
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
As it turned out I had a crack exactly like that in my first 8BA and only found out about it when the valve seat loosened and fell out. It was a very attention-grabbing sound. The valve seat bits embedded themselves in the piston and head. Don't run it like that.
 
After seeing that mess .STRIP it..CLEAN it (at the very least) while the engine is out......Why do things twice..'cause that's what will happen..........
 
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