Solonoid for starter conversion

[citroen]

I would like to convert my 1932 B "pull lever" starter to push button with a solonoid...Is this a simple chore? Who sells the proper parts and is there a wiring diagram? Thanks for any help....

 

[Cool Hand Lurker]

Pick up a 6 volt solenoid at an auto parts store, hook it up like this:

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Are you having trouble with the starter switch? Just wondering why the change as I would think the pull lever would be very easy.

If you need a new 1932 switch, I have an NOS MARCO switch for 1932 starters I could sell. Just send me a PM if you need it.

 

[citroen]

Thanks to you both for your time and suggestions. I may not change...If I do what do I do as to the diagram if my car is negative ground? Have a great day....M

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Thanks to you both for your time and suggestions. I may not change...If I do what do I do as to the diagram if my car is negative ground? Have a great day....M

Polarity won't matter on a simple starter relay, unless it has a diode to short circuit the back EMF from the collapsing magnetic field. I haven't seen any diodes used for this on starter relays.

Some people also call them starter solenoids, but that term is more correct for something like a 55 Chevy, where the solenoid pulls a metal pluger into the coil, which pulls the drive pinion into mesh with the starter ring gear.

 

[Cool Hand Lurker]

There are two kinds of solenoids. One has two smaller terminals and the other has only one smaller terminal. These smaller terminals are the ones you power to activate the solenoid to close the points inside the solenoid case that transfer the high current to the starter. The solenoid that has only one smaller terminal uses the case of the solenoid as the other terminal. The case is grounded by the mounting screws.

Changing to negative ground won't matter if the solenoid is the one with two smaller terminals because it doesn't matter which one is positive and which one is negative to complete the circuit.

However, it WILL matter if the solenoid is the one with the single smaller terminal. Since the negative terminal is in effect the grounded case of the solenoid, you have to run a positive wire to the single terminal. So the wire FROM the switch to the solenoid has to be positive. That means that the wire from the power source TO the switch also has to be positive and NOT grounded.

The diagram shows the positive power source coming to the switch from the + large terminal of the solenoid although it could also come directly from the battery. It is just easier to run it from the solenoid large terminal. You would not run it from the other large terminal on the solenoid because that one is not powered unless the solenoid is activated.

 

[1931 flamingo]

Citroen, I had a 32 "B" 4dr sedan back in the 60's and for the life of me can't remember how I started it? Bothers me
Paul in CT

 

[citroen]

My Friend...You pulled out a small switch on the right side of the steering column. Best wishes. A heary thanks for each and everyones professional input and sketches....M

 

[Tom Sieffert]

Hi citroen,

Sorry for taking so long to respond but I knew that I couldn’t explain what pictures could clearly show to answer your question; I needed time to get my act together and take good pictures (turned out a little fuzzy). As you can see, this IS a Model B starter (3 rather than 4 starter switch holes in the starter housing). And it has a new, modern Bendix for those that may be interested how this looks also.

Looking at the pictures, you need to find, in the flea market, an after-market, small housing to which the starter solenoid is mounted. It has a copper tab that maintains constant contact to the large copper terminal on the starter and is connected to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. This terminal also supports the solenoid atop the small housing. The other side of the solenoid with the large stak-on is connected directly to the positive terminal on your battery with a size 1 battery cable. The housing must be grounded in this case also. You must also obtain a replacement ignition switch with a momentary start position (much like modern ignition switches) that is connected to the secondary circuit of the solenoid that will close the circuit from your battery to the starter when you want to start your engine. Once the engine kicks over, you release the ignition switch, the solenoid opens, and the starter stops and disengages from the flywheel. This particular solenoid has a black button that you can push that allows you to manually energize the solenoid without having to turn the ignition switch to the start position – great for starting the engine while doing diagnostic work.

Similar to what many Model Aers do, I have connected a fuse block up to the rest of the Model A wiring but I use 20A circuit breakers rather than glass buss fuses as they are more forgiving.

Good luck!

 

[Charlie Stephens]

Citroen, I had a 32 "B" 4dr sedan back in the 60's and for the life of me can't remember how I started it? Bothers me
Paul in CT

You may have had a push button on the floor similar to the Model A. The switch mounted to the steering column and the button came through the floor. This was used on all of the V8's in 1932 and the later 4 cylinders.

Charlie Stephens

 

[Merc Cruzer]

There are two kinds of solenoids. One has two smaller terminals and the other has only one smaller terminal. These smaller terminals are the ones you power to activate the solenoid to close the points inside the solenoid case that transfer the high current to the starter. The solenoid that has only one smaller terminal uses the case of the solenoid as the other terminal. The case is grounded by the mounting screws.

Changing to negative ground won't matter if the solenoid is the one with two smaller terminals because it doesn't matter which one is positive and which one is negative to complete the circuit.

However, it WILL matter if the solenoid is the one with the single smaller terminal. Since the negative terminal is in effect the grounded case of the solenoid, you have to run a positive wire to the single terminal. So the wire FROM the switch to the solenoid has to be positive. That means that the wire from the power source TO the switch also has to be positive and NOT grounded.

The diagram shows the positive power source coming to the switch from the + large terminal of the solenoid although it could also come directly from the battery. It is just easier to run it from the solenoid large terminal. You would not run it from the other large terminal on the solenoid because that one is not powered unless the solenoid is activated.

Cool Hand Lurker:

Say I want to set my points in my 53' Merc and I have the three terminal solenoid and also have the two wire hand held remote starter switch and want to just bump the engine over. Since they do not have the button on the bottom anymore. Am I correct in saying that one wire from the remote switch would go to the hot lead (pos ground car - terminal on the left in the picture) and the second to the small terminal on the front of the starter solenoid?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Cool Hand Lurker:

Say I want to set my points in my 53' Merc and I have the three terminal solenoid and also have the two wire hand held remote starter switch and want to just bump the engine over. Since they do not have the button on the bottom anymore. Am I correct in saying that one wire from the remote switch would go to the hot lead (pos ground car - terminal on the left in the picture) and the second to the small terminal on the front of the starter solenoid?

I'm not CHL, but what you said is correct.

 

[Merc Cruzer]

Tom...always good to get confirmation.

Thank you,

Roy

 

[Merc Cruzer]

Tom:

FYI..... it works, making it much easier for one person to set the points and adjust the valves (I have adjsutables).

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I use the hand crank to set the points. I also made a bent wrench that will fit the front crank nut, and this helps to back the engine up if I should happen to go past the spot I want.