Solid State VR, OEM Look

Daddio

Daddio

Member
I posted this query in another forum and got '0' response ... I don't expect that will happen here. ;-) . The no reply may be because they see this as resolving a non-existing problem. And I can understand that, I've never had a problem with a VR either. Anyway let's give it a go ...
Q1: Has anyone replaced their voltage regulator with a solid state unit like the Wells VR715? https://www.amazon.com/WELLS-VEHICLE-ELECTRONICS-VR715-Regulator/dp/B0026N545A/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Q2: OR, better yet ... does anyone know of someone who can convert a standard VR to solid state? This way, it would look OEM yet perform modern day.
 
Daddio said:
I posted this query in another forum and got '0' response ... I don't expect that will happen here. ;-) . The no reply may be because they see this as resolving a non-existing problem. And I can understand that, I've never had a problem with a VR either. Anyway let's give it a go ...

Q1: Has anyone replaced their voltage regulator with a solid state unit like the Wells VR715? https://www.amazon.com/WELLS-VEHICLE-ELECTRONICS-VR715-Regulator/dp/B0026N545A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Q2: OR, better yet ... does anyone know of someone who can convert a standard VR to solid state? This way, it would look OEM yet perform modern day.
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Do you still have a GEN rather than an ALT?

The VR you showed is an aftermarket service replacement for an ALT.

Are you having trouble with the mechanical VR?
 
It seems you may be trying to fix something that is not broken. If the generator has been cleaned and the bearings, bushing, and commutator are good, the grounds are firm, and the regulator the same, it will give years of trouble free service. Drive it and smile!
 
Daddio said:
... I've never had a problem with a VR .....
OR, better yet ... does anyone know of someone who can convert a standard VR to solid state? This way, it would look OEM yet perform modern day.
Click to expand...
The only old school voltage regulator I ever had trouble with was one that got fried when someone hot-wired and stole the (OT) car. Found the car a block away with a dead battery.

Is this for the '56 T-Bird in your avatar photo?

I suspect the usual life expectancy of a good electro/mechanical voltage regulator might nearly be measured in decades, why change it?

In theory the solid state version may last longer, but they can be less forgiving of faulty wiring. (Poof)
Not a compelling reason to change.

You might be able to find a solid state version that will fit into an old-school housing but, enclosing it in a new/different way may cause it to overheat which would defeat the goal of having it work reliably.

Since you want it to look OEM... save an old cover you like and put it on an original style replacement, if you ever need to.
.
 
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I knew I could count on you guys for input!
This isn't for my TBird, but my Caddy. The Bird runs perfectly, touch wood.
Both run their original charging systems. But all of last year I was getting fluctuating lights at idle on the Caddy. This spring it wouldn't start, even though I had the battery on a maintainer all winter.
The batteries are the same age, about 10 years old ... both are those EXPENSIVE repop tar tops.
I was expecting better life from a (properly maintained) AGM battery .. at least similar life to it's twin brother in the Bird.
Anyway, after I posted this, I went out and bought a new non-repop battery and the fluctuating lights stopped. It was the battery, but I'm still wondering if the VR caused the early (I know, 10 years isn't bad) failure.
Now I just have to start saving my pennies for a new repop battery, maybe two. ouch
 
Daddio said:
I knew I could count on you guys for input!

This isn't for my TBird, but my Caddy.
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:eek:

!!! WE'VE BEEN USED !!!

...i feel so dirty... so used... :(​

You had us speak of {{{shudder}}} GM... Even worse DELCO-MORON...

Now I will have to wash my mouth out with carb cleaner (MOTORCRAFT to be specific).

:D

I'm just kidding of course. Glad you found what you needed.
 
Daddio said:
But all of last year I was getting fluctuating lights at idle on the Caddy. This spring it wouldn't start, even though I had the battery on a maintainer all winter.

The batteries are the same age, about 10 years old ... both are those EXPENSIVE repop tar tops.

I was expecting better life from a (properly maintained) AGM battery .. at least similar life to it's twin brother in the Bird.

Anyway, after I posted this, I went out and bought a new non-repop battery and the fluctuating lights stopped. It was the battery, but I'm still wondering if the VR caused the early (I know, 10 years isn't bad) failure.
Now I just have to start saving my pennies for a new repop battery, maybe two. ouch
Click to expand...

You know, I have read across the internet where some of these repros are not actually what they are rated at. And many have closed their doors.

The one supposedly remaining is a manufacturer of many brands, including modern MOTORCRAFT. I used to drive OTR and picked up a load of FREIGHTLINER branded batteries for a dealer. There were several MOTORCRAFT boxes laying on the floor.

Let us know what you come across in your search. There are also BATTERY tops that lay over a regular battery to give the appearance of OEM.

Any chance of a photo of the CADDY?
 
Daddio said:
..... It was the battery, but I'm still wondering if the VR caused the early (I know, 10 years isn't bad) failure. ...
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10 years? I'm impressed!!! You were lucky it only faded out on you. This one was 5 years old and came to me in my '55 Bird. It was doing temporary duty in my OT 4x4 when it exploded.
Caused a few hundred dollars worth of damage.
 

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Batteries have always been a lot more questionable than the charging system components. They don't like to set idle at all. The process of building sulfation starts as soon as the battery becomes idle and builds internal crystalline structures on the plates until they are completely overcome. A large amp draw on a regular basis will knock a lot of the sulfation off and keep the function up to par.


I use solid state VCU units on the helicopters but the good ones are expensive. Many of them are 24-volt so they wouldn't be practical on a car unless a person just wanted a bullet proof unit and was willing to pay for it. There are 12-volt units for smaller airplanes and helicopters but the charging system wiring would require some modification and the VCU would have to match the amp capacity of the alternator as was mentioned previously.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys! To answer a couple of Q's:
I usually get more than 10 years out of my batteries. I make sure that after every drive I disconnect the ground and hook up my maintainer.
Here's the link to the repop battery I'm considering: http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/batteries/gm/60K-Delco.html
Here's a pic of my Caddy. Ford-only guys, turn your heads, don't look!!
 

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Yeah, that is the vendor I was thinking of.

Black hard rubber case with "DELCO" in raised letters on the side,
POLY-TAR top with "DELCO" yellow/black caps. 100% CORRECT
Click to expand...

- BEAUTIFUL CADILLAC! :D -

359030
​

I love all cars from that period.

I almost bought a 56 CHEV for my first car. I would have most likely been a BOW-TIE BOY had I bought it instead of a 60 SUNLINER.
 
Who doesn't love tri-five Chevys. but at any show there's a swarm of them, not very unique. Your Sunliner was a much better choice!
 
Daddio said:
Who doesn't love tri-five Chevys. but at any show there's a swarm of them, not very unique. Your Sunliner was a much better choice!
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When I was young... :rolleyes:

The teenager across the street had a 57 CHEV (new). The teenager next door a 57 FORD. One block over a 55 PLYM. Those were great days as far as cars went.

I have taken a lot of flack over the years being a FORD aficionado but a man has to believe in his convictions... :cool:

I was tempted but saw the light and found the truth. Later, when I moved up to a 64 GALAXY 500 390 4S there was no doubt I was a believer.

But for the most part, if you wanted a hot street car, GM and MOPAR offered them off the showroom floor. If you wanted a hot FORD, you had to build it.
 
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