Solder v lead please advise.

G

Gino

Senior Member
Let me recap. I have a very difficult body repair. It is located at the top of the rear window 31" pickup. Well of course I would love to cut out the metal and put a new piece there but I can't find any one to fabricate the piece. I had a plumber friend come over and we tinkered with some slider on a scrap piece. I was surprised as to how well it adhered to the metal. So, is this a good way to approach this matter, solder or unleaded lead. Thanks for you time, I just want what's best for A.
 
solid core solder will work, ive used that for tinning pieces i want to led, 60-40 led is best but if you dont have experience using it it can be hard, solder can be even harder to use because of its lower melting point, it is difficult to keep it where its needed
 
I haven't used any body lead in a looong time, ('70's), but the alloy is critical, you need a very wide plastic range. Good body solder is 25 or 35% tin, 75 or 70% lead. It has a higher melting point than any electrical or plumbing sweat solder and a workable 'putty' consistency that you shape and smooth with a wood tool. If you have tinned and applied any other alloy you will have to get it ALL off. If you don't, the lower melting solder used for tinning will go 100% liquid under the body solder and you will not be able to tool it. It would be like putting oil an metal and then trying to spread bondo.

Does your plumber friend know how to do a lead 'wiped' joint between solid lead and steel pipe? The body solder alloy works like that, but is harder when cold, permitting smooth filing with a set of vixens.
 
Today there is the miracle of glue, I just fixed a big hole in the floor of my friends Mercedes, the area was sandblasted, a piece of metal formed to fit and glued in, now many body panels on cars are glued not welded, you can make a piece to fit inside, cover it with glue, clamp it in, the xcess will ooze through the holes, trim it off ---much easier than lead ---although the dust won't taste as sweet as lead dust.
 
Gino, you have one thing working for you, that is that the damaged panel has very strong shape. Compound curve vs flat. If you try this your self and use solder to tin with it must be acid core solder. You can buy tinning paste at TIP and Eastwood. You need to get 70/30 lead. 70%lead, 30% tin. You can make a lead paddle to spread the lead out of a chunk of hard wood. If you use a oxy/acetalyne torch, you need a "soft" flame,ie a long soft acetalyne flame, just short of giving off heavy black soot. If you use propane, it won't be hot enough to be a problem. Remember to put the heat where you want the lead to go. This more than I've sad in years. Any typo's are the fault of this tablet. Good luck, Larry
 
I would send a PM to Flop (Flops Customs) here on the board, I am sure that he will give you some advice.
 
Thanks everyone. I'll try to get the right stuff and practice on some really bad fenders I have stored. I want you guys to know that mechanically I'm ok. The body work has me frightened. I hope to have the truck completed in a couple of months, I'll post pics if I can. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for introducing me to Flop, I believe he is going to fabricate a piece for the truck. My prayers are answered.
 
Gino, Glad to help, Flop is one of the most friendly, creative, helpful guys that I haven't met yet. He always takes some time to respond and liberally shares information. I follow his threads here that he posts doing his rebuilds. Lots of good info for anyone doing a build.
 
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