Socket size needed for Crank???

B

Banky

Senior Member
What is the correct socket size to remove the nut off the front of the crank to replace the pulley?

Thanks.
 
Rusty is correct with 1 3/8", unless someone installed a later bolt with the smaller hex.

Yesterday I bought a double box wrench with 1 3/8" and 1 5/16", and there is quite a bit of offset at each end, but I need to heat it to add even more offset to make it work on the Model A.
 
Reminder-sockets that size will require a larger drive rachet(most folks will only own a 1/2" drive/ so the specialy wrench for the A suppliers is the way to go ;)
 
Like Rusty said, there are 1-3/8" sockets with 1/2"drive. I have several. If you get a shallow one, it will fit with the engine in the car, then stab a 1/2" extention thru the crank hole and there you can put your ratchet wrench on it in front of the radiator. I have a 24" ratchet that works real well when working by yourself. Lets you reach the wrench while watching other things.

Owning a Model A is the best excuse I know of to collect more tools!
 
Forgot to mention, you may need a deep socket. 1/2" drive deep impact 35mm sockets (0.003" larger than 1-3/8) are readily available at auto parts stores, as they fit a bunch of GM FWD and Budd axles. about $18.

Second point- in mid '31 through '38 the ratchet nut diameter and hex was reduced. If you have one of those it is probably 1-1/4" hex, a few were 1-5/16. You might want to check first.

I much prefer a socket and impact for nut removal/install, as the engine will not rotate. If you buy the funny bent wrench from a vendor, you'll have to block the crank to unscrew or tighten the nut.
 
MikeK said:
Forgot to mention, you may need a deep socket. 1/2" drive deep impact 35mm sockets (0.003" larger than 1-3/8) are readily available at auto parts stores, as they fit a bunch of GM FWD and Budd axles. about $18.

Second point- in mid '31 through '38 the ratchet nut diameter and hex was reduced. If you have one of those it is probably 1-1/4" hex, a few were 1-5/16. You might want to check first.

I much prefer a socket and impact for nut removal/install, as the engine will not rotate. If you buy the funny bent wrench from a vendor, you'll have to block the crank to unscrew or tighten the nut.
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Rather than try to block the engine, I lay the special wrench on the left side of the frame, then bump the starter with the key off. That will loosen the nut.
 
Tom, how do you tighten it? In gear and parking brake? That's an awful springy windup. I also have one of those wrenches, but only use it for timing and valve adjustments.
 
MikeK said:
Tom, how do you tighten it? In gear and parking brake? That's an awful springy windup. I also have one of those wrenches, but only use it for timing and valve adjustments.
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A couple smacks with a rubber mallet on the wrench tightens it OK. :)
 
In a "pinch" I've used an air hammer with a blunt chisel to tighten it. Just reach inside the back of the pulley spokes & catch it in a ratchet nut tooth, like, BRRRP! I use Loctite also. Bill W.
 
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