So hot in car

BobbyG

Senior Member
After 9 months of fixing the old coupe up - I had my longest drives this last few days and she is driving very nice indeed.

BUT ........... Oh my it is so hot in the car, is everyone's A as hot as mine ?

It is like being in a sauna - even with windows and screen open.

Were they always like this ?

Bob
 
Dynomat is your best freind with these cars. Insulate the friewall and floorboards. Yes they are hot, but can be made barable. I plan on insulating about everywhere on the delivery, not going to be cheap, but feel it will add greatly to its enjoyability. May even go as far as adding a "Vintage Air" unit at some point. Rod
 
The 2-45 air conditioner (two windows open and go 45 mph) was, and is, just about the best you can do if you want a real "A"
 
I've got the insulated firewall that the vendors sell, have insulated the kick panels with Dynomat AND another layer of batt insulation (don't remember the brand) will do the same to the doors, floor panels and back whenever I can get them opened up enough to do that without tearing the car clear apart.

All that helps for sound deadning also.

Ken Davis A/C will go in eventually.
 
BUT ........... Oh my it is so hot in the car, is everyone's A as hot as mine ?

It is like being in a sauna - even with windows and screen open.

Were they always like this ?

Bob

Yes.

We have gotten used to having A/C in home, car, office, church, so it makes the difference feel greater.

I remember as a kid driving with my aunt and uncle on vacation at night to avoid driving in the heat (no A/C). The car also ran cooler. The church had big fans and all the windows open.

I know Dynamat helps deaden sound. I am not sure if it is intended to be thermal insulation. They might have two products, one for sound and one for heat. Adding insulation where it is hidden is a good thing.

Look for hot air leaking in through the firewall, around the steering column and pedals, that sort of thing, and seal it up.
 
I put some fiber glass house insulation in small plastic grocery bags and stuffed them up behind the dash/gas tank and in the kick panels . Unbelievable how much heat and sound it knocked out .
 
After 9 months of fixing the old coupe up - I had my longest drives this last few days and she is driving very nice indeed.

BUT ........... Oh my it is so hot in the car, is everyone's A as hot as mine ?

It is like being in a sauna - even with windows and screen open.

Were they always like this ?

Bob

I drive year round in South Florida and the temp is fine with the windows open. Get an A/C if you must.
 
Thanks all - I don't want to go the AC route - I will look at stopping up some of the gaps and put some insulation in the kick panels etc

It is not ambient temps it is the heat from the engine bay that is the issue.
 
You are correct Bobbyg. Coupes are hot!. Had the same experience a few weeks ago on a 75 mile drive in our 29. But here is Oregon, a little heat is better that all the rain we have a good share of the time. Did you turn on the built in air conditioner(front window open)?
 
I am restoring a '31 coupe and have thought about installing some sort of fan behind the seats. Could be on top of the package shelf or underneath it. Has anyone tried something like this?
 
I have a 30 Sport Coupe. I sealed all the holes in the firewall and floor but have not added any insulation. With all four windows open, as long as the car is moving, it is quite comfortable.
 
There is a solution that the ‘old timers’ used during the early days of the automobile. Sometime in the 1950’s, an ‘old timer’ who grew up with the automobiles (1910-1930), told me how it was done in those early days.
There are three necessary component parts to this very basic ‘air conditioner’, and a couple of adjustments to your car, that are needed to make this system work. First item, 1 bucket of cold water (some use ice in the water). Second and third items: two bath-towels.
Now as to the necessary ‘adjustments’ to your car that are needed : All windows MUST be closed. That is except the windshield, which is to be opened about an inch or two : exact adjustment will be determined by the thickness of the next step in the process.
The bucket of cold (ice) water is to be placed on the floorboard, between the legs of the front-seat passenger. Into this water bucket are placed the two bath-towels. Now wring out one of the wet towels, leaving lots of wet moisture in it, and lay it horizontally across the top of the cowl’s Dash Rail, and below the bottom of the opened windshield. Adjust the windshield to make a tight fit with the towel, allowing no hot air from outside.
As the outside hot air passes through the cold wet towel, it will provide cool air to the interior of the car. This should be good for about 15 minutes (depending on how hot it is outside, and how fast you are driving). Once this towel has dried out and lost it’s ‘cool’, wring out the second towel (which has been floating in the cold ice water) and exchange it for the dried-out towel above the dash rail.
This system has a PROVEN history of successful cooling of the interior of the car. Each user also has the opportunity to ‘tweek’ the methodology to suit his/her own preferences. Some like to have some kind of cover for the water bucket, to minimize the sloshing water that will try to escape the bucket and make a mess on the floorboard. Once you too begin to utilize this amazingly simple ‘air conditioner’, you can adjust the system to suit your own needs and preferences.
It should be noted, that while this system WILL WORK, it does have a definite life span. As the cold water in the bucket becomes less, and less cold, so does your ‘air conditioning’ system.
I have only used this set-up twice in the 60 years that I have been driving Ford Model As. For most of us, and for most of the time, this historic link to an earlier (and primitive) solution to a problem is just ‘not worth the effort or hassle’.
There are many aspects to ‘living history’ that driving the Model A can allow us to learn from. This is one of them - a small esoteric footnote that is of little consequence, but fun to know never-the-less. And did I point out - IT DOES WORK !


 
just did 1500 miles . hot here -90-100* . the trick I have heard is "1/4" crematorium insulation" ...........
 
While they can get a bit warm, I've found the Tudor to be tolerable with the rear windows down, as well as the front windows and windshield open.

On a related note, I've found these late summer evenings - just before and after sunset - to be perfect for driving the A. The air is beginning to cool and the traffic is lessened. Makes for a delightful hour or two of motoring!
 
hmm didnt think it could get much worse than vynal city in my chevette... burn yoru thumbs turning the key, burn your hand on the gearshift, burn your hands on the wheel haha while your butt and back of your calf's are burning its only got 2.5 55ac....

yea i would go with some hidden insulation and get used to it. can always wear a bandanna around your head that you got wet and stuck in the freezer. they make ones with little ice pouches in them - they do wonders at my work where its 100+*F inside with no air movement...

or bring a cooler with ice and water in it or popsicles haha
 
Does your coupe have a rumble seat? Purdy Swoft once mentioned that on his daughter's rumble seat coupe, if she left the rumble open, it "scooped" air & it came in to the passenger area from the rear & made it cooler inside. Bill W.
 
So that's maybe why I see so many open rumble lids even when nobody is in the rumble seat. But, why the open lid on a Roadster when no one's in the seat? Maybe it's an air brake to hold back all the horsepower.:D:p
 
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