Snyder's new brake pedal return spring

Barber31 said:
I used one and my light still stays on sometimes.
Hi Jwilli. Welcome to the Fordbarn.
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Besides slack in the brake rods causing the brake pedal not to rise properly, If the cross shaft isn't set up correctly you will still have a problem. The plunger on the rear end of the pedal rod should be adjusted so that there is no more than a 1/16 gap between the plunger and the inner rear of the center crossmember with the clevis adjusted so that the pin will just enter the pin hole in the brake pedal with the pedal at the top of its travel. It is usually necessary to disconnect the brake rods to obtain this adjustment. After this adjustment is made , prop up the pedal and adjust all of the slack out of the brake rods and reconnect so that the pins will just slip into place If the brakes are in reasonable condition and adjusted you will have brakes that will stop on a dime and the pedal will rise to the top every time. If the aftermarket spring is necessary for the pedal to return, you will never have brakes that operate at optimum level. Working on and fixing such problems is part of the fun of owning the model A and its really not that difficult.
 
Mitch//PA : ". . . a band aide fix . . . "
_________________________________

Band Aides are sometimes an important part of the healing process. Especially when it will be awhile until you get to the Doctor/Hospital. And if the 'band aide' will get you by, and you are content with the solution, then a 'band aide' can be a usefull tool.

Very few of us are in such excellent health that we do not ever need a 'band aide'. Time, effort, knowledge and money required for a more comprehensive and 'correct' operation may be more than some of us can manage. At such times, a 'band aide' may be the more prudent choice, as opposed to leaving the 'wound' open.

- Doug Vieyra, Eureka, Calif.
Under-Surgeon, Model A Hospital
Eureka FORD Plant
 
DougVieyra said:
Mitch//PA : ". . . a band aide fix . . . "
_________________________________

Band Aides are sometimes an important part of the healing process. Especially when it will be awhile until you get to the Doctor/Hospital. And if the 'band aide' will get you by, and you are content with the solution, then a 'band aide' can be a usefull tool.

Very few of us are in such excellent health that we do not ever need a 'band aide'. Time, effort, knowledge and money required for a more comprehensive and 'correct' operation may be more than some of us can manage. At such times, a 'band aide' may be the more prudent choice, as opposed to leaving the 'wound' open.

- Doug Vieyra, Eureka, Calif.
Under-Surgeon, Model A Hospital
Eureka FORD Plant
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would it be better to close//heal the wound than to cover it?
 
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With all due respect, getting under the car or possibly removing the floorboards to install the pedal spring really isn't that much more difficult than revoving the five clevis pins and adjusting the five brake rod and pedal rod clevises . After the simple adjustments , if the brakes are in reasonable condition the owner would end up with good brakes and the pedal would always return to the top of travel. Mechanical brakes are simple if a person takes the time to think about how they work. Slack in the brake rods and improper setup of the service brake cross shaft is probably the main cause of poor mechanical brakes. If the brakes are worn to the point of metal to metal contact within the drums its then time to consider a complete brake overhaul , otherwise a common sense adjustment of the brake rods and cross shaft will make an amazing ,world of difference . Some spend large sums replacing drums and just about every part available, then fail to set up the rods and cross shaft correctly and still end up with brakes that are very little if any better than they were to start with . There is enough bad info in a certain mechanics hand book that many try to follow that causes them to never have good brakes, no matter how much that they spend .
 
Do the members feel this device significantly increases the foot pressure needed to work the brake pedal?
 
Purdy Swoft said:
With all due respect, getting under the car or possibly removing the floorboards to install the pedal spring really isn't that much more difficult than revoving the five clevis pins and adjusting the five brake rod and pedal rod clevises . After the simple adjustments , if the brakes are in reasonable condition the owner would end up with good brakes and the pedal would always return to the top of travel. Mechanical brakes are simple if a person takes the time to think about how they work. Slack in the brake rods and improper setup of the service brake cross shaft is probably the main cause of poor mechanical brakes. If the brakes are worn to the point of metal to metal contact within the drums its then time to consider a complete brake overhaul , otherwise a common sense adjustment of the brake rods and cross shaft will make an amazing ,world of difference . Some spend large sums replacing drums and just about every part available, then fail to set up the rods and cross shaft correctly and still end up with brakes that are very little if any better than they were to start with . There is enough bad info in a certain mechanics hand book that many try to follow that causes them to never have good brakes, no matter how much that they spend .
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I'm sincerely curious to know what book that is, I'd like to know what to avoid......
 
I don't want to hurt anybodies feelings. I'll just say that its the only one that is titled mechanics hand book. The book isn't totally bad, it has some good info and lots of usefull pics. There are several mistakes throughout the book that could have been corrected over the years but have not been. Some are confusing stuff that was copied out of the service buletins. One of the worse mistakes concerning brakes is listing an exact length that the brake rods must be adjusted to. This info was listed in the service buletins in a confusing way but pertained to the early brake setup. I tried to point out that mistake here for sometime to no avail. Some would just go to the service buletins and quote the confusing info. If Marco hadn't came on and also pointed out the actual facts about brake rod setup, and the confusing statements in the buletins NOBODY would have ever believed what I had tried so hard to point out, Some never will !!! You first really need to actually know something about how mechanical brakes work before taking this book for gospel . In the days when I was growing up with model A's the older guys would point out facts about maintaining the model A to me. I still try and help people with my experience with model A's .
 
purdy i commend you for giving out good information and preaching it over and over and i know the feeling of talikng to the wall at times as if it never seems to be absorbed by others. kind of like doing a proper driveability diagnosis to determine if it is spark, fuel, mechanical or operator error.
some will continue to purchase band aides when in reality all it needed was a free adjustment per your instructions which seems to be talked about weekly
 
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JackA said:
Has anyone had experiance with the new design brake pedal return spring from Snyder's?
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Yes, I used one years ago before I knew much about model A brakes. It will make the pedal rise to the top but doesn't help the brakes or solve the real problem. Good luck.
 
you asked a simple question and got the facts in return. thats what is suppossed to happen people helping people.
if you had a bad brake booster causing the pedal not to return on your modern car, what would be the best thing to do? replace the booster or install a return spring on the pedal?
 
Mitch//pa said:
purdy i commend you for giving out good information and preaching it over and over and i know the feeling of talikng to the wall at times as if it never seems to be absorbed by others. kind of like doing a proper driveability diagnosis to determine if it is spark, fuel, mechanical or operator error.
some will continue to purchase band aides when in reality all it needed was a free adjustment per your instructions which seems to be talked about weekly
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Thanks, Mitch for understanding where I'm coming from . I know that its a waste of time but will probably keep on doing it for the hell of it if nothing else . There may actually be some that really want to fix their brakes and will take the time to do it. You are without a doubt one of the best of the good guys on this forum .
 
Purdy thanks much for the kind words, and also for all you contribute. its great that there are so many that offer the time to help others. its also great to meet many experienced people in one place to share thoughts and wisdom.
 
Greetings all. Just read through the above. Sorry to revive an old post, but Im new to this, as I just got my Model A last week. My tail light staying on if the brake doesnt fully return. I'm having a hard time visualizing this install with the limited diagram that came with the part from Macs. Part A2455ACC. Can anyone snap a photo or post a short video on how this looks. Also should this be done from under the car or from above? Thanks in advance.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
It looks just like the spring setup that has been offered by many suppliers for many years but isn't original equipment. If the service brake cross shaft and brake rods are setup correct, the pedal will always return and you will have brakes that you didn't know that you had. Setup is a major part of having really good brakes .
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A true mechanic adds logic to the thread. Thanks Purdy!
Wayne
 
I have one on the brake but may go for one on the clutch also. The clutch pedal doesn't always return all the way so I get my left foot under it and pull it up. With more freeplay it works better but the clutch grabs more.
 
Been around a long time. Sure like to buy a dozen for 3.00 today. Harv.
 

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Yes. I know where to get the part and how much it costs. Already have it and the same instructions. Looking for pics of actual install and or video. Also should this be done from under the car or from above? Thanks.
 
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