Snyder’s 6:1 head

Killerbee

Killerbee

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Snyder’s 6:1 head

Is anyone running a Snyder’s 6:1 head? I recently put one on my 30A and have had nothing but problems. I’m on my 3rd head gasket and the car runs rough as hell. I’m not new at putting head gaskets on and never has this many issues.I’ve warmed up cooled down and retorqued 3 times before driving. My timing is set correctly and I even retarted the timing a little to avoid pre ignition. It idles fine revs fine but when I drive it feels like bricks in a drier. The engine is healthy and never had any issues with the stock head. I one step away from putting the OEM head back on. I really hope I didn’t hurt my engine with this head.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

Before you installed it did you have it checked for being straight? You should.

I am running the same head. The machine shop said it was far from straight and the areas under the nuts had to be machined. Others have said that it should be machined.

With this head it is definitely needs more playing around with the advance lever. On hills it really needs to be retarded.

With this head you can not use the FSI Zipper distributor.

I love the head and it makes a heck of a difference in power over the original 4.2.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

I did run a level across it and the block didn’t see anything out of the ordinary but that’s with the naked eye. You shouldn’t have to machine a new head flat. I was going to go with the 5.5.1 but for the same price I went with the 6:1 now I’m regretting it. Snyder’s will be getting a call again Monday.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

Put a 6.1 head from Snyders on my car in my avatar. Runs great and never had a problem. I am running a "B" distributor now, but never had a problem with the stock advance and retard arm. I know you said the timing was right, but i would double check. Just my 2 1/2 cents.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

I installed one of these 6:1 heads a couple years ago. I cleaned the block surface of all old gasket material then placed the head on the bare block. The head was warped about 0.013"! They offered to send me a new head (probably also warped) after I paid return shipping and waited another three weeks. I suggested machining it locally and they pay the bill. They agreed and everything was installed. The machine shop verified my crude measurements. That "premium" recommended head gasket with the silicone failed shortly. Replacing with a copper gasket solved the problem. I have to also play with spark advance on heavy pulls to keep the spark knock from happening. I read somewhere about the need to retard timing a bit when adding compression and I am presently timed like a stock engine. I like the power and the mileage and I'm sure the old original head would be a pain to live with now.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

No the chamber size is 152cc noticeably shallower than a stock head and not heart shaped like the 5.5.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

I installed the 6-1 head 4 years ago, no issues, the rebuilder told me to use the head gasket brand called (Best) and use Permatex Hi tack.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

Well it sounds like some are good and some are bad from what I’m reading in posts. I got a bad one if they’ll take it back it’s going back. So I’m out 4 head gaskets 3 blown a 4th to put the original head back on and the cost of shipping twice. All that adds up to about the cost of the junk head to begin with.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

Run new chrome moly studs and nuts,torque to 60 lbs.Posting a picture of the failed head gasket would help..

the engine in my avatar has a shaved snyder 5.5,.002 piston reliefs...zero piston protrusion the quench area (margin between the piston and head) is gasket crush.

Timing is critical to proper performance,adjusting the spark by hand robs performance by missing the proper advance as rpm rises,the model a engine performs best at 1 degree per 100 rpm. Improper timing can lead to center main bearing failure from detonation (ping)and can cause noises indistinguishable from a mechanical issue, at 4.2 to 1 the engine is tolerant of timing deviation,at 6 to 1 it isnt.Combustion chamber shape of the 6 to 1 is not an issue. Its also important to measure piston protrusion,the height the piston crown exceeds the top of the deck.I use modern sealants to 'fill' bad spots in a head or deck,just a light smear helps cure water issues.



Todd Buttermore does good work,and Snyder stands behind what he sells.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

Well I’m over it and too many other people have had the same issue. I shouldn’t have to resurface a new head. I would expect that from a swap meet head not a new one. Everything was properly prepped torqued warmed cooled retorqued with the same issue. The gasket seems to blow on different spots every time either it’ll leak coolant into the cylinder or blow exhaust out of the side obviously there is an issues with this head. I’m not doing it a fourth time.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

When youre done youre done,I can relate to that.Good luck,call Snyder,give them a shot at making it good.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

Killerbee said:
I did run a level across it and the block didn’t see anything out of the ordinary but that’s with the naked eye. You shouldn’t have to machine a new head flat. I was going to go with the 5.5.1 but for the same price I went with the 6:1 now I’m regretting it. Snyder’s will be getting a call again Monday.
Click to expand...

A basic rule is to never assume anything. Measure it! After the first gasket blew your troubleshooting should have included a trip to a machine shop to have the head checked with a machinist's straight edge. A carpenter's level won't cut it!
How about the block surface? Have you verified that it is true? Again, you can't just assume.
 
Re: Snyder’s 6:1 head

Very often cast iron warps as it ages. I have 2 cars with MT CAR cast iron brake drums and they always need to be skimmed when new.

I have a 5.5 Snyder head that I have used for 25,000mi and no problems. I had it checked before I put it on and it needed skimmed. I also check heads any time I remove them.

John
 
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