Snyder Head Gaskets

ivoryjohn

ivoryjohn

Senior Member
I bought the 5.5:1 High Compression head from Snyder's and the recommended premium head gasket, b-6051-M. Is there an issue torquing the head bolts to 50lbs. for a new engine start up and not cracking the water neck flanges because of the thicker head gasket? I really don't have this pictured in my head to understand why the thickness of the head gasket would cause a problem with the water neck gasket. If I don't use a gasket on the water neck and just use silicone gasket sealer with a match stem what is the problem?

When my friend mentioned the likely hood of breaking off the "ears" I began to worry that the old match trick might not be enough to compensate for the additional thickness of the new thicker head gasket. I've read in passed posts that people used regular "A" head gaskets and they were just fine with Snyder 5.5:1 heads. I would like to at least start off with the recommended gasket before I start going my own way and throwing caution to the wind.

Am I over thinking things again? Damn why didn't I listen to Henry!
 
The head gasket has nothing to do with the water neck breaking. Just use a little permatex on the water neck and no gasket and you will be fine.
 
TinCup said:
The head gasket has nothing to do with the water neck breaking. Just use a little permatex on the water neck and no gasket and you will be fine.
Click to expand...

I hear you. What the heck did I not hear when my friend expressed concern over using the thicker head gasket and risking breaking the ears off if he torqued to the correct number of pounds? I could not figure out what the head gasket has to do with the neck. He must be talking about the copper gasket I bought for the neck.

I swear I must be getting Old Timers Disease because I couldn't have heard my friend right. Of the two of us I would bet on him knowing what we were doing. Oh me, maybe he forgot to take his little green pill again. One of us is drain bamaged.
 
I used the same gasket and torqued the head to 60 lbs. As she leaked at 55 lbs. On the goose neck I just used the regular gasket that came with a gasket kit. Be sure to check the head as I retorqued three times and has not leaked since.

Mike
 
I think you will find that you need to use a B head gasket not and A with that Snyder head.The head is a copy of the B police head and requires the B gasket which is wider between 2 and 3 cyl.Check the fit with the the B gasket it works much better.
 
old1928fordguy said:
I think you will find that you need to use a B head gasket not and A with that Snyder head.The head is a copy of the B police head and requires the B gasket which is wider between 2 and 3 cyl.Check the fit with the the B gasket it works much better.
Click to expand...

My apologies to all. I did buy the recommended "B" head gasket and it has been installed taking heed of the instructions to not use any sealer etc. and "This side up." No problems exist now. Only my excuses and embarrassed grin.

My problem came from hearing my friend question the copper gasket for the head being so thick the ears on the water neck might break if he torqued them down to 60 lbs. Thinking that he meant the head gasket I told him the gasket was absolutely meant for the Snyder head and I wanted to use it if we could. He was talking about the copper water neck gasket I had supplied he didn't think we needed to use. Instead of clearing my questions up with him and risking revealing I am an idiot, I worried about them all afternoon and turned them over to the Ford Barn.

Thanks to all that answered politely and tolerated my dumb question.
 
The headgasket, no matter wherther you use the silicon gasket or a copper gasket does not have any effect on the water neck flanges.

The gasket you use on the water neck is what can affect the ear flanges breaking. Using a copper gasket does not (usually) put you in jeopardy of breaking the ears. Using silicon or Permatex does not (usually) put you in jeopardy of breaking the ears. Using a paper gasket on a new head and a water neck that is dry does not (usually) put you in jeopardy of breaking the ears. The ears tend to break when a paper gasket gets wet and then squishes out of place when the water neck is torqued down and small amount of difference (just a few thousands) between the main part of the flange and the ears in a cast iron fitting causes the ears to snap off. Even though I used silicon gasket sealant on my water neck I still cring when I torque those two studs.
 
HEY: I want to know some thing. If he had aa problem with the head gasket. My q is I need to take the head gasket off so I can put on a longer stud for a original popuot mine is to short. But do I have to take the water pump off to or can I leave it on. I know I have to put on a new head gasket but do I have to take the water pump off. Some one told me I don't need to take the pump off I want to know if this true. I was going to take it off till he told me I didn't need to take the pump off. So what is true
 
reggiedog said:
HEY: I want to know some thing. If he had aa problem with the head gasket. My q is I need to take the head gasket off so I can put on a longer stud for a original popuot mine is to short. But do I have to take the water pump off to or can I leave it on. I know I have to put on a new head gasket but do I have to take the water pump off. Some one told me I don't need to take the pump off I want to know if this true. I was going to take it off till he told me I didn't need to take the pump off. So what is true
Click to expand...

You can take the head off without taking off the water pump. I did..... Just be careful when lifting if up that the fan blade does not hit your radiator.

Tom....
 
I bought the 5.5:1 High Compression head from Snyder's and the recommended premium head gasket, b-6051-M.
The gasket you purchased is the correct gasket for the Snyder head. Follow 1930artdeco's advice and re-torque at least three times. Some suggest otherwise but I suggest to re-torque with the engine cold. Once these gaskets settle in they are very good. You shouldn't need to torque over 55ftlb to get a seal if the deck is flat.
 
No need to remove the water pump or the rad. Just drain coolant, remove the upper hose, remove the hood, lean the rad forward, PLACE A PIECED OF CARDBOARD BETWEEN THE FAN AND THE RAD in order to protect the rad. and away you go.

Have fun

Dick
 
Are you removing the head JUST to remove the one stud? Have you tried a SnapOn stud remover? You may be able to change the one stud without removing the head. Or, if you aren't going for points, you could go without the cable being clamped down, at least until the head needed to come off for another reason.
 
IF you have a 2 blade fan, you can get the head off without removing the pump. With some other fan, you will have to move the radiator forward.
 
I have to put a new head gasket on mine has a crack in the head gasket and yes that is the only stud I have to take out. let me know thanks reggiedog
 
If you need a new head gasket, then you can double nut the stud to remove it, or just use a vise grips. I prefer the double nut method.
 
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