Snapped head stud....
- Thread starter 1936 ford pickup
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Vics Stuff
Senior Member
Pull the head off to expose the stud. Do not attempt to put vise grips on the remaining stud to unscrew.
You are going to need a torch or a inductive heating unit to get the stud red hot then quench the stud. Then weld a nut on the stud. This will enable you to unscrew the stud out of the block. This process is going to take time but you do not want to cause more work than necessary.
Post some pics of what you have.
Vic
You are going to need a torch or a inductive heating unit to get the stud red hot then quench the stud. Then weld a nut on the stud. This will enable you to unscrew the stud out of the block. This process is going to take time but you do not want to cause more work than necessary.
Post some pics of what you have.
Vic
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Bruce:
You are lucky that you have so much stud left. A very common way to do this is to MIG weld a nut to the stud. The heat created by the weld also helps to loosen the rust bond and the nut is secure enough to allow you back it out. Sometimes it takes 2-3 tries to get it, but this method has worked for me and others countless times.
Good luck,
Tim
You are lucky that you have so much stud left. A very common way to do this is to MIG weld a nut to the stud. The heat created by the weld also helps to loosen the rust bond and the nut is secure enough to allow you back it out. Sometimes it takes 2-3 tries to get it, but this method has worked for me and others countless times.
Good luck,
Tim
rockfla
Well-known member
A little different take on what has already been posted. First - its best to pull the head back off. second - I would try a stud installer/remover socket on it first before resorting to welding a nut to it. Be somewhat careful to not pull too hard as it is possible to snap whats left of the stud off SO don't get too hammer fisted with it (ask me how I know this!!!). IF you feel like its too much force to get it to break loose....Then MIG weld a over sized hex nut (one that will slide over the 7/16 NF thread) that way you have a nice little space for a good weld bead around the diameter of the nut/stud. I, personally, like to weld a larger flat washer on one side of the nut then slide mine down close to the block and weld the other side around the stud to help get the pull/torque of removing it down as close to the block as possible....it seems the higher away from the end the more chance for it to snap off from the pull/torque of the breaker bar. The washer also helps as a little spacer and protector of the block. I am also of the mind that try and ONLY weld what you have to and "limit" too much heat AS "IF" this doesn't work and you break it again then it's REALLY hard...work and heat hardened....AND much harder to drill out at that point!!! JMO
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1936 ford pickup
Senior Member
THANK YOU to everyone that has replied back to me on this snapped head stud issue. I will remove head and I do have a Heat Induction Tool and a stud extractor tool. If that does not work then I will install flat washer and oversize nut and weld.
THANK YOU,
Bruce
THANK YOU,
Bruce
rockfla
Well-known member
ALSO just a note too....IF you end up welding....cover the area around you pretty good JUST IN CASE you get any weld splatter!!!! OR make sure you dip your MIG and or Anti splatter spray it!!!!
DON"T forget to seal the threads on the new stud install too!!!!
DON"T forget to seal the threads on the new stud install too!!!!
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drolston
Well-known member
I started useing a breaker bar to remove head bolts on my old 59A/B block, and broke four studs on the driver side. Switched to a battery powered impact wrench on the passenger side. Started at the lowest of three power settings. Alternated two seconds of loosening with one second of tightening numerous times. Then went to the medium power setting and repeated the alternate short burst of tightening with longer burst of loosening. All head nuts came off with no broken studs. I had to go the highest power setting on only one head nut. The machine shop removed the broken studs and replaced the threads. Of course the heads went back on with all new studs.
If you go to the welded nut, maybe try this method.
If you go to the welded nut, maybe try this method.
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
Where did the stud come from? I think I would pull them all (assuming they are all new) and send them back to the vender and then find a better vender.
Charlie Stephens
Charlie Stephens
1936 ford pickup
Senior Member
Hi Charlie,
My flathead is a 46-48 and the studs have been in there since before I purchased the flathead in 2005.
Bruce
My flathead is a 46-48 and the studs have been in there since before I purchased the flathead in 2005.
Bruce
Flathead Fever
Well-known member
I broke a couple of them off taking a part a flathead and I was really careful to try and work them out without breaking them. At work we used to weld a nut onto broken exhaust manifold studs and that would take them right out. The weld sticks to the steel stud and nut but not to the cast iron block. So, I tried that, and it worked on one but not the other. The first one the welded nut broke off so while it was still hot, I melted some wax around the threads. Then I welded large thick washer to the broken stud and then welded the nut to the washer and that worked on that one. Even once it started moving it was tough, I had to carefully move it back and forth until it was finally out. That was the easy one.
The other one would not come out with a welded nut, I must have broken off six welded nuts before I gave up on that. I put the head back on and with a drill bushing in the hole I drilled an 1/8-hole dead center. the bushing keeps the bit centered. Then I just kept drilling the broken stud's hole bigger until I figured I was just about to the threads, and it came right out. and left the threads perfect. The trick is to be very-very patient when you drill it. You only have one chance of getting the bit centered.
The tool that took out the other 46 studs is made by Snap-op. It has interchangeable thread sizes. You pick the one you need and screw it on the threads and then tightened it, as tight as you can get it, it clamps onto the threads. Then with a 1/2" drive impact set to its lowest level you let it lightly hammer on the threads until they break loose. An old-time flathead builder told me that was the hot setup so I bought one.
The other one would not come out with a welded nut, I must have broken off six welded nuts before I gave up on that. I put the head back on and with a drill bushing in the hole I drilled an 1/8-hole dead center. the bushing keeps the bit centered. Then I just kept drilling the broken stud's hole bigger until I figured I was just about to the threads, and it came right out. and left the threads perfect. The trick is to be very-very patient when you drill it. You only have one chance of getting the bit centered.
The tool that took out the other 46 studs is made by Snap-op. It has interchangeable thread sizes. You pick the one you need and screw it on the threads and then tightened it, as tight as you can get it, it clamps onto the threads. Then with a 1/2" drive impact set to its lowest level you let it lightly hammer on the threads until they break loose. An old-time flathead builder told me that was the hot setup so I bought one.
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1936 ford pickup
Senior Member
Hello Flathead Fever,
THANK YOU for all the photos and good information.
Bruce
THANK YOU for all the photos and good information.
Bruce
