Assembling my B engine timing cover has led to a couple snags.
First the front pulley and rope seal. Front pulley appears to be a either a repro or a NOS judging by having no seal wear. Seal surface dial indicator runout is .010" with slinger in place and crank nut tightened. Inside diameter of pulley checks true with outside and inside measures 1.195". Crank snout measures 1.185" and the pulley obviously fits sloppy.
While I can bore out part of the pulley, press in a bushing and cut a closer fitting bore I've decided to "Farmer Fix" with a Coke can shim which happens to be .004" thick.
I'd really like to know the Ford crank snout diameter spec and the pulley ID spec and if repro pulleys tend to be sloppy/looser than original.
Got a new crank gear, new Stipe cam and a new aluminum cam gear. Installed with crank gear timing mark, near to keyway, a half tooth to the right, lined up with the cam gear dimple. With the engine at TDC the dimple doesn't line up with the timing cover timing hole. The dimple is just about one tooth past the timing hole.
My timing cover version has the timing hole boss that is oval shaped where it seems designed to have a different hole position.
I could put a new dimple in the cam gear or I could drill and tap a new timing hole, but I don't know if the pin is supposed to engage as a TDC or as a timing location that is some degrees off. Which is it??
Then I don't know if the timing dimples on these repro parts are correct.
I'm going to put an external pointer on and a TDC mark on the pulley so I can check with a strobe timing light, but I still need correct dimple location for setting the distributor the "A" way.
I'd like to check cam timing to verify. Without a degree wheel I think it's possible to be in the ballpark if I knew how far any one of the opening valves would be open just reaching TDC. Cam is a Snyder B-6250-N (Stipe 330). Anybody Know what I'm looking for and have the info?
Thanks,
Ray
First the front pulley and rope seal. Front pulley appears to be a either a repro or a NOS judging by having no seal wear. Seal surface dial indicator runout is .010" with slinger in place and crank nut tightened. Inside diameter of pulley checks true with outside and inside measures 1.195". Crank snout measures 1.185" and the pulley obviously fits sloppy.
While I can bore out part of the pulley, press in a bushing and cut a closer fitting bore I've decided to "Farmer Fix" with a Coke can shim which happens to be .004" thick.
I'd really like to know the Ford crank snout diameter spec and the pulley ID spec and if repro pulleys tend to be sloppy/looser than original.
Got a new crank gear, new Stipe cam and a new aluminum cam gear. Installed with crank gear timing mark, near to keyway, a half tooth to the right, lined up with the cam gear dimple. With the engine at TDC the dimple doesn't line up with the timing cover timing hole. The dimple is just about one tooth past the timing hole.
My timing cover version has the timing hole boss that is oval shaped where it seems designed to have a different hole position.
I could put a new dimple in the cam gear or I could drill and tap a new timing hole, but I don't know if the pin is supposed to engage as a TDC or as a timing location that is some degrees off. Which is it??
Then I don't know if the timing dimples on these repro parts are correct.
I'm going to put an external pointer on and a TDC mark on the pulley so I can check with a strobe timing light, but I still need correct dimple location for setting the distributor the "A" way.
I'd like to check cam timing to verify. Without a degree wheel I think it's possible to be in the ballpark if I knew how far any one of the opening valves would be open just reaching TDC. Cam is a Snyder B-6250-N (Stipe 330). Anybody Know what I'm looking for and have the info?
Thanks,
Ray