Sloppy steering dilemma

Dyna

Dyna

Member
My recently finished 1948 Merc restoration likes to wander from side to side while driving down the road. I have read several "steering adjustment" posts and read the Vanpelt article, so I thought I would try and tighten things up.
Here is the situation so far.
With wheels on the ground the free play in the steering wheel is about 2 inches to the left and about 4 inches to the right.
With wheels off the ground: almost two turns of the steering wheel from center to lock in both directions. Wheels start to turn right away when moving the steering wheel to the left or the right.
Drag link, king pins and pitman arm are good.
Am I correct to assume that the worm and the roller are contacting properly if the tires start to turn as soon as I move the steering wheel with tires off the ground? Would tightening the adjusting screw make any difference?
Any clues as to why there is such a difference in free play when the tires are on the ground versus off the ground? Anything else that could be adjusted to get rid of the sloppy steering?
Thanks
 
It could be a number of things. Starting at the wheels, are the wheel bearing tightened properly? Next, how tight are the king pins? Any slop there? Then check the tie rod ends for any movement? Then on to the drag link, pitman arm, wishbone mount and then the steering box. Even a very small amount of play/slop at each of this adds up fast to play at the wheel. Other areas to consider: shackles, pan bar, spring mounted securely, etc.
 
If you disconnect the drag link and lock the steering wheel in a straight ahead position, you can feel for play by moving the pitman arm. There should be no play in that position. Once the steering wheel is turned even a bit off center, it gets more and more play the farther off center it is turned and that is normal. This is the way they are designed. All play adjustments have to be performed in the straight ahead position. After all play has been adjusted out by drawing the sector gear closer to the worm gear, you should be able to rotate the steering shaft without any notchy movement to the shaft. If you can feel rough or notchy movement, then the worm or sector gear are badly worn and likely need replacement of whichever part or parts are worn out.
 
All that rotorwrench said is true, plus the the wheels and steering wheel need to be lined up in the straight ahead position. This is achieved by adjusting the length of the draglink. It sounds to me as this is a bit out and means you are in the area of play when driving straight. The easiest way is to drop the draglink of the steering box, lock steering wheel centered and wheels straight, adjust the length of draglink so that ball joint slips straight into pitman arm. Hope this helps.Tony.
 
Thank you all for the great input. Should I drop the draglink where it attaches to the pitman arm? Do I need a special tool for that? I have had the engine rebuilt and I am sure the mechanic had removed as much as he could under the motor so he could drop it out. Cotter pins are all new. Greg
 
Yes at the pitman arm as easier to see you have it right. Remove split pin and loosen nut a few turns, a ball joint cracker is good but they can be removed by hitting the side of the pitman arm were the taper of the ball joint goes through, leave the nut on as mention so the draglink does't fly out. don't hit nut or threads. An asssitant is handy as they can lever some weight with a bar onto the draglink . With the steering wheel in the straight ahead position jiggle the pitman arm a little play is ok if excessive ,more than 1/4 of an inch adjust the steering box with the nut on top of box. don't close it up to much as you don't want a tight spot. when thats ok loosen collar on draglink and wind ball joint in or out as needed. Have someone hold the steering wheel perfectly in the right spot or lock the steering with the key if fitted. Replace nut and tighten and fit a new split pin and you should be sweet. Tony
 
I would start with this. It's the easiest and may fix you up without disconnecting the drag link. Did mine.

 
Glad you brought this up. I am going to assume its the sector shaft that the pitman arm attaches to. Mine moves up and down as you turn the steering wheel. Will doing what the picture and text says do maybe stop that?
 
The sector shaft should be held relatively firmly by the adjustment screw underneath that cap nut in the photograph. It shouldn't move much at all unless there is a problem with the screw.
 
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The wormshaft preload is done with the sector removed, at the bottom there is a plate with shims ---all of this should have been done as part of a "restoration"----the play in the sector shaft bushings should be checked--if you can feel wobble in the shaft the bushings are worn--these bushings when replaced have(should) be honed to fit the sector, the sector should be replaced if the roller end thrust is worn (roller moves side to side) ----then the last adjustment is the sector adjustment, there should be a slight tightness at "center", this is where the drag link should be adjusted to "straight ahead", and should coincide with the steering wheel straight ahead, if the adjustment is tight a little off center in each direction the worm is worn in the center area where most driving takes place--the adjustment will have to be a compromise or worn parts replaced ---if this car had a "total" restoration each part should have been brought to factory specs----perhaps you ought to talk with the restorer to see what was done other than paint
 
Dyna said:
Thanks for the replies. Dumb question-how do you determine that the preload is correct?
Click to expand...

With the box off the car it is much simpler, but that is not your situation! There is a proceedure to check and adjust bearing preload with the steering in place in the Ford manuel, but I'm not at home at the moment. I can post it later.

Adjustment Procedure:

1) Disconnect drag link
2) Loosen steering column tube to instrument panel bracket
3) Loosen lock nut and turn the sector shaft thrust adjusting screw counterclockwise (on steering box) (this is to unload the worm gear)
4) Turn steering wheel to limit in one direction
5) Using a scale measure the pull required at the rim of the wheel to start the wheel to rotate (1/4 to 3/4 lbs is the specification)
6) If less than specification remove gaskets or use a thinner gasket under the steering box end plate.

After the worm gear pre-load is correct:

1) Turn the steering wheel from stop to stop counting the total number of rotations.
2) Center the steering wheel at the center point between the stops.
3) Adjust the sector shaft thrust adjustment screw clockwise until all play is removed.
4) Check by rotating the moving the wheel side to side, there should be a slight drag at the center position. (scale measurement should be in the 1 to 2 lbs range).
5) When adjusted tighten the lock nut.
6) Secure the steering column to the instrument panel.

Check the position of the pitman arm with the steering wheel and front wheel all centered and adjust the drag link.
 
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