Sleeving a block

No because the block has to be bored to fit the sleeve outside dimension. Many engines
have sleeves even at the present time. I suppose there will be pros and cons, but many
were sleeved from the factory. My personal means of transport was sleeved back to
standard and it will be going long after I'm gone.........sam
 
Actually this is a good question as there are some stresses due to the interference fit of the sleeve. I suppose if you measured avery parameter extremely carefully you might find some changes but nothing of significance because as was said above ot has been done more times than can be counted. I have heard Model A blocks could be squeezed by hand on both sides and the cylinder shape would change slightly. Not sure how true that is but I read it somewhere.
 
I have heard Model A blocks could be squeezed by hand on both sides and the cylinder shape would change slightly. Not sure how true that is but I read it somewhere.[/QUOTE]

I have done this to several different blocks, set up inside micrometer to just hold itself in place, then squeeze block and it falls out ---I have done it to Mercedes diesel blocks, do have to push a little harder with them

much depends on the type of sleeve, and the block, if the original cylinder walls are thin boring for a thick sleeve can go through to "water", not much to support the deck and headbolts, then there are the thin "tin" steel sleeves that are pre honed to size, they go in with almost no press fit, but won't do much for cracks or damage
 
To do it properly, you need to replace the pistons as well. Due to ring land ware. Going to the next oversize would reduce the expense. The Ford flathead block can be bored many times, before you run out of material, then you can sleeve it. At present I have a Merc block bored to 3 5/16 + .020" Egge also offers a .030" piston as well. I think thr world will run out of oil,befor you run out of material.
 
Most folk don't sleeve till there is coolant involved either due to corrosion coming through, cracks, or just boring out to wet sleeves. If it goes that far, folks that have done it generally recommend using using epoxy (slow set JB Weld) on the ends to help keep thing a bit more stable. They leave a step at the bottom so the sleeve won't try to move. The deck is thin and every bit helps. Deck plates used for honing can be installed after the sleeves go in to hold the deck solid till the epoxy cures.
 
I´ve never used epoxi when putting in sleeves, but sealer in the bottom end if water leakage is an issue.
At the deck headgasket will seal it up.
Anything you put between the sleeve and the block will be an insulator and not a good thing.
There are some modern engines that has sleeves undersized and then installed with ceramic heat transfering sealer...lot´s of mess installing them...and probaly not a good thing to get into the oilflow.
 
I think Ron has it right.
If a sleeve installation is done correctly, it will be fine.
My concern is just that. Will it be done correctly?
For myself, I would rather not sleeve a block, especially,
if I want some performance out of it.
I also have no faith in repairing a block crack by pinning.
JMO & nothing to base my thoughts on
 
One of the best flatheads that I built was a 40 engine that someone had bored it almost to the water jacket. Put 8 sleeves in it and bored them to 3 3/16 and installed a Merc crankshaft. That engine has well over 100K miles on it now and still runs strong .
 
The success of sleeving the block depends on the skill and experience of the shop. A botched boring and sleeving can quickly ruin an otherwise good block. We have been doing the job for many years, and just finished a very old Buick block for a local car museum. The tab was a bit over $1,200, but the car is back on the road.
 
Most of the old Ford tractors were set up with sleeves. Either thick wall or thin depending on year of manufacture. This way a person can always go back to standard by purchasing a kit but it's a good idea to have the sleeve install tools for the ones you have.

The epoxy was only used on wet sleeve installs by some folks that built the 38 21-stud for the 35 coupe to run in the GAR. They wanted a 255 CID engine with thicker cylinder wall so sleeves were the only way they could go. There is an article in one of the Tex Smith books about it.
 
I usually consider the cost of the project. Sleeving a block to size is very expesive. At one time I suggested boring a block .040" Over, but the customer wanted the block sleeved back to stock, until he got the price of the job. That was 20 years ago, can't imagine what the job would be today.
 
flathead48 said:
Does sleeving a block to bring it back to standard cause any serious distortion.

Thanks, Rick
Click to expand...

I have installed a lot of sleeves in my life time!
and to answer your question yes you can go back to a standerd bore they leave enough material in the new sleeve do do that. but ther's a right way to do it and wrong way. it's to bad you are so far away
if you have any qustion's i would glady help you out
Thank's Bill,
 
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