Slant window drip rail repair

[7_Zero]

I am trying to evaluate the restoration of my '31 slant window and need some advice on repairing the drip rail. I have read that it is unadvisable to remove these unless absolutely necessary so I am wondering about what steps to take to repair them.

Overall they are in good shape, but they are separating from the body and have become somewhat wavy. I think the worst sections have about a 1/8" gap. Would some type of a heat/ shrink process work to straighten them out and tuck them back in, or would it require a more forceful method involving a hammer?

I have included close up shots showing how rough it is behind the rails. I do not know what steps, if any, the previous owner took before painting. Nor do I know what steps to take to help prevent future rust in this area. I do not want to make it worse, but I also do not want moisture to pool into it and cause further problems.

Any advice on how to fix, prep and seal it up would be appreciated!

Thanks!

 

[Great Lakes Greg]

Slant windows may be different, but here is the scoop on a Briggs Fordor. Underneath the drip molding is a sheet metal retainer strip that runs the length of the drip rail. That sheet metal strip is nailed to the body wood. The drip rail snaps over the strip by means of a hook shape on the top and bottom edges of the backside of the drip rail. I removed mine by CAREFULLY prying at the front until the rail separates from the strip underneath and then prying it off as you work your way to the back. If you were slow and careful, there will be no damage to either part and the drip rail will snap back over the retaining strip for reassembly. My drip rails were already straight, so I don't have any words of wisdom on your needed repair. Clear as mud?

 

[Karl Wescott]

The slant windshields are similar to the 1930-31 coupe that the drip rails are spot welded to the body.

While my experience is not specific to the slant windshield any time there are two pieces of metal spot welded and rust swelling begins between them it will be a difficult repair/restoration. The rust scale is swelling and distorting the metal. Any moisture will only make the problem worse.

The best way will be to remove the drip rails, remove all rust, straighten the metal on the body and drip rail until things line up perfectly, coat with a rust preventative "weld primer or other treatment, then spot weld back together.

Good luck

If the drip rails are not salvageable after being removed the 1932 rails are very similar and are now available reproduction in straight lengths (as part of the 1932 5 Window project).

 

[MAG]

We just finished doing this job on a Fordor Slant.
Drilled out the spot welds.
Repaired sheet metal under the drip rails.
Purchased the '32 reproduction rails. (Ordered 3 pieces as the coupe rails are about 6" too short for Fordor)
Fabricated a "bend" mold and formed the curved ends.
Installed them using commercial grade body panel adhesive.

 

[39 Ford Pickup]

7-Zero
I had to install drip rails on my 30 tudor. I bought the aluminum rails from Snyders, they were inexpensive and bent easy and used Simms Panel Adhesive to hold them on. I cleaned up the under rail, which was it was installed with metal screws, 60 years ago by my Dad, and the top material was still in good shape. To clean and smooth the adhesive I used a rag dampened with mineral spirts before it dried.
Enclosed are pictures of my homemade jig I used to bend the curved end. The inside board is the thickness of the rail, and the top board screwed down hold the rail from twisting as you bend, and how I clamped rail in place until adhesive dried. Maybe this will help you on your project.