Slant Window Body/Floor Repair - Looking for advice

[7_Zero]

I am working on my 31 Slant Window Sedan and am looking for some insight, advice and or confirmation on the direction. The body is off the frame and I have been working on the chassis, but want to change direction and start working on the body. The body needs attention inside and out but I figured the floor pan should probably get the attention first.

The original tool tray under the driver seat has been partially cut out and another tray brazed over the top. The 'replacement' pan has holes in it as well so I purchased a new tray to replace it (Picture 1). On either side of the tray the floor and subframe is rotted and will need to be replaced as well. The metal under the door sill plates appears solid so I was only going to replace the metal between the sill and the tool tray (Pictures 2 & 3).

The rear footwell is heavily pitted in areas and has some pinholes here and there. I am not sure to what extent it should be repaired vs replaced. The sides and rear seem okay, but the bottom and front ribbed areas have the most damage (Pictures 4 & 5).

The area under the rear seat also has some rust through (Pictures 6 & 7) but the part that I am most concerned about is the lower part of the sub rails have rotted away from the back of the rear door to the rear subframe. New angle iron has been brazed into place, but I worry this is not sufficient and would like to weld in some new metal (Pictures 8-13).

Right now my plan is to media blast the inside and outside of the floor to get a better feel for its condition, then epoxy coat it to protect it while working on it. At first I thought it would be good to do the body work off frame for ease of access, but have read that it is a bad idea. Will any of the repairs to the floor be possible off frame? Will they be possible on the frame? I did not pay close enough attention to where the frame sits to see if the repairs would be possible on the frame, and unfortunately this body is too heavy to be putting it on and off frequently.

For those who are experienced in this kind of repair, what would be your approach? I am thinking that the rear subframe would be the first part to tackle, then move on to the floor. Should any bracing be done before cutting or is there enough structure in this body type?

Thank you for your time!

 

[apbright]

Hi there,

Firstly, I would endorse your intended first steps, i.e. media blast it and then epoxy it.

I have not heard it said that the body must be on the frame for restoration - in fact, quite the opposite - as you will otherwise not have access to parts that may need fixing. The only caveat may be that you will need to have it on a surface/frame which is truly flat, so that you do not unknowingly 'freeze-in' any unintended body-warpage that may result from it being set on an uneven surface or mounting points.

Otherwise, I feel like you are headed in the right direction. However, I must also point out that I, myself, am more of an amateur restorer, having done only one such S/W body restoration.

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Having restored several of these, I think you are on the right track. My suggestion at this point is do not remove any metal at this time but go ahead and media blast the lower sections (-at minimum) and then post some pictures again so that I can see what you are dealing with. Making assumptions about what is needed without it in bare metal is just spinning your wheels. To a certain extent, what you are saying about the body needing to be mounted onto a jig or frame is correct, but I will will you thru that when the time comes and give you a few tricks on that. Good luck, and just like a 5-course meal, ...take it one bite at a time and before you know it the plates will be empty.

 

[7_Zero]

Thank you both for your replies! I need to finish removing the interior, once that is done I will get the body blasted and post an update.

Thanks!

 

[7_Zero]

Aside from a couple stubborn door panels I almost have all the interior out. I spoke with a dustless blaster and he said that he can do the inside and out, but he suggests not to do the inside as it is usually not worth it. Granted the floor is a given as it definitely needs attention as well as the inside area around the wheel wells, but what about the other panels?

I read somewhere that blasting the concave side of a panel can be risky and has a higher chance of stretching. There are also some areas that would be difficult to get to (like behind bracing in pictures 1 & 2), will more damage be done in an attempt to get into these places vs just leaving them alone?

I figured that with the doors I would just get the outside as well as the edges done, but not do the backside or inside. Also, should I remove the wood around the rear window and along the sides by the doors? What about the header as well as the rope like stuff above the doors where the upholstery attaches, should they be removed or just protected with something?

Thanks!

 

[Dennis Pereira]

It's best to stop all the rust and prime . No matter how you proceed media blasting metal prep do it while you have it apart inside and out .