Single stage vs base/clear

mrtexas

mrtexas

Well-known member
I have the first coat of PPG Concepts rose beige on my 29 roadster. I bought the single stage as it seemed to be the consensus of forum members a few years ago. The finish I'm getting is way shiny and plastic looking. I don't see how base/clear could be any more glistening.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of single stage vs base/clear coat?

Can I spray clear on top of a roughed up single stage and what would the result be?
 
Sorry, MrTexas, I do not have an answer for you about paint. I do want to say I agree with you about "too much paint". I recently was at a 50's car show and that seemed to be prevalent among most of the cars... the paint looked too thick and had that plastic appearance you speak about.

If you recall, a few weeks ago I wrote about a gentleman who worked on my car for a full day doing what he called "cutting" to the finish. He indicated the flaws in the paint were due to the clear coat over the black paint. When he was through, the paint looked more seasoned, smoother and much nicer. Maybe after waiting an appropriate time for your paint to fully dry (probably weeks)., it too, may settle down. I am no paint expert, but I know what you are referring to in your description. Maybe it's just a matter of some time, or maybe it needs some polishing of some sort. Check with PPG people?
 
PPG 2002 clear will work well over PPG DCC/Concept after prepping with 2000 paper. The advantages to using this clear are that it will color sand and polish a little easier than the single stage and it will be easier to blend later, if (when) it gets scratched or chipped.
 
The disadvantage is the added prep and cost.

The advantage is clear is tough as nails. Much more durable than single stage.

I never thought I would want clear coat but I now own one and do I get the complements.

Richard
Anaheim CA
 
I,m in the process of repainting my 33,and are in the process of making the same choice,
Any one know how long will the clearcoat last,
The old paint on my 33 was dulon acrilic laquer and was done in 85, it lasted well
Lawrie
 
Properly applied the Concept single stage will be really deep and shiny. Glasslike.

To get something closer to a factory shine, which is quite dull by todays standards, you need to buff it out.

Concept single stage does not need to be clear coated. The clear coating will only make it way too deep and shiny and way not like the original patina of a factory car. Unless you are going for the plastic hot rod look.
 
Here is my take (i.e.: exeriences). Clearcoats generally with have a tougher/harder shell due to the UV protectants. The harder the shell, the easier it is to cut & buff. The down side in too tough of a shell is it will fracture (chip) easier when the mil thickness is too great. We have a saying here that don't judge the color or the finish before it is done. Good quality urethane paint is going to have better pigments than a cheap paint line. If it is too glossy now, it will dull down if you use a compound that leaves micro-scratches.
 
Paint can't be used as a filler, neither can clear IMO. I can't explain in writing how some paint problems look to me, but sometimes the clear makes flaws in the color coat stand out, it doesn't level out the surface.
 
I used acrylic lacquer and mixed the last two coats 50/50 base and clear. I like the way it turned out, shiny but not wet looking. I feel the clear coat is tougher than the base like Brent said. I don't know if you can ix clear and base with the urethane.
 
Just finished a Concept PPG job on my '29 Tudor. The rose beige was very shinny but after cutting and buffing, I was very impressed even with my limited experience. It has been a long time since I painted laquer and the old acrylic enamel and I was pleased with the coverage and ease of use.
 
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