Simple engine stand adapter idea

[Benson]

I thought this would be easier to find in the future if posted as a new topic.



Simple and easy to modifiy the Harbor freight or standard V8 adapter.

This is a slick design from SeaSlug in 2007 from old FB.

Only possible problem is can you get to the center main nut to tighten it?

The adapters in the catalogs allow you tighten the center main nut while engine is still on the stand.

Attached Thumbnails

 

[Jim Brierley]

Mine is similar, but with it cut away to get to that main nut. Mine is of 1/2" thick steel.

 

[Tony G]

I like the design. Am I right that to use any Model A engine holder you must remove the oil pan before attaching it?

 

[John Stone]

If you can find my old thread, I showed my take on engine stands. Here is a link, not sure this will work.
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36654

 

[CarlG]

I thought I saw somewhere that Berts had an adapter that would work with a conventional engine stand, but I couldn't find it on their site.

 

[BobinDallas]

Be careful of Engine Stands which mount to the water neck inlet bolts on the side of the block. This is one of the weakest points on the casting. Almost every block has some cracking in this area. Also the oil pan bolts are very small. I don't use this type motor stand for these reasons. I modify a conventional stand for Model A block.

 

[James Rogers]

I like the design. Am I right that to use any Model A engine holder you must remove the oil pan before attaching it?

No, the ones I build and use you only have to remove two pan bolts to install the mount. It will hold the complete engine and transmission assembly. It is also good for use on a T engine and ******.

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Be careful of Engine Stands which mount to the water neck inlet bolts on the side of the block. This is one of the weakest points on the casting. Almost every block has some cracking in this area. Also the oil pan bolts are very small. I don't use this type motor stand for these reasons. I modify a conventional stand for Model A block.

Actually I have never seen a crack near the water inlet and this is a very strong and safe way to mount and work on the engine. You can mount the engine by just removing 2 pan bolts and also install the pan, flywheel housing, and flywheel with the side mount.

 

[John Stone]

Actually I have never seen a crack near the water inlet and this is a very strong and safe way to mount and work on the engine. You can mount the engine by just removing 2 pan bolts and also install the pan, flywheel housing, and flywheel with the side mount.

Just looked at a block today that had a crack in the water inlet. I offered $20 and he wanted $150. The rest of it looked like it came out of a hog pen. I have seen a couple more blocks with cracks starting in the water inlet and going up. Usually a sign there may be more cracks.

 

[MikeK]

The water inlet hub intersects several geometric shapes on the block, not one flat plane. It is an extremely strong area. Even if there are multiple freeze cracks radiating from it the area will easily support an engine assembly if used with one of the mount designs that incorporate two pins or bolts through the pan rail, effectively moving the torque center to a phantom point.

Even if Henry's cupola gray iron is a weak 20 KSI tensile, and the area surrounding the inlet boss has rusted to only 1/10" thick, ripping it straight out of the block, with an estimated 8" circumference around the inlet port shape will take a pull of several thousand lbs.

Of course, a block with freeze cracks in that area will surely have them in the valve chamber and other critical areas, rendering it junk unless you have a metal stitching compulsion.