The battery cut-out switch in my stock 29 RPU has for years been mounted on the negative terminal of the 6-volt battery, which is positive ground. It worked well and I never had any problem with it. But following suggestions on this website I moved the switch to the positive terminal, which follows the layout shown in the attached diagram. But now with the cut-out switch turned “on” there is no power anywhere! What am I doing wrong?
Silly Question
- Thread starter Mad Mac
- Start date
California Charlie
Senior Member
I agree that it could be either a problem with the disconnect switch (check for continuity) or a blown fuse (or loose wire) in the circuit.
It doesn't matter which Negative or Positive battery pole you connect your disconnect switch to. It should function as it should with opening (Turning on) and closing (Turning off) the electrical circuit.
Without a multimeter you can easily test the proper functioning of your disconnect switch by connecting a 6 volt light bulb wire to the Negative Terminal, and the other bulb wire to the back portion of your disconnect switch.
If the bulb doesn't light with your disconnect switch turned to the "ON" position, you have a bad switch. If the bulb lights up, you need to begin looking elsewhere.
It doesn't matter which Negative or Positive battery pole you connect your disconnect switch to. It should function as it should with opening (Turning on) and closing (Turning off) the electrical circuit.
Without a multimeter you can easily test the proper functioning of your disconnect switch by connecting a 6 volt light bulb wire to the Negative Terminal, and the other bulb wire to the back portion of your disconnect switch.
If the bulb doesn't light with your disconnect switch turned to the "ON" position, you have a bad switch. If the bulb lights up, you need to begin looking elsewhere.
Attachments
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I'm not a fan of that type of shut-off switch.
jeepguy1948
Well-known member
I’m not a fan of that switch either but I don’t believe that it could fail in such a way that it couldn’t close the circuit. Are you still using the foot pedal starter switch?
California Charlie
Senior Member
I forgot to ask what type of disconnect switch you are using; however, you still can quickly test Model A Ford circuitry using a 6 volt bulb on a 6 volt electrical circuit. Especially with testing the functioning of your disconnect switch.
Dick M
Well-known member
Hello,
I agree with many of the above posts.
No offence but that battery cutout is junk. Let me explain. I used one for several years. I had the same cutout mounted on the negative side of the battery just like you. My starter started to turn over progressively slower over time. Eventually it died. Why? Because the voltage at the battery was 6.4 and at the starter it was 2.6 when it died. The cutout did not allow the battery voltage to go to the starter. At this point my starter was shot due to the low voltage. A couple of hundred dollars and a core exchange got me a new starter. I threw the cutoff wheel into the trash as fast as I could. If you want to have an inexpensive cutout you could use a fuse block at the starter. With the fuse block all you need to do is to pop the fuse. Or, you can spend the money and buy the cutout switch.
I agree with many of the above posts.
No offence but that battery cutout is junk. Let me explain. I used one for several years. I had the same cutout mounted on the negative side of the battery just like you. My starter started to turn over progressively slower over time. Eventually it died. Why? Because the voltage at the battery was 6.4 and at the starter it was 2.6 when it died. The cutout did not allow the battery voltage to go to the starter. At this point my starter was shot due to the low voltage. A couple of hundred dollars and a core exchange got me a new starter. I threw the cutoff wheel into the trash as fast as I could. If you want to have an inexpensive cutout you could use a fuse block at the starter. With the fuse block all you need to do is to pop the fuse. Or, you can spend the money and buy the cutout switch.
I have now tested the switch using the light-wire method described in post #16 and it seems that is the problem. So I will have to get a new switch. A bit strange, because that switch worked perfectly for about 8 years when it was attached to the negative terminal. But I did notice it was getting harder and harder to rotate it on and off.
DF Model A
Junior Member
Highly recommend a quality disconnect switch (see picture from Mike's). Mine is installed in the floor just forward of the seat riser in line with the battery. It is unnoticeable unless you are looking for it which adds a bit of security against the opportunist thief. If you have not already, I also HIGHLY RECOMMEND adding a fuse terminal block at the starter switch. Another added bit of security allows the removal of the fuse when your car is left unattended in a public area. Of course, anyone with some electrical knowledge and a piece of jumper wire can start almost any of these older vehicles.
I think we have that backwards. Closing the circuit would turn it on, opening the circuit would be off.
Quote: (post #14) "In the photo you posted the battery terminal is loose. I am assuming that you knew this and tightened it but thought I would mention this just in case".
No it was fully tightened. It looks loose because I filed the terminal post narrower to make it fit. Then I discovered the letter "N" on the switch, showing it is only meant for the negative terminal! Until then I did not realize that these switches are "pole-specific". In other words, a negative switch will not fit a positive pole because the diameter of the hole is tapered, with the smallest aperture at the bottom. I tried putting it on upside down to solve that problem, but the switch then didn't work. So now I am looking for a switch with a "P" marked on it. I see they are available.
No it was fully tightened. It looks loose because I filed the terminal post narrower to make it fit. Then I discovered the letter "N" on the switch, showing it is only meant for the negative terminal! Until then I did not realize that these switches are "pole-specific". In other words, a negative switch will not fit a positive pole because the diameter of the hole is tapered, with the smallest aperture at the bottom. I tried putting it on upside down to solve that problem, but the switch then didn't work. So now I am looking for a switch with a "P" marked on it. I see they are available.