Signal-Stat 900 Turn Signal Switch Issue

V

VinceRodgers

Junior Member
Looking for some help. I just replaced my main wiring harness which I got from Snyder's (Harness with Turn Signal 1 bulb with Cowl light) as well as installed a Signal-Stat 900 Turn Signal Switch. My problem is the turn signals will only work when the power is on but the engine is NOT running. As soon as I start the engine the left or right (or 4 way flashers) will only come on steady and not flash. As soon as the engine is cut off they will flash. Any ideas?

Thanks, Vince R.
29 Town Sedan w/ Cowl Lights
 
I think you can use an electronic flasher that is designed to work with LED lights. I have the LED lights for the brakes and I put LED bulbs in my cowl lights. I bought the flasher at NAPA. The Number is EL 13.

Hope this works for you. I think I saw this information here on the Barn after I bought the signal switch kit.
 
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C1Nelson said:
I think you can use an electronic flasher that is designed to work with LED lights. I have the LED lights for the brakes and I put LED bulbs in my cowl lights. I bought the flasher at NAPA. The Number is EL 13.

Hope this works for you. I think I saw this information here on the Barn after I bought the signal switch kit.
Click to expand...


I tried couple of electronic flashers with my LED brake lights, but they would not work with my Signal Stat.

Patrick L recommended using a number 535 flasher which you can find eBay. It works mostly for me. The emergency flashers work okay, but the pilot light on the Signal Stat does not flash with the emergency flasher—it just stays on solid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you are using LED lights they operate with less power. If you have a conventional flasher it will not work with LED lights as they are designed to handle high wattage incandescent lamps typically used on original Model A's. As a comparison incandescent lamps draw amps LED's draw milliamps.
If you are using all LED lamps for your directional lights you will need to use a flasher that is designed for LED's (see Snyder's listing). You cannot use both LED's and incandescent lamps with a conventional flasher.
 
Yes, LED brake lights with LED flasher. I removed cowl bulbs after saw my problem in hopes that leaving them out would allow it to work, but no change. I have the LED cowl bulbs on order and the bulbs out at the moment.
 
CT Jack said:
If you are using LED lights they operate with less power. If you have a conventional flasher it will not work with LED lights as they are designed to handle high wattage incandescent lamps typically used on original Model A's. As a comparison incandescent lamps draw amps LED's draw milliamps.
If you are using all LED lamps for your directional lights you will need to use a flasher that is designed for LED's (see Snyder's listing). You cannot use both LED's and incandescent lamps with a conventional flasher.
Click to expand...




Sure you can. It had to be done that way before anyone figured how to make a 6v electronic flasher that actually worked.

A 535 thermal flasher works just fine with LED rears and higher candlepower front incandescent bulbs. That also increases the light from the front bulbs so the car is lit up enough for anyone to see it.

I am not one that likes resistors in the lines either, not needed.

And an old 535 flasher is best because it'll work. The new ones that are made from chinezieum are pure junk.
 
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Hmm, to the original problem.
What type of bulbs are you using ? All incandescent ? or a combo ?

What type of flasher ?

Is the 900 housing grounded ?

If the engine speed is raised to a high idle will the lites flash ?

Do the lights actually stop flashing or maybe are they flashing so fast they appear to be on solid ?

I'm assuming a generator is used. What is the charge rate ?

I'm just trying to think of enough questions. Some fellas may come up with more.
 
Patrick, Sorry for the delayed response (work).
What type of flasher ? LEDLight.com Flasher 6 Volt Positive Ground 3 Terminal (Bench tested and is working properly)

Is the 900 housing grounded ? Yes, I double checked that, the Pilot light in switch comes on (flashes when engine is not running)

If the engine speed is raised to a high idle will the lites flash ? No, no change.

Do the lights actually stop flashing or maybe are they flashing so fast they appear to be on solid ? The indicator on the switch will flash and the LEDs in the rear will BEARLY try to flicker, but do not get close to flashing. The incandescent bulb in the cowl lamp makes not attempt to flash or flicker.

I'm assuming a generator is used. What is the charge rate ? No, sorry I forgot to make that known. I'm running a Nu-Rex 6 volt positive ground High Output Alternator (Installed for the Halogen head light bulbs and anticipation of LED brake/turn signals (with LED 3rd Stop Brake Light bar that is mounted in rear window).

Looking forward to having SOMEONE solve this problem as clearly electrical problems are not my strong suit.
 
Hmm, this is a strange one.

How about trying to disconnect the alternator, then the 3rd brake lite and finally try a good 535 flasher. I'm spit-balling. Its been quite awhile, but, I've not found an electronic flasher that works.
 
CT Jack, I agree regarding the conventional flasher, won't work with LED lights. The LEDLight.com Flasher 6 Volt Positive Ground 3 Terminal is sold as able to work with both types at the same time. That seems to be the case for me, but again, only when engine is NOT running.

Patrick L., I just tried one more time to use a brand new 535 6 volt flasher and NONE of the lights will flash; steady on only.

The 3rd stop LED brake light was added AFTER the initial brand new wiring harness and Signal Stat 900 switch and LEDLight.com electronic flasher were installed and hasn't effected my problems.

Not sure the purpose of disconnecting the alternator. Obviously, can run on battery alone.

Thanks everyone else for your interest and help. Really, at a loss & need help.
 
where are you getting the power for the turn signals. Are you using the ignition switch with the accessory position to power the turn signals?
 
Doug Linden,

Well, per the Signal Lite 900 instructions, the power line to the flasher is from the battery. So, I had connected it to the pass side in the Terminal Box following the Yellow wire from the battery thru the starter. (Also the terminal that has the black wire from terminal to the Coil).

After reading your question I tried testing a direct lead from the battery to the X (Power) on the flasher. Well that DID allow the turn signals to flash with the engine running, but they did so at triple speed. I then swapped the power feed to the DRIVERS side of the terminal box (yellow w/ black tracer from Ammeter to Alternator). Only to have it act the same as when on original PASSENGER side; only flashing with engine not running and NO flashing with engine running.

Still scratching my head.
 
The e-flasher needs to be connected as close to the battery as possible. The ignition coil puts out a lot of line noise, which appears to adversely affect the operation of that type flasher, as several have reported. The triple speed would be a flaw in the timer, I believe. The guy at ledlight.com is pretty reasonable, you might give him a call.

The 535 thermal flasher is impervious to line noise but requires at least 1 amp load to heat up the element, so resistors need to be added in parallel to the LEDs. Or 10CP (10 watt) incandescent bulbs may be used in the cowl lights instead.
 
What type of ignition system are you running? Stock? Or?
Try running the power line for the flasher directly from the battery.
You may need to run a shielded power wire to the flasher, w/the shield grounded at one end only.
 
Badpuppy,

After reading your suggestion I just ran the power lead directly from the battery to the "X" (power) on the LED Flasher -- no change.

I still have the original bulbs in the cowl lights for the front turn signals as the LED bulbs haven't come in yet.

I've been under the impression that by using LED lamps and the 6 volt LED flasher I shouldn't need a line resister. Also the LEDlight brand flasher advertises that it works with a combination of LED and incandescent bulbs at same time, so at first I wasn't gonna change the cowl lights to LED. But now I've ordered those too in hopes of getting this to work. I don't know very much about electrical systems so any help is very much appreciated.

Katy,

Thank you for you input as well. Stock original ignition (even have the condenser back inside my distributor).

I just now ran the power lead directly from the battery to the X lead on the LED flasher, no help. Same result.
Please tell me more about "a shielded power wire to the flasher, w/the shield grounded at one end only". I have no idea what this is. Should I use a heavier lead wire from the batter to the flasher? Again, I'm a novice when it comes to electrical systems; but I'm learning.
 
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