Sick engine

[jerrytocci]

[/ATTACH]
THIS CHASSIS CAME FROM A NICE SURVIVOR . The black stuff came out of tailpipe and smells like soot from a chimney and the liquid is water not oil . The drain pan speaks for its self . I check oil level befor starting it and most puzzeling thing is , my radiator did not lose a drop and engine ran OK . The manifold gasket leaks . I plan to remove head and valve cover

 

[Vin-tin]

I would also plan to remove the oil pan and inspect / clean it up. Probably lots of crap in there. Hopefully no damage was already done by running it.

 

[jerrytocci]

It ran for a very short while

 

[nkaminar]

If you are not loosing water out of the radiator, and, as you say, you ran for a very short time, the water in the exhaust may be coming from combustion or some water sitting in the exhaust system, especially since there was junk coming out the tail pipe. Normally the water from combustion exits the tail pipe as steam after the engine and exhaust system warms up.



In any case, it would be prudent to take the head off, valve cover off, pan off, and manifolds off for an inspection before running the engine again. You may be able to same some expensive repair bill or if you find nothing wrong you will feel good about running the engine.

 

[nkaminar]

save not same

 

[J Franklin]

Before pulling the head drop the pan and side cover and clean things up. The water could be a lot of condensation.

 

[jerrytocci]

Thanks for the input . Being a Florida car, the condensation theory is valid . And like I wrote , the oil was good and the radiator never lost any water but did heat up as it should.

 

[jerrytocci]

I just recalled.....the oil fill had no cap on it when I got the chassis

 

[jerrytocci]

UPDATE ; I did the kerosine treatment and things seem fine .

 

[30 Closed Cab PU]

On any unknown condition motor is still best to drop the oil pan and remove the valve access cover for inspection. Of special interest is making sure the oil pump screen is clean, and to clean out the 3 oil passages in the bottom rear of the valve access cavity that gravity feed oil tothe bottom end bearings.

 

[jerrytocci]

I am to old and to fat to do the oil pan . The valve cover will come off for cleaning

 

[Bob C]

When you clean the valve chamber be careful not to get a bunch of crap in the holes that feed the main bearings.

 

[30 Closed Cab PU]

I am to old and to fat to do the oil pan . The valve cover will come off for cleaning

Did not mean to pester you. I had a close call with my motor. Motor started making a horrendous noise, immediately shut it off and had it towed. Oil screen was clogged with fresh and hardened on oil crap, bottom of the oil pan had inches of sludge. Behind the valve access cover was also horrendous. Lucky I had it towed, avoided ruinning the Babbitt and cam bearings at that time.

 

[Jack Shaft]

You're an honest man Jerry.

 

[J Franklin]

I am to old and to fat to do the oil pan . The valve cover will come off for cleaning

You need to hire it done if you cannot do it yourself. Save your engine because it is a lot cheaper than a re-build.

 

[glyn]

Kerosene treatment. I did it in '61 after muddy stuff was drained prior to an oil change. I was young and stupid then but an older feela said bring it down from the rack and we'll put a gallon of k in it. The mud got thinner then I added oil.
I hope my current fliver is better.
This time I'm going to drop the pan to see what is what. The K? I dono. I think its about $5/gallon now.

 

[Bob Bidonde]

The very first thing you should have done is a compression test of the motor.