Should I take apart rear end?

B

BashawT

Senior Member
Hey guys I am about to bring the rear end to the sandblaster and I am wondering if I should take it apart and check it before I paint it and assemble. The car drove before I took took it all apart and there was no red flags indicating that something was wrong. What are the best ways to determine if something is wrong without taking it apart? Should I just take it apart and check it to be sure? Or should I just paint it and assemble it and drive it until something goes wrong? Again there was no indicator that something was wrong when the car was running I am just asking for everyone's 2 cents!

Thanks everyone!
 
If its out from under the car, take it apart, check it, paint it. Itll save you from pulling it again later, and ruining the paint when taking it apart later on.
 
My two cents, take it apart and have it sandblasted in pieces. Then clean and paint the individual parts, then assemble. If the rear end is good now it may not stay that way after you sandblast it.

When sandblasting the sand and fine grit go everywhere. Strong possibilityy that it will work its way into the rear end if assembled and the grit would do a number on the bearings.

This way you end up with a nice finish on a clean, inspected and adjusted rear axel that you know will last.
 
It would be better to take it apart. Install new axel housing seals which will save your break shoes and internals from getting covered with oil. Also check the preload on the pinion gear as years of use will wear the pinion bearings and race, more than one rearend has gone out because the pinion gear does not mesh properly with the ring gear; this usually happens when you are on a tour and a long way from home.

Ron
 
My advice would be to not take it apart if it is working well unless you have the capabilities of rebuilding it. I would also recommend not taking it to a sand blaster fully assembled. You are liable to have sand introduced to the inside, which will cause all kinds of grief. if the rear axle assembly is out of the car, spend an afternoon with an orbital sander and a wire wheel on a drill motor before you paint it.

If you decide to take it apart I would recommend that you prepare yourself before you begin. Go to www.ocmafc.com . On the menu at left scroll to "tech articles" and click. A new menu will come up. At the top is my name, click on it and it will bring up a series of articles. Scroll to the one on differential rebuilding and click. You can download this article and print it out. Study the article before you begin and you will see what is required to do the job properly. You will want to replace all the bearings, races, and seals. The cost is about $290. You will also need some specialized tools.

Tom Endy
 
Thanks for the input so far guys. I taped off all of the areas really well that would allow for sand to be introduced into the inside. I know sand finds its way into everything somehow but the parts have already been dropped off so I have taken a chance. When I get it back I'm gonna take it apart and have a look inside.
 
BashawT said:
Thanks for the input so far guys. I taped off all of the areas really well that would allow for sand to be introduced into the inside. I know sand finds its way into everything somehow but the parts have already been dropped off so I have taken a chance. When I get it back I'm gonna take it apart and have a look inside.
Click to expand...

Well, you've done the 'deed', before asking..so good luck with the sand:).
I'm with Tom Endy and his input.
Plus this thot: How do you drive/use your A....has to do with best answer for your question, i.e.- are you driving long distances and lots of miles; or are you occasionally driving to soda shop/inlaws nearby/club meeting,etc:confused:
IMO , if only short distances, leave it alone as you say that IT was ok when driven. Now, if you tour/drive lots...then by all means take it down and evaluate/freshen it up. It is really nice to have confidence/ peace of mind when driving a lot.
 
hardtimes said:
Well, you've done the 'deed', before asking..so good luck with the sand:).
I'm with Tom Endy and his input.
Plus this thot: How do you drive/use your A....has to do with best answer for your question, i.e.- are you driving long distances and lots of miles; or are you occasionally driving to soda shop/inlaws nearby/club meeting,etc:confused:
IMO , if only short distances, leave it alone as you say that IT was ok when driven. Now, if you tour/drive lots...then by all means take it down and evaluate/freshen it up. It is really nice to have confidence/ peace of mind when driving a lot.
Click to expand...

Yea maybe I should have waited for responses before dropping it off today. Ill have to wait and see now. Thanks for the response. I don't plan on touring with it when its finished. Prolly just cruising around town and such.
 
I agree with the "don't take it apart" crowd. If it worked OK before taking it out of the car, double tape (seal) the axle races and U joint area and sandblast it. You could then take the axle housings apart after cleaning all and I mean all the sand off the outside and replace the axle seals to make sure they are sealed well. You will need a seal installation tool to install the seals - cheap, about $6 or $7. You should probably check the axle bearings, bearing races, pinion and ring gear when apart to see that they look and will work OK. Then buy some new banjo gaskets and reassemble it. If you mic the old gaskets when you take it apart, install the same thickness of gaskets when you reassemble it.
Hope this helps.
Rusty Nelson
 
wrndln said:
I agree with the "don't take it apart" crowd. If it worked OK before taking it out of the car, double tape (seal) the axle races and U joint area and sandblast it. You could then take the axle housings apart after cleaning all and I mean all the sand off the outside and replace the axle seals to make sure they are sealed well. You will need a seal installation tool to install the seals - cheap, about $6 or $7. You should probably check the axle bearings, bearing races, pinion and ring gear when apart to see that they look and will work OK. Then buy some new banjo gaskets and reassemble it. If you mic the old gaskets when you take it apart, install the same thickness of gaskets when you reassemble it.
Hope this helps.
Rusty Nelson
Click to expand...

Thanks Rusty

I taped everything really well. I know the axle seals need to be replaced because they leak. I'm gonna wait till I get it back from the blaster to figure out what I need to order and order everything together. Thanks again!

- Travis
 
Pull the plugs and see what you can see.

You may want to flush it with a solvent, but you want check for rust and other visible issues.

How are the axle tapers. Do they have lots of concentric circles indicating they have spun?
How are the key ways? Look for cracks along the inside corners and not being square.

How is the axle on the bottom where the hub bearing rides? Is it smooth or is it worn? Measure top to bottom and then front to rear to find out how much wear you have.

What did the oil look like when you drained it out?

Are the bolts holding the axle housings to the center correct originals? Do they have washers or lock washers (they should not)?

Then how do you intend to drive your car? Do you run then like the car could (and should) from the factory- 55 MPH all day long? Or do you think 45 is the most practical speed? If you are going to putt putt around under 45 you biggest concern will be leakage. If you intend to put miles on the car then you really should know what is inside.

My experience with sand blasting is the sand will get places you truly did not believe it could.
 
When you get it back from the blasters, I'd remove the seals then get a giant bottle brush (round toilet brush) and thoroughly clean the insides. I use a stiff toilet brush and gas. That old heavy oil and grease likes to hold the sand inisde.
 
DBF 30 said:
My two cents, take it apart and have it sandblasted in pieces. Then clean and paint the individual parts, then assemble. If the rear end is good now it may not stay that way after you sandblast it.

When sandblasting the sand and fine grit go everywhere. Strong possibilityy that it will work its way into the rear end if assembled and the grit would do a number on the bearings.

This way you end up with a nice finish on a clean, inspected and adjusted rear axel that you know will last.
Click to expand...
i second this! tried the duct tape still had sand anyway:cool:
 
My way: run as is unless you need to be sure. I've rebuilt rears that had no sign of defects but everything was shot. I sandblast before any disassembly, shoot with DP90, after two hours spray one coat of Hi Fill, then overhaul. That way there will be no residual sand and you'll have a good sanding primer to start on.
 
This is something I've always wondered about since I did not rebuild the rear end on my 1930 coupe. If you put the rear axle up on jack stands and run the drive shaft through the gears will you hear noise coming from the rear end if you go back there and listen or do you have to be driving with the wheels on the ground to hear anything? Also, how much noise is to be expected before repairs are needed? Thanks to all who respond.
 
BashawT said:
Thanks for the input so far guys. I taped off all of the areas really well that would allow for sand to be introduced into the inside. I know sand finds its way into everything somehow but the parts have already been dropped off so I have taken a chance. When I get it back I'm gonna take it apart and have a look inside.
Click to expand...

No to sand blasting.. bad,bad,bad.
 
leo said:
This is something I've always wondered about since I did not rebuild the rear end on my 1930 coupe. If you put the rear axle up on jack stands and run the drive shaft through the gears will you hear noise coming from the rear end if you go back there and listen or do you have to be driving with the wheels on the ground to hear anything? Also, how much noise is to be expected before repairs are needed? Thanks to all who respond.
Click to expand...

The rear end should be very quiet, so if you hear noise while it's on jack stands, you know you have problems. Take it to a quiet smooth road and listen for noise while driving it.
 
no matter how well I tape stuff, if its blasted, sand gets in there. The residual 600 w on the internal axle housings will have sand and fine grit embedded in it. That grit can cut loose and find its way into the gears and bearings. Even fine silicon dust will ruin your seals and bearings. Now that its been blasted, I would disassemble the entire thing and thoroughly clean it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top