shortened pitman arm

A welded Pitman arm is always an unknown regarding its strength. A welded arm will not be as strong or durable as a one piece arm given all other material properties are the same.
 
To say that a pitman arm can't be safely welded is not true. In the January 2011 issue of the Model A News there is an article about shortening a pitman arm with one inch lap weld with a deep V that is a very strong weld that any competent welder would feel very comfortable with. Original pitman arms are made with steel that welds very well.
 
Originally Posted by 31Abone
... shorter pitman makes for ... a reduced turning radius...

CarlG said:
Everything I have read points to this statement being false.
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Carl,
I installed a newly manufactured short arm, purchased at Snyder's, on my Phaeton two years ago before starting a road trip. The steering box is a stock two tooth Model A component. With the shortened steering arm, I cannot achieve full lock position on the spindles when turning fully from left to right. Some have said they can reach this position and I do not disbelieve them. So the controversy may have started because some do and some don't. I definitely notice the larger turning radius requirement. Before my next road trip, I am changing back to the original length. I just can't seem to get used to needing more space to complete "U-turns". My wife is the main navigator on road trips and she does not like wearing her glasses. She often says "Turn here" as we are just about even with the street sign. You get the picture? I make lots of U-turns and up until the shorter arm usually did so with a smile.
PS: I am planning a road trip to Alaska next summer immediately after attending the Loveland Colorado National Meet. I'd like to meet you. I'll buy lunch!
Good Day!
 
Dave,
Here's another twist: (And this is all hearsay, since I don't have the short arm, YET) You might have a longer turning radius going "left", but a shorter one going "right". From what I've been told, it's because of the drag link length needs to be adjusted in order to put things back right. Try doing a "U" turn going right and see if that is any different.

I would be all too happy to meet you next summer. I will even have my rig up and running by then. Let me know when you are scheduled to be here and I can have the whole gang ready to welcome you to the Greatland.
 
Ron Lachniet said:
To say that a pitman arm can't be safely welded is not true. In the January 2011 issue of the Model A News there is an article about shortening a pitman arm with one inch lap weld with a deep V that is a very strong weld that any competent welder would feel very comfortable with. Original pitman arms are made with steel that welds very well.
Click to expand...
Key word: "competent"
 
CarlG said:
Key word: "competent"
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Yes, there is a difference, I am a certified in structural welding and would feel comfortable using one that was welded. However, for the time involved in cutting, welding, blending, and most likely having to replace the ball...vs. the 40 bucks to get one and bolt it on seemed like money well spent. As far as the turning radius goes, the only thing I can figure out is maybe different steering boxes yield different results. I am running an f100 box.
 
CarlG said:
Dave,
Here's another twist: (And this is all hearsay, since I don't have the short arm, YET) You might have a longer turning radius going "left", but a shorter one going "right". From what I've been told, it's because of the drag link length needs to be adjusted in order to put things back right. Try doing a "U" turn going right and see if that is any different.

I would be all too happy to meet you next summer. I will even have my rig up and running by then. Let me know when you are scheduled to be here and I can have the whole gang ready to welcome you to the Greatland.
Click to expand...

Most of the U turns I make are hard left turns and it has often happened that I needed to put the front wheel in the ditch or make a quick back-up maneuver to correct for the misjudgment. I don't know, you may be right...now you have me curious, I will try a hard right and let you know.

Meet up next summer...you bet. I will keep you posted as to our plans.

Good Day!
 
I also have the F100 steering box and I have not noticed any steering radius difference. As far as welding vs. buying a finished arm, I guess I just like to do things myself instead of just replacing.
 
I do weld, and didn't make one. The time and effort just isn't worth the trouble. When I first read about the shortened pitman arm, you had to get it welded or do it yourself. Luckily they were put out by some of the major parts suppliers before I got around to making one and so I decided just to buy one and be done with the problem. The angles are critical and the weld is at a point where a bad weld will cause loss of steering control and so could be catastrophic. So Just buy one and get a new ball and good weld. Just a side note, the one I bought is welded, so yes I do have to trust someone's welding. I recommend it and have used it for a few years, love the extra ease of steering.
 
Here's another twist: (And this is all hearsay, since I don't have the short arm, YET) You might have a longer turning radius going "left", but a shorter one going "right". From what I've been told, it's because of the drag link length needs to be adjusted in order to put things back right. Try doing a "U" turn going right and see if that is any different.
Click to expand...

Easy way to check: Just jack up the front axle and turn the wheels side to side and see ifn they go all the way to the stops on both sides.
 
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