Short pitman arms, who's got one?

If the front end of your A has been lowered, a shortened arm will bring the drag link back to the horizontal position, so the action is direct again, like when new, thus easing the steering effort.
 
I use the shortened 1&1/2 inch pitman arms on my model A's. The shortened arm steers like power steering when the car is moveing, if everything else about the front end and steering is in good cond. and set up properly. The steering radius is reduced on cars with seven tooth steering but not enough to be of concern to me. The short arm will add a very small amount of slack or play to the steering at the center with the wheels pointing straight ahead but not enough to be a problem if the steering is properly rebuilt and adjusted. There is usually some trade off with most improvements.
 
I like the way my Model As drive with shortened arms!

breaking is a problem with arms that were shortened by incompetent welders.

Wiley Higgins makes one that is welded correctly, I have driven tens of thousands of miles with his shortened arms and trust them completely.

Snyders now sells an excellent arm that is made to the shorter length, removing all uncertainty about who may have welded it.
 
I also use the Wiley Higgins shortened pitman arms and reballed steering arms. Wiley does such a wonderful job, you can't see where they were welded and they look like they came from the factory.
 
Well thanks again for the additional input. The fact is that I'm big enough to drive and steer anything. Mrs Highlander is not. If it makes it easier to steer even just a little bit, she's worth it. I guess it's a big deal to me that she finally wants to drive one of the old cars in our lives. The easier the better...
 
Today installed Bratton's shorter pitman arm on my '28 coupe thanks to the suggestions read on members' posts. I detect little change if any, except that steering is VERY noticeably easier. Thanks
 
So that's it!
I spent a day last weekend trying to get my steering to go full lock both ways but couldn't get full lock on the left turn no matter what I did.
Now I understand that the shortened pitman arm is to blame.
As usual someone comes up with an answer on Ford Barn
Thanks
Keith
 
My 30-31 model A's with 2 tooth steering will steer lock to lock with the 1&1/2 unch shortened pitman arm and steering redius is not changed. My sept 29 with 7 tooth steering will not steer lock to lock with the shortened arm and steering radius is reduced. The seven tooth steering column still steers easy when moving with the short arm. I don't consider the change in steering radius to be a problem.
 
Hello Keith,
The answer to the problem is an adjustable drag link, it seems to be a problem with the 7 tooth steering box, there is a physical angle change of the drag link as it is raised upward to connect to the shortened arm.
It will come up short on a left turn and to far on a right, it fact the sector shaft will bottom out in the steering box housing before the left spindle hits the stop.
I have a spare drag link I am making adjustable, it needs to have left and right threads cut and a sleeve installed that I got from a parts store, another way to make one is to find a tie rod and use the existing left hand thread, find 2 tie rod ends, measure up the length to match the drag link cut the right hand threads and away you go.
Regards Brian.
 
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"A properly restored steering box and related front end components will eliminate the need for shortened pitman arms, F-100 steering boxes etc. "

Not for a woman.

I don't know Wiley, but I too would be wary of one that has been welded. It is gonna require low-hydrogen rod or wire and someone who really knows their craft, such as a gas line welder or nuclear power plant welder. I guarantee any that broke were welded with regular 70,000# wire.

Snyders has 'em for $35: one piece ....forged, one piece, 4130 alloy....you can't go wrong, and they work great

Oh, and around here an F100 box machined up to fit an A (if you can find one) will run you 750 bucks. I'll be happy with my shorter arm for 35 bucks.
 
Brian T said:
...The answer to the problem is an adjustable drag link, it seems to be a problem with the 7 tooth steering box, there is a physical angle change of the drag link as it is raised upward to connect to the shortened arm.
It will come up short on a left turn and to far on a right, it fact the sector shaft will bottom out in the steering box housing before the left spindle hits the stop...
Click to expand...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MODEL-...RAG-LINK-PITMAN-ARM-/271470214080#ht_63wt_922
 
20 years ago, I picked up a pitman arm that had been heated and reconfigured resulting in a unit that was about 2+" shorter than a stocker. Finally got around to installing it on my '29 CCPU yesterday. I've used this same arm with a stock A box and currently using it on an F100 box. What a joy to drive! No issues on turning lock to lock.
 
I have a shortened arm on mine. I had to use an adjustable drag link to center the box with the wheels straight ahead. I really helped to lighten the steering.
 
bettlesr said:
I have a shortened arm on mine. I had to use an adjustable drag link to center the box with the wheels straight ahead. I really helped to lighten the steering.
Click to expand...

It's too bad the shorter arms aren't made with the square turned a little, to keep the steering box centered with the wheels straight ahead.
 
I have them on five of my Model A's and they make a big difference. For the price you can't go wrong. I bought mine fro A and L. Wayne
 
The shortened arm works very well for me. I think that it should be used in conjunction with a properly functioning and adjusted gear box and all linkage.

Chet
 
Thanks Brian T. I purchased an adjustable drag link from "Machine Girl" and it arrived in New Zealand in very short time.
It appears to be an excellent product and I'm sure that when I fit it, I will be able to get full lock on both sides
Cheers,
Keith
 
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