Short Circuits

Bob Bidonde

Well-known member
I am making a presentation for my local "A" club about places prone to having electrical short circuits in the Model "A". I have all of the issues from the service bulletins. What I am searching for are your experiences with short circuits.
 
Hello Bob, a good question. The one I had that took time to find was at the head light connector. The plastic fitting that the wire terminals are inserted into before plugging in the cable was worn and the wire terminals would slip out and short on the headlight grounded ring. Even today while on tour in a different car, I am reluctant to turn on the headlights for fear I could blow a fuse! Ed
 
We once had a short circuit between the aftermarket fuse holder mounted on the starter in a rain storm. Got home by jumping directly from starter switch to primary side of ignition coil. It was an early fuse holder. Replaced it with a new one which was made much better.
 
If the A has hydraulic brakes, check the stop-light switch. It can cause a very slow discharge, draining the battery over a few weeks, very hard to find. I found it by using a volt meter, not enough amperage to find with an amp meter.
 
In 1974, I experienced an intermittent ignition problem that I finally traced to the cheap terminal box import. The two long terminal bolt heads had not been sunken deep enough into the plastic box so that the rounded heads arced against the firewall when the firewall go hot and expanded towards the bolt heads. Once the firewall cooled down, the car ran fine - for a while. Removing the terminal box in the rain on the German Autobahn, I noticed the arcing splotches on the firewall, right beneath where the bolt heads were located. Figuring that was why the ignition was cutting out occasionally (after checking and replacing EVERYTHING else!), I managed to screw the bolts into the plastic body just enough so that I could put some sealant on the heads to prevent arcing. After letting the sealant set up a little, the terminal box was re-installed and I continued on my way to Munich in the rain with no more ignition problems.
A fluke, you say, that could happen only to me? Nope! Since then I have traced ignition problems in three separate Model A's that were older restorations and incorporated some of those lousy 1970's import parts. Replacing these with the new higher quality terminal boxes solved the ignition problem in all three vehicles. The owners were flabbergasted at the cause of their frustrating misfire. I never see this cited as a potential electrical problem on diagnostic charts published in books and magazine articles, but it's a real possibility, especially in older restorations or cars that have been built since then using parts found in boxes that came with the unfinished Model A.
Add this odd one to your list, Bob!
Marshall
 
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Bob,

My $.02. How many feet of wiring & how many connections in a Model A = number of possible shorts.

A different seminar might be a systematic check for a short using meters & test lights. Not all shorts result in blown fuses, but all lead to dead batteries.

Best, jb
 
How about this short circuit?

Sorry, I had to. I did have a "short" in my '34 BB the other day. The brake light switch was sticking. I just sprayed it with some silicone spray (that's what I had close).

Red
 

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Just uncovered this one, looks like at some time in the past the amp meter got too close to the gas tank :eek: must have burnt a hole through requiring a weld to repair. that sounds scary
I have heard of potential problems there but have never seen it
 

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Reproduction terminal blocks that mount to the fire wall have the bolt tunnels drilled clear through. It is possible for the screws to back off and touch the fire wall and short out. It is prudent before installing one to tighten the nuts and them fill the back of the tunnels with JB weld.

Tom Endy
 
It's been almost fifty years since I encountered the problem with my repo terminal box in Germany, but as I recall, the bolt heads were a bit too big to be drawn completely inside the plastic body. They had been left that way from the manufacturer in Taiwan or Argentina. By forcing them with a screwdriver, I was able to move the heads in just deep enough so that they wouldn't arc. In the other three cases I encountered with similar poor repo terminal boxes, we simply tossed the old boxes and installed new quality ones - first ensuring that the terminal bolt heads were sunken deep enough inside. We also put RTV on the heads to further protect against arcing. That was 30 years ago and the last I heard, all three cars were doing fine.
Marshall
 
Reproduction 30-31 stop light switches made in China are a disaster waiting to happen, they not only can short out, but they can also burn your car down, even with a fuse installed. They are very poorly made. A&L began making a quality switch years ago. A testament to the difference in quality is that both are carried by Bratton's Antique auto, the A&L switch is $64.95, the Chinese switch is $10.95.

My advice to anyone who has a Chinese 30-31 stop light switch installed on their car, take it off and throw it away and install an A&L one.

Tom Endy
 
As with Ed #2, my original headlight sockets were used and turning the adjustment screw in too far led to the screw hitting a frayed wire blowing the fuse when the lights were turned on. Also, I mistakenly used a 28/29 adjustment screw, which is longer than a 30/31 screw, on a 30/31 headlight shell.
 
I’ve also had issues with the repro stop light switches. Another issue I’ve seen is the starter switch grounding out inside. Some of the aftermarket switches have a square plate inside and if the main terminal spins while tightening the cable onto it, the corner of the plate contacts the housing.
 
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