ShockTubeLinkTipNeeded

TudooR31

TudooR31

Member
Asking for advice installing the shock lever tube links on front.
Unit is greased and rubber seals & retainers are in place.
So far I have the suspension ball located between the 2 ball caps, then the spring, then the spacer, then the lower ball cap for the shock lever ball.
My trouble is there's not enough room to fit shock lever ball through tube link upper opening with all the above parts in place. If I insert the shock lever ball, I cannot insert the suspension ball. Maybe need a helper with a rubber mallet to knock the assembled tube onto the lower suspension ball?
Or a custom c-clamp to force in the shock arm ball?
The weird thing is I was able to wrestle the right side together in this manner but not the left side.:confused:
If anyone has some handy tips on getting these things together, I would appreciate it.:)
 
Check if the long drilled hole in the tube is C-bored deep enough, compare to the other side I had purchased 3 sets of links and there where 2 links that where about 1/16 short on the depth.
 
if they go on hard that is a good thing, it means everything is in good shape. I use a 3/4" rod. put it in the end of the shock link and snap in on. it work good for me.
 
Thanks for the replies. I'll check the size of the upper openings. There are a number of sharp burrs on the edges.
I grease gunned the one I did get together and found most of the grease squirted out of the lower rubber seal.
Is there a way of preventing that so the upper ball also gets greased?
I also noticed the rubber seals & tin shrouds have a thick & thin end. I put the thick end towards the center of the shock link tube. Does that make a difference?
Sorry for all the questions. Seems like one action leads me down 2 more paths.
 
if it is not an AR, when putting the seals and retainers on the off set goes to the top on both top and bottom. if you put them on wrong the grease will just run right out.
 
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You may already be doing it this way, anyway I have found that the BY FAR easiest method to put those things together is as follows:

- First assemble the tube link on the axle ball, and insert the spring, spacer and cups.
- Then squeeze in the shock arm ball WITHOUT the shock mounted to the arm.
- Then mount the shock to the arm.
- Lastly bolt the shock to the frame.
 
Had a similar problem with same recently with one (1) experience in trying to use all "existing" shock parts.

1. Different ball sizes? Different lengths of springs? Different lengths of spacers?

2. Have no idea where all of these maybe 1960's/1970's shock components came from. It was totally impossible to fit ball with new Teflon caps in any manner.

3. First, accurately measure everything with calipers -- no two assemblies alike. Next made a hack saw mitre box with wood & with a hack saw trimmed the lengths of the existing spacers that would not allow assembly.

4. If existing balls on shocks and/or axles are the correct size, (like original), total shock assemblies bought today from vendors fit well -- if balls are larger in diameter, take out the hack saw to trim spacers.

5, After trimming spacers, they were then tight; but easy to assemble.
 
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jw hash said:
if it is not an AR, when putting the seals and retainers on the off set goes to the top on both top and bottom. if you put them on wrong the grease will just run right out.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply, but...
What is an "AR"?
Do you mean 'off set' is the larger/thicker end of the seal or the narrow/thinner end?
I did have the lower one thick side up when it leaked.
 
the AR refers to early 28 they had round seals and round retainers until mid 28 from mid 28 to the end they were off set.
 
The height of some repop ball caps from the base shoulder to the centerline of a seated reference ball is greater than the original caps. That will create your problem. Check against your originals. The dirty fix, as mentioned, is to cut down the center spacer. :mad: Gotta love repop parts- NOT!
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