Shocks worth the money?

30aadoodlebug

30aadoodlebug

Senior Member
Hey all,

I have the chance to buy a new set of shocks with all the links dirt cheap. My only hesitation in the matter is I've never driven, let alone riden in an A with shocks. Im going for a driver, and not a trailer queen restoration job as my tudor is a true survivor from 1930-minus the shocks. So do the shocks make a big difference in how the car rides?

Thanks in advance for your input!

Jon
 
Depends on what shape your springs are in. If the springs a good then it's kind of bouncy without shocks. If the springs are sticky, rusty and worn, they don't move much. Good spring and good shocks make for a nice smooth ride. Did you say dirt cheap? I'd snap them up!
 
I sent in my two old ones that were on my car and got a set of four from Ron Paul in Yoder, CO. He was mentioned in the thread by 29er. Pretty happy with them. I was wondering if there is an opinion on using the traditional links vs the dog bone. I think dog bones were put on by Ford at some point after 1929, but wondering if anyone thinks one is better than the other.
 
Hi Jon,

Your initial statement says it all"

"I have the chance to buy a "NEW" set of shocks with all the links .... "dirt" cheap."

One (1) Logical Question: Would you buy a five (5) gallon bucket full of gold coins dirt cheap ............... even if you never spent a single one?

One (1) Suggestion: With hundreds of reasons why experienced Model A owners look for shocks, give the guy the bucket of dirt, hurry up to get the shocks, and never complain that some other Model A guy beat you out of them.

Hope this helps.
 
Anytime you can buy good shocks dirt cheap, you need to jump at the chance.

I've been driving my 28 without the shocks connected for 10 years and I'm OK with it until I rebuild mine, but it does the hop, skip, and jump when I take a corner on a dirt road. It might do the same on a paved road if I drove faster.
 
30aadoodlebug said:
Hey all,

I have the chance to buy a new set of shocks with all the links dirt cheap. My only hesitation in the matter is I've never driven, let alone riden in an A with shocks. Im going for a driver, and not a trailer queen restoration job as my tudor is a true survivor from 1930-minus the shocks. So do the shocks make a big difference in how the car rides?

Thanks in advance for your input!

Jon
Click to expand...

I was in your boat, added stipe shocks, car was made a new... Body roll, all but gone and you can drive one handed without worry... Well worth it. If money is an issue get a set of originals.. Tube shock up front where you need it are not ideal there... Remember the model a is a light weight car, so it needs these much more than a heavy car.
 
FWIW:

A. For real long term sheet metal harmful effects when driving on back roads, my 1930 coupe, (always driven in rural areas), came with no shocks in 1958.

B. With constant bouncing without shocks, all body to chassis bolts at wood blocks had already pulled through the metal sub-rails and had already been repaired with welded flat steel plates.

C. Fractured over-stressed inner sheet metal body braces were found cracked almost everywhere, caused by the very pronounced twisting effects of a typical non-rigid Model A riveted chassis on 1930's and 1940's rural roads & railroad crossings.
 
Last edited:
It's like a Laurel and Hardy movie to watch an A with good springs and no shocks go down a bumpy road or make a hard 90* turn at speed. JMO
Paul in CT
 
Who is the maker of these shocks? Or are they rebuilt originals?? Some of the older new shocks were junk / garbaaaage and i wouldnt spend a dime for them..

As far as shocks vs no shocks yes they make a big difference
 
Last edited:
All depends upon how original, how good and how cheap. Get em' cheap enough and the things can be flipped for a quick buck. Presently own a 31' Tudor that has been rebuilt mechanically by the previous owner. The rear springs even look to be new. All the original shocks also were overhauled with shiny paint and fittings. As with this car and a couple of other Model A Fords previously owned that had original cat food can type shocks, this vehicle rides like an old buck board wagon. Those original shocks look cool but are really lousy in practical use. Before, on other A Model cars, it was all attributed to worn out orig shocks. In my humble opinion, unless a person needs to have original shocks for authenticity, then I wouldn't bother with the crude things. For shock absorption purposed, there are no doubt other choices available. Should this Model A be kept for driving purposes, it will probably get a retro-fit set of modern style shocks.
 
When driving with no shocks and the spring has some flex in it, in other words not a heavily rusted spring, it can be broken on the rebound from a pot hole, railroad track crossing or a big bump. As the car goes down all the spring leaves work, but as it rebounds up only the main leaf is doing the lifting. There has been replacement original type shocks that are not of good quality, and there are some that are excellent. Beware of quality differences but having shocks is a safety measure.
 
If you restore the springs to perform as original, your ride will be both softer and bouncier and this could be a safety issue. I recall a certain of section of road that must have been designed by Satan himself. It was always dicey at 40 MPH in my coupe with old springs and no shocks. After I restored the entire suspension and springs I could barely drive it at 30 MPH because the rebounding springs seemed to launch the car nearly off the road and into the ditch.
 
I will rehash what has been said above in various posts.

A Model A with good springs that are properly restored (lubricated and such) is basically not safe over 25 MPH without shocks. It will be very uncomfortable to keep on the road.

If you do not have shocks and you can run 45 mph then you have some real bad springs.

As for shocks, you have to be careful.
There are some repro shocks that are more like decorations. Good shocks with the adjusting screw full in will be very very difficult to move with the factory arm. One direction should be easier then the other.
 
Kevin, you bring up an interesting point. My 1930 coupe has a set of shocks which were from Ron Paul and I cannot say that they are at all difficult to move one way or the other if I remove the link from them. That being said I just mounted them on the car when I got them and did not fiddle with the adjustment. Don't remember if Ron Paul even said there was an adjustment to make. I've never opened them up to add oil and they have not leaked. Am I missing something here?
 
You need to check the oil level, and use the correct viscosity of oil. Some wear on the moving parts will mean thicker oil to get a good dampening effect. Yes. they have an adjuster that also needs to be set.
 
My comments on how a shock lever should move are based on a very crude attempt to test a shock according to the service bulletins.

I guesstimated a lever length and weight. Turns out when I learned the actual weight and length I was not far off. I then tested some very good shocks I was using to learn shock operation and testing using what I had on hand at the time.
I had what I considered fairly stiff operation by hand and I know it was similar, but probably lighter then when I rebuilt some shocks for my fordor and my brother coupe. The KRW tool based test say it should take like 15 or 20 seconds to go most of the travel distance (they give an angular measurement) of travel. The shock rate I thought was good by hand took like 4 seconds with the weight on it.

So back to the drawing board. What I know about the shocks I was using was they were all rust pit free with maybe .001" of wear. I was using oil that was too thin. I did not want to spend all kinds of money at the time getting oils so I suspended testing until I could find a better reference to shock oils and viscosity. I also need to determine which seal kit is actually best to buy from the supply houses. There are 2 types. I have not taken the time to re-visit shocks.

My conclusion it is important to understand the tests with the KRW tools to be sure you have properly operating shocks. I believe it is likely most people do not have shocks that are slow enough to be close to factory.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top