Shock Repair

LopezCarguy

Senior Member
Anyone have idea how to get the little balls out of the inside of shock, also can a o-ring be used on needle valve rather than the original seal?? Got four good ones opened up and sand blasted..ordered repair kit from Burt's..suggestions appreciated..and yes I know you can send them to professional for rebuilding..not my choice..thanks
 
the ball checks are held in by a cage
it allows the fluid to go one way
the only way i can see how to get them out is to drive the cage out from the opposite side of the stationary vane
of course it makes it a LOT easier if you can remove the stationary vane
try something like a cotter key removal tool
its L shaped hardened steel
they are really in there
if you can use some carb cleaner or brake cleaner
poke the little red straw in the hole opposite the cage and squirt through it
if you can squirt fluid through both sides (one way)it should be good
remember each side is a one way valve
squirting through the cage side ,you should not get any fluid through the ball check valve
tom
 

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The packing really needs to be packing and I doubt you can get an O ring the right size to fit over either end. You can go to a plumbing store and get string packing. I believe HD and Lowes have it too.

The original felt packing was put on before the gland nut and the pointer. It is one piece. Some older kits had a felt packing with a diagonal split.

How tight are the vanes to the walls?

If they are not super tight then you much expect to use very thick oil to get the right action. There is a noticable difference between a very tight vane and one that has a very slight amount of wear. At least in my limited experimenting.

Do not try to play too much with your balls too much. They are not much fun to play with unless you have some help. They likely just need some cleaning. If they are rusty then the shock is likely bad anyway. Minor pitting is not good as it will allow the fluid to flow past the vane.

Keep in mind there should be a few pound weight at like 2' that takes like 20 seconds to fall down. Lighter oil (I did not have heavier oil or the correct information) in a "loose" shock is like 7 seconds. My definition of loose is likely extremely tight in other peoples minds, probably like a couple thou clearance.

With a shock arm and the valve all the way down it should be really hard to turn the shock. Noticably easier, but still tough in the other direction.
 
The cage that holds the balls is "staked" in place and you will probably destroy the cage trying to remove it. Kevin's advice is the best way to go.
 
How true

"Do not try to play too much with your balls too much. They are not much fun to play with unless you have some help. They likely just need some cleaning."
 
Thanks guys, I will try the acid to clean the balls, the vanes are very tight on three of the shocks so I think they will make good shocks..the fourth one is loose so will try to find some parts with tighter tolerences
 
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