Shock fluid

L

LarryinWA

Senior Member
Just installing my rebuilt shocks. Had them rebuilt 2 yrs ago and they have been sitting in the box. I assume the fluid is still okay since they do not leak and have not had the plug off. The arms moved fine when I installed the links.
 
Similar story in my case, but I found the glycerine levels low in all 4 shocks. I suggest that you check the shock fluid levels and replenish them as necessary.
 
Define move fine.

A working shock would need to be in a vice and would very very slow with a lot of force using a normal shock arm. That is with the valve down in the operating range.

If you can hold a shock body and move the arm the shock is only for decoration, it does not work.
 
I have posted before the list of current oils that could be used. I do not have it handy right at the moment. If they are original shocks the thickness of the oil will depend on the wear in the shock. A very small amount of wear can cause the shock to have much less resistance.
 
We've covered this topic before. If you had your shocks rebuilt by Robert Paul in Yoder, CO, use glycerin. He says to get it at the drug store.
 
I would check with the person who rebuilt them as from what I have seen re-builders do not use the same fluid.


Some that I have been told (do not remember which ones used which oil) are:

10W oil
20W oil
other grades of non-detergent and detergent oils
ATF
Brake fluid
STP mixtures
Hydraulic fluid

Bill Stipe on his new shocks says:

1. "Full Synthetic Hydraulic oil 30 to 40 weight"

2. Also: " do not overfill best is about 1/16 inch below bottom of hole. Need air pocket to expand."
 
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In my opinion [ which doesn't mean much] hydraulic oil of various weights depending on wear and personal preference should be used.
Ford stopped using glycerin over 8 decades ago. If I remember correctly Bill Stipe shocks come with 30 weight hydraulic.
 
From my experience with pretty darn nice shocks with minimal wear that oils up to 40 wt will not give the performance as specified by the KRW test kit.

If it hard as heck to turn with the adjuster in then the shock is not right.
 
I've been using shock fluid for years, available from the various parts vendors, etc. My car which is recent purchase appears to have rebuilt shocks. Removed the plugs and found all 4 to be very low on fluid. Filled them to a little below the fill hole and they all were leaking in short order. Then I saw in vendor's catalogues prominent warning notice not to fill the rebuilts because the chambers were filled and sealed. I wonder if the rebuilts are not sealed with the proper o rings, etc. at the outer housing ? Would be interested if anyone else has had this problem .
 
These were rebuilt by Robert Paul so I will use glycerin. I was only able to move the arms a little when mounted on the frame, enough to get the dog bone links in place. I did notice more noise coming from the front end when I drove it. Should the shocks make any noise? Never had shocks on my coupe in the 55 yrs I have owned it so do not have any idea if they make noise, or if it is my old rusty springs now making noise! Next step may be to replace those. Better to get new ones than sandblast the old ones??
 
If the springs are weak then buy new ones. If they are holding the car up at the correct height, then I'd sandblast, grind the edge or the worn pockets and bottom side of the spring leaves, then grease and reassemble them. I like to use spring covers to keep out dirt and keep the grease in.
 
Original shock links sometimes click and clack. If that's what you are hearing, take 'em apart and add a washer inside -- between the spring and the tube spacer. Then you can snug the link up with the screw plug.
 
I would not trust that they are still full, particularly since it takes 20 seconds to check and top off each shock. I use the stuff the vendors call "Shock Absorber Fluid" whatever that is. Of course, I also use vendor supplied 600W ****** oil, also an unknown, but adequate fluid that I have to trust the well known vendors to have done the research for me.
 
Does anyone know where to get the oil for bill stipe shocks. 30w synthetic hydraulic oil. I can get it in 5 gal pails but I just need a quart probably forever! Be nice if they would sell me some but they don't seem too interested. Any ideas on a suitable sub?
 
Motorcycle fork oils work and come in different viscosity---- I have been using atf in mine, but with well lubed springs it's a little weak in damping--- haven't tried adjusting though

In a fork oil comparison atf did better than most fork oil of the same weight

Try a landscaper or contractor to see if they have an open pail of hyd oil--- my kubota lawnmower uses it
 
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