shock conversion

jan bogert

jan bogert

Senior Member
i got the tube GAS shock conversion, way to stiff, i fan it for 200 miles thinking it would adjust. not! anyone running tube HYD.shocks? if so what are they, and what # would like to use the same mounting brackets. JAN. P.S. when i bought these in 2010 snyders didn't have the modern style now i see they have hyd. i'm not spending for another kit. just want the shocks.
 
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While I am definitely not a pro on shocks, my 16 year old son is as he works on race cars (like below) and actually works on and tunes shocks, and he tells me the difference between shocks that are hydraulic and gas filled (i.e.: nitrogen) is that when a shock rapidly oscillates numerous times (such as in off-road conditions or extremely bumpy roads), the oil heats up and causes it to aerate where the shock is less effective due to the change in oil viscosity. The gas evidently keeps pressure on the oil where it does not aerate. Therefore as far as "stiffness goes", that is solely affected by the shock's valving, ...and not really whether it is a gas or hydraulic valve.

FWIW, I once heard of a Model A-er who said the best shocks he used were off of a Chrysler Volare in a junkyard that had over 100,000 miles with used shocks on it. According to him they were almost worn out and gave the perfect ride for his Model A. I personally have never ridden/drove a Model A with tube shocks that I felt like rode as good as what a set of hydraulic lever-action shocks did. Maybe I am just too picky??

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Try Speedway, So-Cal Speed, Pete & Jakes, Ebay, etc. for hyd shocks. Suspensions of older cars just were not designed for gas shocks (rough, stiff ride).


Joe,,,
 
My experience has been that almost any gas shocks even make the car sit higher and ride like a ROCK!
Some don't complain as they think they will "limber up," THEY WON'T!:eek: Whenever they do complain, the warranty's expired.:eek:
I would only use them on a vehicle that had settled over the years from weak springs or on a pickup that transports heavy, hoarded Model A parts!:eek: And that's my opinion, (I'm NOT humble):D Bill W.
 
My 30 A doesn't have shocks on it and I have never rode in a A with shocks. When I hit some rail road tracks it gets exciting for a second or two. I know when I can afford it I will get them on there. I have been reading and think that Brent has a good idea about the MGB lever action shocks. I am unsure of the costs and availability but they have to be alot cheaper than the original rebuilt ones. I was thinking about tube shocks but haven't been impressed with what I hear about them. I don't really want to drill the front axle to install them either. Bracket shocks don't sound to me that they stay in one place. Originals sure would be nice though.....
 
I've built a couple of MGTD kitcars on VW chassis.The manual says to use only half-worn out shocks on the chassis.I picked up a chassis from somebody who had rebuilt it for a project,he gave up on it and sold it to me.It was all done,brakes,lines,front end,seals,painted up,and I just installed the body on it.It turned out to have new shocks on it.I thought the glass fenders were going to shatter before I got it back to the garage.They were full hydraulic shocks,not gas.I took a set off a VW I had flipped on it's side to strip in the early 70's.They had some feel left to them,the car rode and handled great.If I tried to corner on a bumpy road with the new shocks the front wheels would leave the ground,once the spindle went up the shocks were too stiff to let it down fast.
 
I contacted monroe I don't think there is a hydraulic with out the gas they say the gas is to keep the oil from foaming number 31069 and 31176 is about as soft as it gets but I believe snyders advertise theres is hydraulic another person told me a gas shock has to be tied in close position when in box hydraulic doesn't,mine is good on highway but rough roads another story
 
ford31 said:
I contacted monroe I don't think there is a hydraulic with out the gas they say the gas is to keep the oil from foaming number 31069 and 31176 is about as soft as it gets but I believe snyders advertise theres is hydraulic another person told me a gas shock has to be tied in close position when in box hydraulic doesn't,mine is good on highway but rough roads another story
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They're tied so they can use a cheaper, shorter box!!:D
I know this'cause I'm CHEAP also. Bill W.
 
I just put a set of modern shocks on my A from Ken Davis. They made a world of difference.
 
Quote (While I am definitely not a pro on shocks, my 16 year old son is as he works on race cars (like below) and actually works on and tunes shocks, and he tells me the difference between shocks that are hydraulic and gas filled (i.e.: nitrogen) is that when a shock rapidly oscillates numerous times (such as in off-road conditions or extremely bumpy roads), the oil heats up and causes it to aerate where the shock is less effective due to the change in oil viscosity. The gas evidently keeps pressure on the oil where it does not aerate. Therefore as far as "stiffness goes", that is solely affected by the shock's valving, ...and not really whether it is a gas or hydraulic valve.) Quote

Brent hit it on the head.
It's strictly valving...Trying to find some passenger car shock that will work properly on a model A requires a LOT of research...It can be done but I haven't read of anyone doing it yet. The parts houses that sell kits for model A's either won't tell you what their shocks were designed for originally or just don't know. They pick something that will MECHANICALLY fit the application. Most big race car teams have shock dyno's that tell most of the story...Adjustable shocks are a partial answer if you can find some that adjust in the range you need.
Race car shocks can be adapted sometimes..Some are adjustable..Almost all have the compression/rebound rates listed in the specs. All you have to do is determine what specs you need. Mechanically, there are many that fit model A's with a minimum of adaption.
I have them on my car and they work much better than any lever shock available.
 
Jan, I've got the Monroe 31176 tube shocks on my P/U and I feel that it rides great but I was raised in Mack trucks and on Cat equipment so I might not be very picky when it comes to ride quality. Clyde
 
I also have the Ken Davis shock set-up. I think it is great. Handles fantastic. I have plenty of movement in the suspension. The shocks are the ones he has in the kit.
 
I am using Monro-matic 31089 and they are great. They are for a volkswagon beetle in the 1970 era. I am also running Bridgestone Ecopia EP-02 radials They are low rolling resistance and my 1929 pickup rides as good as any new car.
 
blgitn said:
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Yes, I have.

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How do friction shocks compare to telescopic conversions?
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In my view they don't. Most friction shocks you find today are made of thin gauge material and will not stand much tension adjustment.

While I am not here to debate those above who say their tube shocks ride just as good, I personally do not share their same view. When you think about it, someone is retro-fitting a shock absorber that was designed/calibrated for a different weight of vehicle often times with different type of suspension system.

The thing that I feel makes either a correctly restored original shock, -or a set of Stipe shocks much superior to these aftermarket tube shock conversions is there is a difference in the way they bias (60/40 action on the lever shocks) ...AND the stock-type units are adjustable where you can fine-tune them to the road conditions you are traveling on. I know of no O.E. over-the-counter tube shock that has an external adjustment capability. Therefore if I have the capability to take a shock that was originally designed for a Model A Ford weight and suspension design, ...and then on that unit turn the adjuster to tune the exact ride quality I am seeking. From my personal experiences, that gives it an advantage. Maybe others don't see it that way, ...and that is OK too.



One question that I will ask. Have y'all seen these shock kits where a piece of flat bar is drilled and used to mount the shock? If some of us have said the tube shocks are stiffer, ...and we know from experience that a properly adjusted Model A shock has tension when the arm is depressed, what keeps that piece of flat bar from flexing before the tube shock starts to do its job? Thoughts??

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