Shock absorber, mounting

Werner

Werner

Well-known member
Hello,

I think there is a new problem. I wanted to install my 4 new Stipe dampers tomorrow. The right damper is immobile rusted, the left damper rotates freely without any damping.

When preparing the transmission mechanism from the old rear dampers, I see that the lever arm for the right side is bent about 15 °. The left arm is straight. The lever length is different.

I do not understand that.

For this I must explain that the wrong leaf spring was very wrongly mounted with many errors and therefore about 2 inches slipped to the left.


I say thanks in advance!
 

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First of all, I do not believe that Bill Stipe had anything to do with making them.
They do not look right for Stipe Shocks.

#2 I don't know a lot about them, But I think someone mixed a front arm with with a rear arm, They are different lengths.

#3, They do not match! A set of Stipe shocks (I believe) are all marked which wheel they go to and they are very nicely made and cost over a $1000 a set in America, Germany? Who knows?
Terry
 
Terry said:
First of all, I do not believe that Bill Stipe had anything to do with making them.
They do not look right for Stipe Shocks.

#2 I don't know a lot about them, But I think someone mixed a front arm with with a rear arm, They are different lengths.

#3, They do not match! A set of Stipe shocks (I believe) are all marked which wheel they go to and they are very nicely made and cost over a $1000 a set in America, Germany? Who knows?
Terry
Click to expand...

I think the pictures are of the shocks Werner is taking off, to be replaced by his new Stipes. His question is about the arms.

Warner, not only do you have two different shocks, you have two different arms. I think the longer straight arm is actually the rear arm. The shorter arm may be a front one but the configuration does not look correct. It may have been bent?? Look at the difference in Snyder's catalog https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/shock-arms

 
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Hello,

Yes of course these are the old bumpers. The first built with adjustment arrow and Ford stamp, the other without adjustment arrow and cast manufacturer name.

The new Stipes now have clearance from customs and will be delivered tomorrow. 1 set of Stipes costs incl. Freight & customs $ 2000.

Unfortunately, I also believe that these are completely different composite components. Because also the whole rear axle was botched. Wrong spring (8 sheets), wrong briden from the truck (too flat), the wrong centering screw with 6-edged head (does not fit in the 4-edge recording), rusted shackles, both brackets clamps against twisting have been missing. ...

Thanks for the useful hints!
 

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The shock on the left is a Model A shock,The other is a 32 shock with a crimped on reservoir cover.The bent arm is for the front and the straight arm is for the rear.
 
At least with all of the things you are fixing, you will really know your A well when you are done. Better to find out now, instead of later when you are on the road and something breaks..
 
I guess I did not read it carefully enough. I thought you were calling the old ones "Stipes". Congratulations! Many of us wish we could have a set of stipe shocks ! When I assembled my spring (10 Leaves) I used a "Grade 8" bolt and it was a hex (6) head also. I ground the 2 points until it fit in the square hole.
The old shocks are "Houdaille" and most of the old ones are too worn out to rebuild.
Terry


Werner said:
Hello,

Yes of course these are the old bumpers. The first built with adjustment arrow and Ford stamp, the other without adjustment arrow and cast manufacturer name.

The new Stipes now have clearance from customs and will be delivered tomorrow. 1 set of Stipes costs incl. Freight & customs $ 2000.

Unfortunately, I also believe that these are completely different composite components. Because also the whole rear axle was botched. Wrong spring (8 sheets), wrong briden from the truck (too flat), the wrong centering screw with 6-edged head (does not fit in the 4-edge recording), rusted shackles, both brackets clamps against twisting have been missing. ...

Thanks for the useful hints!
Click to expand...
 
Good evening Terry,

I rather think that my English is too bad to understand everything correct.

That I chosed Mr. Stipe was because in this forum he was recommended several times. During the restoration of my Gangster Citroen 11 CV, I had particularly bad experiences with cheap spare parts from India.

The old shock absorbers consist of 90% rust and 10% paint. Hopeless. -


Yes, it is good to correct the built-in errors now and not during the ride. Now it is winter, there can not drive a vintage car, because a lot of salt is strewn on the streets avoid ice.
 
Hallo Werner, Wie Gehts? Sein Englische ist besser als mein Deutsche! Ich Lerne Deutsche. Aber das ist genug! I did not read your posting well enough the first time. Ich lerne Russische auch. Mein kopf ist veruecht! (Aaa, Bey, Geh, Dey, Eyeh, ) Wir haben kein Umlaut, so wir use ein "e" .
We are fortunate in that we get very few auto parts from India! (And glad for it!) We did get some low grade plumbing fixtures a few years ago.
Germany uses salt on it's roads? In America each state takes care of the roads inside of it's borders. Some still use salt and some are using Potassium ???. It doesn't harm the roads or the cars.
Terry



Werner said:
Good evening Terry,

I rather think that my English is too bad to understand everything correct.

That I chosed Mr. Stipe was because in this forum he was recommended several times. During the restoration of my Gangster Citroen 11 CV, I had particularly bad experiences with cheap spare parts from India.

The old shock absorbers consist of 90% rust and 10% paint. Hopeless. -


Yes, it is good to correct the built-in errors now and not during the ride. Now it is winter, there can not drive a vintage car, because a lot of salt is strewn on the streets avoid ice.
Click to expand...
 
you have a Duck? a 2CV? nice...2 grand for a set of shocks? they better dance over the potholes..I bought these for fifty bucks a piece,work great..

hQycXyC.jpg
 
Werner said:
Hello,

Yes of course these are the old bumpers. The first built with adjustment arrow and Ford stamp, the other without adjustment arrow and cast manufacturer name.

The new Stipes now have clearance from customs and will be delivered tomorrow. 1 set of Stipes costs incl. Freight & customs $ 2000.

Unfortunately, I also believe that these are completely different composite components. Because also the whole rear axle was botched. Wrong spring (8 sheets), wrong briden from the truck (too flat), the wrong centering screw with 6-edged head (does not fit in the 4-edge recording), rusted shackles, both brackets clamps against twisting have been missing. ...

Thanks for the useful hints!
Click to expand...


Hi Werner,


Some truck owners remove a couple of spring leafs to improve the ride of the truck. Trucks ride very rough/stiff with the 10 leaf spring. If you are not happy with the ride there should be info here on VFF; on which leafs to remove, modifying the ends of the leafs with a chamfer, and lubricating the leafs.
 
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Removing leaves softens the ride and can increase sway. The idea behind oil filled and friction shocks is to dampen the impulse,its why they are called 'shock absorbers'.Spring leaves don't rust if the car is driven.

For show quality cars 2k for shocks is the price you pay..for driver quality cars friction shocks perform the same function at a fraction of the price.
 
Friction shocks are not as good as hydraulic shocks. Friction shocks give the same resistance regardless of how fast the movement is. Hydraulics give more resistance when the movement is faster.
 
True.but the difference doesnt measure up much.Set the friction to dampen rebound and youve gained 80% of what your looking for.
 
I use friction shocks on three of my model A's and I am happy with their function . Friction shocks stabilizes the ride and makes the car safer . I have hydraulic shocks on the coupe and it doesn't ride any softer than my model A's with friction shocks .
 
Who makes those friction shocks. they look like they're just what I'm looking for...cheap.
And then I can blame the ride on my 'frickin' shocks. :rolleyes:
 
Speedway sells two versions of the front friction shocks . the front friction shocks have shorter length arms . The front shock arms can be bent in such a way that they could be used on the rear . The mounting feet of the friction shocks can break if the shocks are adjusted too tightly . I doubled the thickness of the mounting brackets of some of my friction shocks . The shocks are mild steel and can easily be welded. I probably shouldn't mention this but friction shocks are not always cheap . I'm not sure if new complete sets of front and rear friction shocks with links are still offered . When complete sets were offered by some of the model A vendors , The price was around five hundred dollars per set plus shipping . JC Whitney offered them for 27.95 a pair in the early seventies , I wish I had bought more of them when they were that cheap !!!!!!! I have at times found friction shocks at a reasonable price at some swap meets . My good friend Carl G gave me the last set that I run on my September 29 . Thanks again Carl G !!!!!!!
 
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