Shifting

Forker

Senior Member
Went for a long drive today taking advantage of our 80 degree weather here in Texas. The car drove great most of the time, but occasionally didn't want to shift into 2nd gear for some reason. Double clutching helped once in a while, but not always. Seemed I had to slow down and start from 1st again to be able to get it into 2nd, even though it seemed to refuse to go into second from 1st initially. And on a rare occasion I even had to struggle to get into 3rd. This wasn't a constant problem, just an occasional one...any ideas what the problem might be?
Thanks
george
 
Check the ball on the bottom of the shift lever. When it wears down to a square shape the lever will hang up when shifting. The cure is to weld it up and grind it back to round.
 
Sometimes if the shift rail detents are quite "crisp" you might need to "slap" it with an open palm into the next gear. Are your shift rails new? Bill W.
 
Lots of good questions that I don't yet have the answer for, but met someone with a well equiped personal garage and I can get her up on a lift and check things out.
Thanks for the suggestions
george
 
If I shift out of First too fast it sometimes has to be returned to first then brought out slower, else it tends to stay in first,also slower shifting is the key ,I think, to not Scratchin the gears and shift out before reachin to much speed .This is shifting up ,shifting down requires double clutch and revin the engine in neutral with clutch pedal not engaged or "out". Just my opinion .
 
Lots of good questions that I don't yet have the answer for, but met someone with a well equiped personal garage and I can get her up on a lift and check things out.
Thanks for the suggestions
george

I like to work on my transmission with the floorboards out. It makes it easy to put the grease in. I recently drained my transmission and added new 600w grease to it. I did it on the floor in my garage.
 
I like to work on my transmission with the floorboards out. It makes it easy to put the grease in. I recently drained my transmission and added new 600w grease to it. I did it on the floor in my garage.
Don, there's an advantage of me bein' a skinny RUNT, I can go all over under Vermin, without a jack or stands, and get FREE Dog:cool: slurpies! (YUK!) Bill W.
 
A precaution. Never start up the car with the top of the transmission removed. Oil goes everywhere. The main shaft will spin in neutral.
Bob
 
Sometimes I even try to shift from 1st to 2nd within ten feet of travel. It usually ends up farther. But still, up-shifting during low rpm's is the key.
 
Don, there's an advantage of me bein' a skinny RUNT, I can go all over under Vermin, without a jack or stands, and get FREE Dog:cool: slurpies! (YUK!) Bill W.

Bill, I was skinny in the first part of my life. I know what you mean. Now I'm 52, 5'10", and 180 pounds. I still fit into most places, and my long skinny arms go where others can not. Back to that transmission...I use an empty quart squirt bottle that 90 weight comes in. I measure the 600W and pour it into the squirt bottle with a funnel. Then it goes right into the transmission with no mess.
Mike
 
I guess no one read the thread about lugging your engine. Kind of between a rock and a hard spot . Shift at optimum rpms but can not get it in second gear. Sounds like a problem with the transmission .
 
No syncromesh in Model A trans. You must double clutch up shifting and down always

According to the manual you don't have to on upshifts, and on my car I only 'might' need to double clutch on a downshift most of the time if my speeds are right it slides in.

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I would second the comment that you do not need to double clutch when up-shifting. In fact it can be counter productive, especially when going up hill. Drove our 1929 business coupe as my daily driver during four years of college in a very hilly city and never once double clutched during an up-shift. On the other hand was very familiar with that procedure on down-shifting, especially when transitioning from a high speed 4-lane road to 2-lane side streets.
 
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