She's runnin but not good

If you're sure the timing is right, look at the rest of the ignition. Yes, 2 strands of wire will screw up the coil's need for voltage. Your points might look a bit fried because of that. Once the ignition is all good, then play with the mixtures and such. 99% of the Model As I've had were all way waayy too rich, which then fouls the plugs, which then makes it run rough, which then has some chasing a ghost. If you're sur there's a vac leak, that may be it as well. But initially I suspect the coil only getting like 2-3 volts. Not enough to make a big lightning strike at the plug.

I had a similar issue with my 29. Never had an Abone that I couldn't make run if it wasn't stuck. My issue was the coil wire to the distributor. It ran, then would run rough, then not at all, aggravating would be an understatement. I shagged an old hipo wire from one of my Mallory distributors, and there it was, that one and only Model A idle at full retard. Gotta love it...
 
Just went out and looked at things again. I see that the intake is cracked, right where the vacuum plug is, like it was over-tightened. That could be a huge part of this so off it comes and the original just got wire wheeled and painted. Grabbed the wire from the terminal box to the coil and it broke in my hand. Replaced that. All 4 exhaust ports are leaking so I that will be addressed tomorrow when I swap the intake out. I got new points and a condensor coming so I will swap that out tomorrow and see what happens. Also noticed I had the muffler clamp on upside down so I flipped it right side up. I can still move the pipe so I will have to address that too.
 
After taking off the cracked intake I noticed my exhaust manifold will not fully seal to the engine at the rear and front rings. Take them out and it fits up tight. Grabbed another manifold I have and it is even worse at the rear. Is it ok to not run the rings? The two center rings will fit in the block on both manifolds. I have to get this taken care of before I go on to ignition/carb.
 
Many do not run the gland rings, but if used, they need to be cut down after resurfacing the manifolds.

Probably why the manifolds won't mate with the rings installed.
 
If the manifold is flat and the ports aren't sagging you might not use the gland rings or cut thinner ones if needed. My bet is they don't fit with the rings due to sag, but might seal if not too bad.
 
FOrd quit using the rings part way through the MOdel A production--how wrong can it be to go without? Some say that the rings were dropped when the newer style gaskets came along and the rings were no longer needed to help align and hold everything in place during bolting up.

I remember the first time I had bolted-together manifold set ground flat--the recesses for the rings were pretty much gone by the time we got flat.

Steve
 
Thanks for the info guys, I am going to run the original intake and exhaust that was on the truck (without rings). I know it was running in 2006 so they should be good. Waiting for new gaskets to arrive.
 
Hey Vanspeed, Don't forget to check that the gasket surfaces on the intake and exhaust manifold are in the same sealing plane. So they both clamp at the same time. I bought the late 31 exhaust manifold from you, the problem you might be having is exactly why I had you check the ports with a straight edge. Good luck, thanks for keeping us up to date.
 
Is the battery installed pos ground? Makes a big difference in how the engine runs. It will run neg ground, just not very good. Tends to backfire under a load.
 
Personally I would not worry as much about exhaust as I would about the intake for leaks. The popping might just be some stubborn valves that need to be worked. Snyders exhuatst manifold was a perfect fit for me. Lucked out and didn't need to plane them together like you would expect. As said, one at a time, not that I apply this theory.
 
I know the exhaust isn't that big of a deal but if I am going to put it back together correctly, than I might as well. Battery is installed positive ground.
 
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She is ALIVE! I have her running quite well, I know there is still some carb work as the air adjustment screw on top the carb does nothing. I can turn it all in or all out and no difference but the truck idles nice, and I actually drove it around the block. I can't imagaine the last time the old girl ran on her own but man that was fun! I have the gav out more than normal I think but she is running well.
 
Vanspeed said:
Any thoughts on why the air adjustment on the carb doesn't work??
Click to expand...

There is a small passage opening in the carb for the idle circuit This opening is just above the throttle butterfly in the front upper half of the carburetor housing. I use the very smallest torch tip cleaner to probe and clear this poassage. I remove the air adjust screw and spray carburetor cleaner and compressed air through the air adjust hole. When you can feel air coming out of the passage opening above the throttle butterfly when you blow compressed air through the air adjust screw opening, the idle circuit passage will be clear.
 
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