shavings found in light switch body

The best light switch harnesses/plates are made by A&L down in Connecticut. Most of the vendors now carry these, but you will do well to ask. Or you can get it from A&L.

If you talk to him he may be able to make up a Type H harness - which differs a bit from the standard harness (no parking lights for instance - not to mention the different connections for the plate.)

Joe K
 
sailorcowboy said:
I am assuming I can wire up the rest of the system, i.e. terminal connections, ammeter, ignition switch, whip cable etc, etc, etc that it will run without the light harness?
Click to expand...

Yes, just the two harnesses that connect to the junction box inside/outside and the jumper from there to the coil. Connect that single jumper wire to the generator side in the jb.

No lights or horn, but you'll run.
 
I bought the 1928 light harness from SVF, but it comes without the contact plate. I always use the original switch and contact plate. The drum taillight harness is all one piece from the switch to the taillight, and SVF makes it as such. Others make the harness short and you have to use a short harness and couplers to reach the taillight.
 
Those shavings or metal pieces likely came from inside the upper switch ring body. That switch ring with its insulator are attached to another part up in there. The switch control spider fits in there to rotate that assembly to function the switch. There are pieces of metal that are bent over to hold the switch ring & insulator in place. If the resistance to turning was too great, some of that stuff may have broken off up in there. I don't know where else it could have come from. If A&L make a switch body, theirs would likely be better than anything else in the reproduction world. Originals can wear out too but they were pretty sturdy if you can find one that was lightly used and stored well for 90 years.
 
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