seven tooth steering shaft tight

M

moasew

Senior Member
I was wondering if when you reinstall the seven tooth steering shaft should I be able to turn it easily by hand before putting the steering wheel on?
I've had the worm replaced and since that the shaft seems tight.Then I installed the lower steering wheel bushing and impossible to turn by hand.The shaft is straight as an arrow on the lathe. Maybe the repro worm is slightly larger ?? The machinist had quite a time replacing the worm.He didn't have any acetylene torches so pretty much pounded the worm off and the new one on. No burrs on either end of the shaft and as I mentioned the shaft is straight. The column appears straight as well and was fine before I took it apart. However the worm was pitted.
Any suggestions ??
 
The 7 tooth has shims on the bottom cover. The shims are one of the few adjustments the 7 tooth has.

1) Check to be sure there are shims between the bottom of the gear box and the bottom plate or cover. Secondly, you may need more shims in place if it is to tight. What could be happening is that it is to tight which clamps down on the worm and the bearing surface, pinching it tight. You could loosen the bolts on the bottom and just see if loosening it up makes it turn easier. If so, then you need more shims.
 
moasew said:
I was wondering if when you reinstall the seven tooth steering shaft should I be able to turn it easily by hand before putting the steering wheel on?
I've had the worm replaced and since that the shaft seems tight.Then I installed the lower steering wheel bushing and impossible to turn by hand.The shaft is straight as an arrow on the lathe. Maybe the repro worm is slightly larger ?? The machinist had quite a time replacing the worm.He didn't have any acetylene torches so pretty much pounded the worm off and the new one on. No burrs on either end of the shaft and as I mentioned the shaft is straight. The column appears straight as well and was fine before I took it apart. However the worm was pitted.
Any suggestions ??
Click to expand...

I think I would be looking for a new machinist. :eek:

Bob
 
The steering shaft is too tight before I put the lower steering bushing in .I do install the bushing with all the shims/gaskets. Are copper gaskets/shims better than the paper? I have both available.
Very limited to machinists in this area.Perhaps I should've ordered the shaft with a new worm ?? This is for an AR Model A as well so maybe there are suttle differences in the worm.
 
Since the machinist pounded on the shaft I doubt it is straight any more.
Support the ends of the shaft on steel blocks and slowly turn it to see if it is straight.
Check all along the length for straightness.
Les Andrews "red" book is a good start for rebuilding the column.
The worm gear is an especially tight fit and not all machine shops have a press long enough to accommodate the steering shaft.
The upper and lower bushings should have been test fit on the shaft before installation.
Post number 2 talks about the shims at the bottom which can bind the assembly.
Put the wheel on and see how it feels and if it is jerky it is probably a bent shaft.
All the surfaces should have been lubricated before assembly.
Al
 
Here is a clamp James Rogers made to hold the shaft while changing the worm
with a press.

Bob
 

Attachments

  • J-Rogers1.JPG
    J-Rogers1.JPG
    136.5 KB · Views: 25
  • J-Rogers2.JPG
    J-Rogers2.JPG
    135 KB · Views: 30
Turns out the rubber anti rattlers on the control rods were up to high plus there were small burrs on the upper shaft so all is good now.
 
great.. thanks for the followup. Steering gears can be tricky.. it's all about a little experience of knowing how to do them. I prefer the brass shim stock as opposed to paper. Hopefully you're new rebuild will give you good service.

As an alternative and I know you have a '28, but if you can find a '29 2-tooth unit with '29 mast jacket in tact it is great improvement over the 7-tooth.. Of course properly rebuild..
Larry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top