Setting lifters on the bench

[bcatcmc]

When I first starting to look at adjusting the lifters in the block ( assembly stage ) I thought there must be a better way. I could handle drilling the lifter bosses for the pin but with solid lifters I imagined a problem with the pin getting forced out with the shape of the lifter depression. Seems like I might need 3 hands here some where, bad enough with 2 hands in there, In the end I went with the following.

First step was to use an electric pencil to lable all valves and lifters ( Photo 1 )

I made up a spring loaded dial indicator jig ( Photos 2 and 3 ) with locating plate shown fitted. ( important )
With about 020” clearance valve to lifter I set dial indicator to zero.
I then used a nominal 035” feeler gage between valve and lifter . ( Photo 4. ). assuming intake being adjusted dial indicator should read ‘035” less ‘012” “ ( the lash required ). ‘023”
If the dial indicator reads above ‘023” ( example ‘028” means lifter to be adjusted in ‘005”)
If the dial indicator reads below ‘023” ( example ‘017” means lifter to be adjusted out ‘006” )
Photo 5 shows jig for adjusting lifter in or out.
Replacing lifter / valve back in the block with dial indicator back in place, with a ‘012 feeler gage should read 0 ( a double check of the set up replacing the ‘012’ with a ‘014” feeler should read ‘002” )
Photo 6 shows the adjust sequence used.

Initially a bit fiddly but after the first couple of times progress was good, consistently accurate, fairly civilised process and my knuckles still in good shape.

If anyone interested I can post up jig dimensions.

 

[cadillac512]

Brains rather than brawn. Well done sir!

 

[Ronnieroadster]

Your process is really extensive and well thought out.

I'm sure many know this but for those just learning there is a rather simple way to hold adjustable lifters for adjusting. A small diameter hole drilled in the valley at the lower edge of each lifter bore prior to the completion of all the block machine work is an extremely simple way to hold the lifter in place.

Here's my system of bench adjusting lifters. I place a lifter in the block then the valve on the seat I push the valve down so its on the seat by hand. I now adjust the lifter until its at the desired clearance at this step. Next I remove the lifter so I can measure the overall height using a vernier I now record this dimension.

There will be at times a difference in lifter height dimensions from side to side on the block due to the angle variations of valves. So I record the measurement noting what side its from. I now have preset adjustment for all of the lifters being installed on the noted side. Bench adjusting lifters this way gets the adjustment close but once the valve assembly is held in place in the block the spring will close the clearance a bit. Thus a final adjustment is needed.

For this simple way the only tools needed is a 7/16 open end wrench and a small drift pin placed in that drilled hold to retain the lifter from turning to get the clearances adjusted as needed. Once you get the system down its a really fast way to preset lifters and complete the final adjustment's as well.
Ronnieroadster

 

[bcatcmc]

Gee Ronnie,

Read over your reply a few times seems like you are still down in the valley with pins, feeler gages and spanners . That was what I was trying to avoid. Isn`t the varying depths of the valve seat pockets going to also have a bearing on your preset lifter lengths

 

[Bored&Stroked]

Looks like you created a method that works well for you - nice job! There are a lot of ways to skin this cat - as long as you achieve the designed clearance, then the goal has been met. One thing to note is that I usually set the lash about .001 tighter than the spec as with just a little bit of break-in on a new cam, lifters, etc -- that seems to get me about right in the end. (The clearance gets just a bit loose after break-in on most new cams that I've had).

 

[Ronnieroadster]

Gee Ronnie,

Read over your reply a few times seems like you are still down in the valley with pins, feeler gages and spanners . That was what I was trying to avoid. Isn`t the varying depths of the valve seat pockets going to also have a bearing on your preset lifter lengths

The preset lifter lengths when I do it will still need a final adjustment. This final adjustment thus allows for the valve seat variables. An added bonus to the way I do this is now with the holes drilled for the pin will easily allow future lash adjustments when needed during the life time of the engine.

Your system certainly accomplishes setting the lash. However when adjustments are needed latter I doubt the plan would be to remove the head's and then repeat your initial adjustment routine.
Ronnieroadster