Serial number size

Paps31

Paps31

Member
Odd request, but bear with me.

I’m planning on restamping my block (needs to pass VIN inspection to get a Kentucky title). I want to get it done when I get back from holiday travel, but I forgot to triple-check the size of the very faint numbers that currently exist on the engine.

I want to say 1/4”, but I want to be sure before I order from McMaster-Carr.

Anyone feel like running out to their garage with a ruler? [emoji16]

Thanks in advance.


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Depending on date of manufacture some of the numbers have a different font from normal number stamps ---- there are pictures in the service bulletins
 
If you’re not going for judging. I wouldn’t think any size as long as someone can read it and Without leaning on the fender.
 
A lot depends on where you are coming from. I am from California. I would go with the very faint numbers. Sometimes they can be raised with acid. Do the faint numbers appear to match your current title? Note that in addition to the size there is a special font used and a star at each end. If you are trying to change the number be advised that there are some very strong federal and probably state laws about tampering with VINS. Several years ago California stopped using engine numbers and started issuing VIN tags that they attached to the door jam.

Charlie Stephens
 
We have a rebuilt engine in our 1929. Old engine number has been ground off and the frame number for car was re stamped on engine to match all of our paperwork for the last 50 years. Car has been register in N.Y. and Conn. No one has ever question the style of stamping, just confirmed number.

My experience has been that you need confirming back up paperwork. In states like Connecticut titles are not issued to cars over 20 model years old. A Model A would be sold with a bill of sale, and a current or past registration certificate showing VIN.

Engine number should match paperwork. Also, our engine number approval date is June 15, 1929, date on firewall is June 18, 1929. This could all help with DMV person who has questions.

I don’t know if I have helped you. As mentioned earlier, if not a point car, I think you just need to have an engine number that can be read and makes sense to the car it’s on. With back up paperwork. Enjoy.
 
WHN said:
We have a rebuilt engine in our 1929. Old engine number has been ground off and the frame number for car was re stamped on engine to match all of our paperwork for the last 50 years. Car has been register in N.Y. and Conn. No one has ever question the style of stamping, just confirmed number.

My experience has been that you need confirming back up paperwork. In states like Connecticut titles are not issued to cars over 20 model years old. A Model A would be sold with a bill of sale, and a current or past registration certificate showing VIN.

Engine number should match paperwork. Also, our engine number approval date is June 15, 1929, date on firewall is June 18, 1929. This could all help with DMV person who has questions.

I don’t know if I have helped you. As mentioned earlier, if not a point car, I think you just need to have an engine number that can be read and makes sense to the car it’s on. With back up paperwork. Enjoy.
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In Kentucky, a vehicle must pass a sheriff’s VIN inspection before a title can be issued.

I have the original title, last issued in 1964 in the state of West Virginia with the original serial number. The motor was replaced during restoration between 1964-67.

FWIW, I have the original motor sitting in my shed. It matches the serial number on the title, though it’d take an archaeologist to read it.

The number on the running engine that’s inside the car has about two legible digits, which is just enough to know it doesn’t match the title.

Without a matching number INSIDE the car, Kentucky is inclined to issue a salvage title. No thanks.

Since I have two engines, one original, one replacement — neither of which have legible serial numbers — but I need matching numbers to obtain a title ... here I am, innocently inquiring about stamp sizes for no particular reason. [emoji56]




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If it was my car, I would make sure numbers matched. Engine number should match paperwork.

You, I don’t believe can get in trouble. You have original engine with the correct P/N VIN.

Have you confirmed frame number? Just a question.

I believe in killing them with paperwork. You can’t question confirming documentation.
 
WHN said:
If it was my car, I would make sure numbers matched. Engine number should match paperwork.

You, I don’t believe can get in trouble. You have original engine with the correct P/N VIN.

Have you confirmed frame number? Just a question.

I believe in killing them with paperwork. You can’t question confirming documentation.
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Yep, that’s the plan. It will all match when I arrive at the inspection station.

I haven’t verified the frame number. I imagine it’s also not legible and that’s a lot of work for potentially nothing. Perhaps one day I’ll find out. In any case, the frame WILL match the engine number on that day.




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Mike V. Florida said:
Did the car have a title when you bought it? If yes then there is no reason to look at it. Same with a modern car, if it has a title then only paperwork needs to be done.
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Mike, I guess you have never had dealings with the Green Cove Springs Tax office in Fla.. I had it all, Title, old Tags & Reg. Still had to wait for a look see & go back again.. And when they looked at my 1928 A She was lost, would not have know an A engine from a SBC. and said looks fine signed papers and left..
 
When you do stamp the numbers use a relatively stout hammer and don't be a sissy about giving them a good thump. It's very difficult to get a stamp set just right for a second try to correct a number that isn't stamped all the way the first time.
 
1crosscut said:
When you do stamp the numbers use a relatively stout hammer and don't be a sissy about giving them a good thump. It's very difficult to get a stamp set just right for a second try to correct a number that isn't stamped all the way the first time.
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I agree, But, & its a big BUT, Don't stamp it to close to the top of the block, it will swell the metal and can cause a head gasket leak !!. I have seen this done several times..After stamping run a fine file over the top edge of the block (if possible) to make sure it has not lifted any..
 
I got my engine stamp set from a guy that listed them here on the Swap Meet. It has all the different fonts plus the star.
 
Despite the fact that altering any manufacturers serial number is a crime and can case you to lose your vehicle and possibly go to prison.
 
Chris Haynes said:
Despite the fact that altering any manufacturers serial number is a crime and can case you to lose your vehicle and possibly go to prison.
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That is sort of what I was trying to say in Post #6. I like your phrasing better.

GOOGLE "is it illegal to tamper with a VIN". It is sort of like playing the lottery except if you win you lose. I don't play the lottery.

Charlie Stephens
 
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