Separating the torque tube

Heard

Heard

Well-known member
OK. I got the spring apart. Now how do I separate the torque tube? It is pinned. I briefly tried to drive out the pin but it looks like I may need to grind off the head. So which is the head? One end is flat on the end and protrudes somewhat. The other end is rounded and is close to being flush with the collar. Here is what is looks like. You can actually see both ends since there are two of the pins. So if I'm working on the one on the left, how do I get it out?

2014-02-10172123_zps8ceda627.jpg
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Thanks again. You guys are keeping me straight!!
 
The rounded end is the head. Looks like the other end may be less grinding to then pound it out toward the head.
 
I have used a center punch, then a drill... Use 3/16, then 1/4". It's 1/4" pin -if I remember correctly. It's riveted on one end, drill enough, just through the head, so as to use a punch to drive it out.

Karl
 
Henry is correct, don't cut into the collar, though. Best to use new pins for reassembly and stake them down good.

I've asked this before, but without an answer: Do you know the ratio you have now? You don't have to dismantle it to find out if you already have the 3.54 you want to put in.
 
I posted something about this a while back, but the new pins are JUNK I have had two break and have had two customers who had them break, Grind off the head, use a air hammer if you have one to drive the old one out. I always reassemble with grade 8 bolts, and cut the threads off even with the nuts, then tack weld the nut and head of the bolt to the sleeve. Below is the post where we had a car in where the original came loose.
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109667
 
ford38v8 said:
Henry is correct, don't cut into the collar, though. Best to use new pins for reassembly and stake them down good.

I've asked this before, but without an answer: Do you know the ratio you have now? You don't have to dismantle it to find out if you already have the 3.54 you want to put in.
Click to expand...

Alan, I do remember you asking that. And damn it, I'm going to find out! Maybe. Seriously. I don't know but if there are 3.54 gears in there now, I have bigger issues than just the rear axle as far as making this any sort of driver. In addition, there are other reasons to get this rear end in proper working order starting with the issue I have with one axle measuring .048 larger than the other on the major thread diameter. The seals are also shot at least on the right shaft.

Really, I am curious about the ratio. I think I'll try to determine that tomorrow.
 
Karl Wolf said:
I have used a center punch, then a drill... Use 3/16, then 1/4". It's 1/4" pin -if I remember correctly. It's riveted on one end, drill enough, just through the head, so as to use a punch to drive it out.

Karl
Click to expand...

Yep.

Mart posted a way to see what rear you have. They get changed and the banjo markings you have are not always the gear sets. Basically: Rotation of engine 1:1 to wheel rotation. Pm him on the link as i dont have it anymore.

Pin it or bolt it back together. Pinning perfered in my thinking.
 
The one on the left is the head of the pin. It also has a slight countersink shape where it enters the coupler.
 
Yep henry that is basically the same way that gm posted as marts. Mart did it with the engine in i think, 3rd gear (1:1)... Or not. Same thing though and i does not matter either way.
 
Heard, the six pictures posted on your spring removal thread are just a few of the many pictures I took while rebuilding that '35 rear, thinking I might use them some day to do a tech article post on this whole rear rebuild thing. I can email some of those pictures to you if you pm me your email address.
When I removed the driveshaft to pinion rivets/pins, I did it like Karl Wolf described. No grinding necessary. Just some drilling and driving will bring them out. You should also use support under that coupling when you drive those pins out otherwise you could do some damage to other components like the pinion, bearings or races.
 
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JM 35 Sedan said:
Heard, the six pictures posted on your spring removal thread are just a few of the many pictures I took while rebuilding that '35 rear, thinking I might use them some day to do a tech article post on this whole rear rebuild thing. I can email some of those pictures to you if you pm me your email address.
When I removed the driveshaft to pinion rivet I did it like Karl Wolf described. No grinding necessary. Just some drilling and driving will bring them out. You should also use support under that coupling when you drive those pins out otherwise you could do some damage to other components like the pinion, bearings or races.
Click to expand...

Here is a link to the banjo rebuild link from the hamb banjo group.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=20531

Looking for a very nice thread that shows a step by on replacing all bearings and
Setting pinion. I will find it as i have read it a few times. Im on my ipad now and dont have it bookmarked on this one.

Looks like the pictures are down... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=462776&highlight=rebuild+rear+end+banjo
 
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I don't know what some of you guys are fussin about. I removed both pins this arvo on a '41 - '48 rear end. I used a flap disc, lightly sanded the pins down until smooth with the coupler, then center punched the center and gave it a bit of a tap.. then sanded the other side smooth and tapped it with a decent sized hammer and both pins drove right out. Both sides had a small countersink in them.

Whole job probably took about half an hour at the most.
 
Those pins come out reasonably easily if the splines are not worn so the pin doesn't become deformed. With worn splines the pins must bend as they begin carrying the load before the splines make contact. This is also why the pins break(worn splines) and usually does not indicate the pin material is unsatisfactory. To use worn splines without experiencing pin shearing the pins can be "necked down" over the distance of the pinion shaft diameter so the splines take the load without bending the pin back and forth in service. No, this is not a perfect situation but, if we always waited for everything to be "perfect" most of our old cars would not be on the road.
 
When I remove about any pin or rivet I use a round 1/4"-or smaller- carbide bur in a die grinder. I grind a depression on the end. If you don't get it centered you can move the bur and grind some more. This gives an automatic center for a drill or punch. This works for removing the head or the peened end.

John
 
Just thought I'd follow up on this thread in case anyone needs this info. Thanks to some great advice, I ended up just center punching the protruding end of the pin. Then I drilled it out about 1/4" deep or so. Just enough to get it below the surface of the collar. I started with a small bit and increased it a couple of times until I got close to the outside diameter of the pin. I was careful not to drill into any of the collar.

Then I just supported the collar with a jack. A couple of whacks with a drift and out it came. No big deal thanks to all the knowledge on the Barn. :)
 
JWL said:
Those pins come out reasonably easily if the splines are not worn so the pin doesn't become deformed. With worn splines the pins must bend as they begin carrying the load before the splines make contact. This is also why the pins break(worn splines) and usually does not indicate the pin material is unsatisfactory. To use worn splines without experiencing pin shearing the pins can be "necked down" over the distance of the pinion shaft diameter so the splines take the load without bending the pin back and forth in service. No, this is not a perfect situation but, if we always waited for everything to be "perfect" most of our old cars would not be on the road.
Click to expand...

I think this might be an illustration of what JWL is talking about. I think these pins of mine were worn so much by spline slop that they wore clear through, came clear out and got ground up by the pinion nut lock ring as shown.

IMG_4018.jpg


IMG_4014.jpg
 
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