Sell engine or fix?

C

captain j

Member
I have done a lot of work to my 31 coupe. I have oil coming out of the rear Babbitt bearing. (As far as I can tell). I replaced the paper gasket between engine block and flywheel housing. I took off the Babbitt bottom cap and removed shims. It's seemed to greatly reduce the amount of oil coming out of that area. I took it for a spin to the corner and back and it seemed to be dripping more than when just sitting and idling and revving the engine. I don't know if I should just sell the engine and put a ford v8 in it? Or if anyone local possible would be able to fix it. Either way it's going to cost me money. I'd like to keep the engine because it runs great, I just can't deal with the leaking oil. I have the inspection plate off so I can see the oil running down from the rear of the Babbitt. I also just put modern valves and valve seats in it. It has a centrifugal advance distributer, it's 12 volts, new 2blade fan, belt. Etc. it's also mated up to a t5 with the conversion kit.
If someone makes me a decent offer on this setup. I may just sell it and they can have the Babbitt fixed or upgraded to rear main seal.
What do you guys think? Fix it or sell it? Or maybe some guidance as to who it where to take it to to have it fixed?
Thanks josh
 
$500 delivered to CA, There must be someone that can help you close by , pull it out & fix it , Find out whats wrong like rear drain pipe, clearances, It may be a simple fix, Don,t give up .
 
I don't think you'll save any money by getting rid of it and putting in a V8. That move would require a lot of modifications. What is the condition of the engine besides the oil leak? If you just need new babbitt that doesn't cost much, relatively. Where are you located?
 
I'm in mount holly nj, 08060. South Jersey. I've already pulled the engine once. Ill do it again if I know it "Would" get fixed. I don't want to pull it and put it back together for a "possible" fix.
 
I always heard that a blocked oil filler cap increases crankcase pressure and this pressure causes the rear main to leak. If there's no thunder coming from the back of the engine, I would look for other issues causing it.
Terry
 
The problem my be to much end play in the crankshaft. You do not want much more than .006 end play. If it is the crank thrust it can be fixed with out taking the engine out.
 
1. Oil filler/ crankcase breather fill tube currently has the cap off so I know it's not causing pressure buildup or the problem.
2. The oil return tube on the bottom of the Babbitt cap is clear of any blockage.
3. I would do whatever work I could do. Any sort of machining I could not do.
4. I don't really know how to check "thrush" ??? I do have a magnetic base dial indicator.
 
I tink they meant "thrust."

You can check this. Mount your magnetic dial at the front pulley. Then push the flywheel one way via the rear access hole (in front of the gearshift) and back the other way using the moon shaped cover on the front of the flywheel housing.

Prybars work for this. I'm kind of partial to a porta-power, the one with "fingers" since it's a wimp and I'm less likely to break something.

Your dial indicator will tell you when you've pushed enough.

Good luck. Rear main leak can be very disappointing.

Joe K
 
If it turns iout that you need a rear main poured, Try this guy; Hercules Welding, 5 st. , Palmyra. NJ. It's just down 295 or 130. It's right off 73. He's all set up to do all types of engines.
Terry
 
Thanks Terry, I called the place in palmayra nj. I think I'm going to pull the engine and have it fixed. I want to keep the original engine. I already have to much money invested in the engine and drivetrain to start all over. Plus I like to keep the car as original as possible with only safe upgrades.
 
captain j said:
Thanks Terry, I called the place in palmayra nj. I think I'm going to pull the engine and have it fixed. I want to keep the original.
Click to expand...

So what have you found that was needing fixed? was it leaking with proper clearances and thrust? Sometime an improper or improperly placed shim pack can allow a leak. What clearance did you set the mains?
 
I don't know what the clearances are I have no shims in the Babbitt left. I'm kinda just leaning towards a rebuild then I know everything will just get fixed.
 
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