Self sealing pan gaskets

C

C1Nelson

Member
I bought new oil pan cork gaskets from Snyder’s. Part #A-6781-C

On the front of the package there is a label that says they are Self Sealing.

Use of any additional sealer will damage the gaskets.

The motor is in the car and I was going to use permatex, contact cement etc. to glue the gasket to the bottom of the motor while I install the pan.

Has anybody used these gaskets while the motor is in the car? How did you do it? I saw an article about installing a Leakless Pan Gasket written by Frank Rosin in Washington and was going to use his method. But now I don’t know if I can?

Thanks guys. I appreciate your help.
 
I did change them with the motor in the car.


First I cleaned the sealing surfaces thoroughly, absolutely free of oil or dirt.
Then I used super glue (the gel type) in 3 or 4 small spots to hold the gasket to the block, use only enough for the gasket to hold to the block.
With every gasket in place, I put the oil pan on my chest while laying under the car and inserted the first 2 bolts. Doublecheck that the oil pump is in place!
After that it was just putting all the bolts in and torquing them properly.
I did not use any kind of sealer, only the cork gaskets.



Absolutely leak free since.
 
I've fitted one of those gaskets when the engine was in the car - What a PITA! Never again. It seems to be working well enough but so did the cork gaskets I used to use and they were much easier to fit
 
I have used both the cork and thick paper type gaskets. The paper works the best. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Take 2 or 3 scrap screws that are not fully threaded and cut the heads off. Install one on each side of the block bolt pattern and use them as guide pins to make aligning the pan to the block very simple. Place the gasket on the pan surface instead of the block. A thin layer of Permatex can be used. Do not over tightened the pan screws and try to keep the torque uniform. Using this process makes installation a snap especially when working on your back.
 
I neat trick for holding any gasket in place prior to assembly is to use sewing thread. Tie off the gasket through the bolt holes in several places. The thread can just be left in place as the bolts are inserted and tightened. Or if you are really fussy, extract the thread before tightening home.
Joe B
 
I believe we're missing the point of the original post ................ that being the package says any form of sealant can have a negative effect on the gasket.

Has anyone had a problem with using sealant on the latest style pan gasket from Snyders' that claim to be "Self Sealing"?????????
 
What is it that makes it self sealing?The cork is somewhat that way until it gets soaked with oil .
 
I think some respondents are not familiar with the new gasket being discussed. It's not a true cork gasket. Unlike the real cork gaskets, the new ones are a new material. They will take more torque without squishing out. Sealers will defeat how well the new material sticks in place laterally.
I was very impressed with the new material. No leaks. I suggest you use one of the above techniques then follow the no sealer instructions.
 
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Thank you for your reply I wasn’t aware of the new material. As I mentioned in my post the cork did work well until it got soaked with oil then would sort of seep out ,like a sponge ,hopefully the new material is resistant to this . The tieing the gasket with strings must go back a long time it was one of the first things an “old timer”showed me years ago.
 
I think the manufacturers of these cork composition gaskets are concerned that any added sealant will only add to the thickness overall of an already thick gasket. They aren't quite 1/8-inch but look to be around 3/32". This affects how much the front rope seal can be trimmed since they don't become a part of that interface.

I used Three bond 1211 sealant on the pan rail only and I only put on enough to just coat the surface. This held the gasket in place so I could put the rear composite seal strip in place and put the pan on. I tightened the pan snug with a 1/4" drive ratchet. If I put an inch pound torque wrench on it, it would be around 90 in/ lbs. It's been holding its mud so far. I also used the Felpro plastic studs to hold the pan.

If a person uses sealant, the pan has to be completely installed before the sealant cures. I use 1211 on aircraft engine cases and helicopter transmissions and it works better than any other type I've ever used for these type applications.
 
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